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  #1  
Old 11-10-2009, 12:57 AM
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Is there a difference in motor mounts?

Aside from those made in China, which everybody says are junk, is there a better brand to get?

I once drove a 300d, W124, that was totally, totally, completely motionless at idle. I'm sure there were several factors attributing to that, but motor mounts would surely be an important part of the mix.

Someone said to get fluid filled motor mounts vs. all rubber. I don't know.

I've heard a few different brand names; Phoenix, Corteco, and Hamburg Technic. Any real difference in these?

Thanks,

jeff 1991 300d, 141k

.... updated now that the job is done..... I went with the Corteco. I thought no sense in saving $40 or so on a set, and not enjoy the car as vibration free as possible. The Corteco's are the OEM replacements.

Last edited by jbach36; 11-16-2009 at 07:42 PM. Reason: To post the conclusion
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  #2  
Old 11-10-2009, 01:38 AM
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A lot of folks say go with the OE parts - but there could be multiple suppliers there. Seems that people have had good luck with Lemfoerder. Available manufacturers likely vary by model though - I dunno.

Honestly, I cheaped out on the replacements for my 240D - perhaps I will pay the price and have to replace them in a year or two. But, really, anything is much better than nothing - which is what I had for mounts when I bought the car.

There was a post once were someone suggested that often times the left and right mounts are sold as identical, but in reality the OE versions - although identical strucutrally - had different shore rating for the rubber. I don't really know anything more about that - or to which models it might apply. I suspect that would be more an issue that arises from a retailer trying to attract customers by selling them both at the same low price. So, if they look identical but you see that one side is more expensive than the other - you might suspect this. ONe way to investigate that would be to looking for part numbers and/or call the dealer to see what they say.
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'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
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  #3  
Old 11-10-2009, 08:54 AM
85 DSEL's Avatar
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Just had mine replaced on the W124 by my indy shop. He showed me the old ones (only 75K mi on them) and they were "shot" according to him. Said they are fluid filled and when he shook it you could easily hear the fluid sloshing around. Said you shouldn't be able to hear it slosh THAT much.

Can tell a difference in the smoothness at idle especially. I didn't realize they were on the 'brink'...

(Did not ask for brand though. From some thing I had done there a while back on the W123, they got the part(s) from the local dealership so I guess they are some OEM.)
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-----------------------------
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Last edited by 85 DSEL; 11-10-2009 at 09:10 AM.
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  #4  
Old 11-10-2009, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85 DSEL View Post
Just had mine replaced on the W124 by my indy shop. He showed me the old ones (only 75K mi on them) and they were "shot" according to him. Said they are fluid filled and when he shook it you could easily hear the fluid sloshing around. Said you shouldn't be able to hear it slosh THAT much.

Can tell a difference in the smoothness at idle especially. I didn't realize they were on the 'brink'...
I'm thinking of doing the same. How many hours labor did your indy charge you?
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  #5  
Old 11-10-2009, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elchivito View Post
I'm thinking of doing the same. How many hours labor did your indy charge you?

Changing motor mounts isn't that bad of a DIY job if you have the tools (most importantly the hex head sockets) and safety equipment (ramps or jack stands and wheel chocks). You can find info on the procedure in the DIY section if you are interested.
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  #6  
Old 11-10-2009, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elchivito View Post
I'm thinking of doing the same. How many hours labor did your indy charge you?

Let me check......
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-----------------------------
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  #7  
Old 11-10-2009, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankowner View Post
There was a post once were someone suggested that often times the left and right mounts are sold as identical, but in reality the OE versions - although identical strucutrally - had different shore rating for the rubber. I don't really know anything more about that - or to which models it might apply. I suspect that would be more an issue that arises from a retailer trying to attract customers by selling them both at the same low price. So, if they look identical but you see that one side is more expensive than the other - you might suspect this. ONe way to investigate that would be to looking for part numbers and/or call the dealer to see what they say.
Here is said thread -
Engine Mount Part Question

See the file I uploaded a screenshot of procedure 22-221 the 617 FSM in that thread. It gives the part #'s for the mounts to be used (left and right) with different chassis.


So you have a '91 300D? Is that a 603.XXX? If I were you I'd either call the dealer like tankowner recommends, or track down the analogous FSM procedure for your engine. I've done motor mounts on 300SD and it's not so bad, but I'm not sure if it's any harder with a 124 on account of the more cramped engine bay.
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  #8  
Old 11-10-2009, 03:35 PM
C Sean Watts's Avatar
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I can't say which is BEST

but I will tell you what to AVOID....anything made by Uro Parts (umlaut U.) I think they are made in Czech Rep. or somewhere in Eastern Europe. They do not last.
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  #9  
Old 11-10-2009, 03:49 PM
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Despite the name, I think Uro is made even farther east...like the PRC.

Rick
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  #10  
Old 11-10-2009, 03:51 PM
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I also can't say what you should buy, but would recommend AGAINST meyle. I had a new pair of those fail on me in 6 months.
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  #11  
Old 11-10-2009, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
Despite the name, I think Uro is made even farther east...like the PRC.

Rick
When I got them, they were marked "Made in EU"

However, with the amount of counterfeit items (various Bosch parts) the Chinese are exporting I would not be surprised.
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2009, 06:05 PM
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Related question: What's the difference between motor mounts for a 79 300D versus an 84 300D?

I assumed they were the same (and put a pair of motor mounts I purchased for the 79 300D into the 84), but Fastlane lists different parts for the different years.
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2009, 03:50 AM
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W124 Motor Mounts

'Get the OE (Factory) mounts ,you'll not be sorry.
[A little More Money,but they last twice as long]

Uro's goods are produced in the "Worker's Paradise" [No, not north Korea]
of The PRC as mentioned earlier.
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2009, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Sean Watts View Post
When I got them, they were marked "Made in EU"

However, with the amount of counterfeit items (various Bosch parts) the Chinese are exporting I would not be surprised.
I could not find any country marked on the packages or parts of any of my Euro parts.
All Rubber Mounts, Radiator and over Flow Tank Hoses that I replaced are Euro as well as my complete front suspension kit.
I guess time will tell if they hold up.
To be honest I am concerned that I could buy all the top quality parts I want and have something like my Vacuum Pump fall apart and destroy my Engine or my iffy Transmission finally stop working and my top dollar parts ending up in the Junk Yard.

While it could be poor quality Motor Mounts when I read about new mounts lasting 6 months in the back of my head I am wondering if the Poster fixed the other things that would tame the Engine Shaking. Even the best Motor Mounts were not made to tame an abnormally running Engine.
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  #15  
Old 11-11-2009, 12:31 PM
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The 60x series of engines use a fluid-filled "pneumatic" engine mount while the 61x engines used a solid rubber mount and additionally have an engine damper. The pneumatic mounts go flat after 100,000 miles or so. Replacement on an in-line engine is not difficult; I did the mounts on my '96 (OM 606) and it was quite painless. Replacement on a V-8 would be more work, I would think.

Flat motor mounts on a 60x engine can be hazardous because the engine sinks half an inch or more when the mounts collapse and this puts pressure on other parts of the engine.

Jeremy
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