I've got an 86 300SDL and it's time to replace the oil lines to the oil radiator/cooler. I searched but didn't find an answer yet so here she be. On the lower hose I cut the nut off that resides on the end of the hose but I slightly cut into the male threads coming out of the cooler. Can that whole male fitting and nut be removed out of the oil cooler radiator or is it welded in? Thanks.

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Tony
(Actually, a member since 2000)

Not an expert, but if it's got a nut on it, it's probably not welded in.

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

I just came back to this because I just found (of course, I find the answer now! ) one post where it states the fittings on the cooler are permanent. I guess it's replacement nipples time.

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Tony
(Actually, a member since 2000)

One would think, but I've seen nuts welded onto housings before.

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Tony
(Actually, a member since 2000)

In that case, buy a new one. Before your put it in, see if you can unscrew the fitting from the old one (you're going to toss it anyway) just to double check.

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

Cheap @ the Dealers

'Requires cutting off the old (FUBAR) nipples and drilling out the Aluminum
opening for the Replacements.
'Allegedly, 'hardest part is cleaning out/vacuuming "Swarf" from the drilling.

Link to pictures:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/jdr01-albums-oil-cooler-nipple-rapair.html

Link to ONE of the repairers format:
Oil Cooler Repaired

Keyword search: "screwed,nipples":http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=4546697

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Thanks guys. I'm getting the replacement nipples from Ray Catena in Edison. Ready?........$11/each! I called my usual suppliers but nobody could find the part #915013013002. I called a few Mercedes dealers but they all quoted me $11/each. The tap is $30 at Grainger. It's still better than $300 for a new cooler.

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Tony
(Actually, a member since 2000)

For those living in/near central New Jersey I found Dewitt Brothers Tool Company in Kenilworth has the 18mmx1.50 tapered tap for $12 and the 21/32" drill bit for $9. Since we're tapping aluminum I went with a 41/64" bit since the aluminum will flex slightly and be a tighter fit than using the 21/32" bit.

BTW, I've only seen one or two posts referencing the rings/washers "007603-018101 Ring, General, Metal". These appear to be 18mm asbestos filled copper rings. Are these rings really needed?

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Tony
(Actually, a member since 2000)

If you have only slightly cut into the male threads and have not compromised the bevel of where the new hose end seats into the end of the oil cooler port, IMO there is no need to do anything but put your new lines on and enjoy.

When I replace the lines, I cut across the nuts and spread them out with a screwdriver to break any corrosion between the steel nut and the alloy port. Inevitably, I slightly cut into the male port thread, but as long as I dont ruin the sealing bevel surface, the line won't leak or fail .

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Agreed.

I agree guys, but now that I have all the tools and the parts are coming tomorrow I'll pro'lly install the new nipples anyway. We'll see.

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Tony
(Actually, a member since 2000)

I can only offer the sage words of advice given by the immortal Olive Oyl (Popeye's main squeeze) in song -"Leave well enough alone"

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Well put

Pick your fights

OSH Hardware has the tap for around $13 and since OSH is connected with Sears Sears may have it. It is the reduced shank Drill that cost a if you buy it locally.

The repair Nipples are the same Nipples that are on the Oil Filter Housing; that is where the Oil Cooler Hose Tubings attach. You can go to the Junk Yard and take some off.

If the hole happens not to drill and tap out straight the metal Crush Washers that come with the Repair Nipples will not seal. You might consider the use Loctite or JB Weld on the Nipple threads that screw into the Oil Cooler to make sure it does not leak.
I favor the JB Weld.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

OK, big dilemma here. I got the replacement nipples from Ray Catena using part#915013-013002 and got them installed into my oil cooler. The hoses I got from my local auto parts store have the part # 6031800430 which equate to W0133-1715552 which is the correct part listed at Fastlane. The nuts on the end of the hoses I got are A LOT bigger than the nipples on the cooler. Just for the record, I did put the smaller diameter fitting into the radiator. Am I missing something here?

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Tony
(Actually, a member since 2000)