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#1
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Drag Link Recommendations?
Looks like I need a replacement Drag Link (Center Tie Rod Assembly) for my 300D 124.
I see I can get a Uro part for $27, or I can get a Lemfoerder built one for $61. Is the Uro good , is it made in China? Is the Lemfoerder worth the extra cost? Where are they made? The link looks easy enough to get to and replace. Are there any tricks I need to know? I am assuming I will need realignment once the new part is installed. Thanks !
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
#2
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Get the Lemfoerder brand, they last longer than any other aftermarket brand.
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi |
#3
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Note there are early and late 124 steering components. Definitely the drag link, pitman arm and idler arm are different. Not sure about the tie rods. 93 is late.
Sixto 87 300D |
#4
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Quote:
You are correct. The 1985 Drag Link is different. It looks like this:
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
#5
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I have used a lot of Uro parts and the packages they come in are not marked as to where they are made.
I went to the Uro website and all they said is there stuff is made everywhere. So, you can assume there stuff is made somewhere in the far East. I have not had any of the Uro products on my car for longer than 2 years and I am a low milage driver. So, I can not answer as to how long they would last. However, the outward appearance of the part is good.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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I replaced my draglink with a Uro brand. It was in stock, and the Lemforder would take 2 days to get here. Needed the car on the road. Also replaced the steering shock with a high-quality brand. Mine has worked fine so far. I wouldn't worry too much about using a Uro draglink or tie-rods. Not sure I would use them for a balljoint. I have used Meyle brand parts for strut mounts and engine mounts. Their website states that they have "uprated" these parts with thicker and better materials to correct original design flaws which led to early failure. They even include cross sectional drawings to show their improvements. Which sold me. Some people criticize Meyle parts as being substandard, they are a little cheaper in some cases. Time will tell.
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#7
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I had to replace the drag link also. The part I got was a MOOG. I've used MOOG parts on other vehicles I had, and they lasted a good long time.
I paid $27 for the MOOG part.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Last edited by rrgrassi; 09-01-2009 at 02:40 PM. |
#8
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I have a URO drag link installed for a past few years and close to 30,000 miles. So far it is holding up well. It's the only Non-German made part in the suspension right now.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#9
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So...my new drag link came the day after I ordered it. That was fast.
There are no cotter pins on other means to lock the nuts. Should I use LocTite and what is the torque specification for the nuts?
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
#10
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One would hope that the nuts furnished were of the self-locking variety.
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#11
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They look like normal nuts too me.
If you have replaced one before, does the old one pop out pretty easily, or do you advise me to get a ball joint tool of some kind? I already have one of the pickle fork varieties. Maybe that would work.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
#12
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
#13
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Quote:
the upper thread is closer in pitch than the rest of them, so it pinches tight when you torque down the nut.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#14
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That's good to know.Thanks.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
#15
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The MB manual says to check alignment after doing a tie rod replacement. That's OK.
But, the MB manual doesn't say anything about checking alignment when replacing the drag link. Odd, isn't this required after installing a new drag link?
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
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