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  #16  
Old 11-26-2009, 02:53 AM
compress ignite's Avatar
Drone aspiring to Serfdom
 
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Priming (The "Allegedly" self priming pumps)

Moeller # 34690-10 inline primer bulb (Moeller says it's Bio"D" impervious)
'Put it in the fuel line between the Hard Metal Fuel Line [from the Tank] and
the Primary Filter.

1.'Change Primary and Secondary.(I still fill the Secondary with CLEAN Diesel)
2.Squeeze Moeller Primer Bulb 10-15 times (Until Hard)
3.Glow and Start.

Attached Thumbnails
Proper fuel filter replacement procedure on OEM603-screenhunter_05-nov.-26-02.54.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 11-26-2009, 10:57 PM
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Location: Sonoma Wine Country
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Fuel filter installation

As Brian said, getting a secondary filter into place when it's full of fuel is difficult without spilling. I used the "wedge" technique on the '96 E300D today and had no problem starting the engine. The same technique should work on other 60x engines. The 61x engines don't have the access problem so it's a lot easier to pre-fill the secondary filter and hold it in place while tightening the central bolt.

First, I removed the primary filter. After a year and 8,400 miles it was still clean (265,000 miles on the original engine). I moved the existing Viton o-ring (I use biodiesel) to the new filter and installed it.

Next, I removed the secondary filter and drained it into a container. The filter holds less than a pint of fuel; I'm sure there was still some left inside, soaked into the filter paper, but I didn't want to wait a week for it all to drip out. Since the fuel was clean, I planned to re-use it in the new filter.

I put the new, dry filter in place and loosely screwed in the center bolt to hold it in place. With the filter properly located, I used a couple of pieces of wood to wedge the filter up against the housing. This allowed me to remove the central bolt and insert a funnel.

Now I was able to pour the fuel that I'd drained from the old filter into the new one. I needed a few milliliters of extra fuel to fill the filter all the way to the top. To be on the safe side, I put a paper coffee filter in the funnel (not shown in the picture).

Once the secondary filter was full, I removed the funnel, replaced the central bolt, and buttoned everything up. The engine started immediately and I gave it a little extra throttle until I was sure it wasn't going to stall on me.

I plan to cut the secondary filter open with my Dremel tool so I can see what it looks like inside. I'll post a fifth picture when I get that done.

Jeremy
Attached Thumbnails
Proper fuel filter replacement procedure on OEM603-filter_6740.jpg   Proper fuel filter replacement procedure on OEM603-filter_6743.jpg   Proper fuel filter replacement procedure on OEM603-filter_6741.jpg   Proper fuel filter replacement procedure on OEM603-filter_6742.jpg  
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Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
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  #18  
Old 11-26-2009, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
... Once the secondary filter was full, I removed the funnel, replaced the central bolt, and buttoned everything up.
That last photo that you have there, Jeremy - that's basically what I did and it worked very well.

I did cut my old filter open - it was dirty as all get out - but not as bad as I had envisioned after seeing the tank.. It should run better now with clean tank, new filters and fresh fuel.
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  #19  
Old 11-27-2009, 07:12 PM
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Fuel filter cut open, looks new

Here is the continuation of my earlier post. Since I have two new pictures, I put them in a new post.

I cut my used fuel filter open today. The filter came from our 1996 E300D (W210, OM606NA, 265000 miles on car, 1 year and 8400 miles on the filter, mostly B20 biodiesel with a little D2 and a little B100 thrown in).

I used a cutting wheel and my Dremel tool to cut through the casing of the filter. A large-size copper tubing cutter would have done a cleaner job but I don't own one big enough. In any case, the only thing in the filter was a little dust from the cutting wheel. As the photos show, the filter was in near-new condition and could easily have gone another year or more.

I would imagine that one could hire a lab to wash out and centrifuge a used fuel filter and no doubt find something but it certainly wouldn't be much by the looks of it. Anyone have such equipment at work and would like an after-hours project I can send the filter pieces.

All this really means, of course, is that I haven't found any dirty fuel vendors . . . yet.

YMMV.

Jeremy
Attached Thumbnails
Proper fuel filter replacement procedure on OEM603-filter_6756.jpg   Proper fuel filter replacement procedure on OEM603-filter_6758.jpg  
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #20  
Old 12-30-2009, 02:53 AM
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Be SURE to use only clean filtered fuel to fill the spin on filter or else use a fuel supplement right out of the can. Also, use a clear prefilter ; thus you can place a bright light next to it and see inside the filter to see if it needs changing. I change the spin on filter every 20000-25000 miles and have no problems. The prefilter stays mostly clean and I change it only every 50,000 miles, even though it might not need to be changed. I guess that I've been lucky to get clean fuel. But, it only takes one bad load of fuel to screw up the filters! This is on the 603 engine.
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Last edited by PaulH; 12-30-2009 at 03:07 AM.
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  #21  
Old 12-30-2009, 02:09 PM
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I am new to forum and have only had my w124 300d a few weeks.
Therefore I have not attempted any work on it yet.
Now my dodge for bleeding a fuel system such as this is to have some one put a rag wrapped hose in to the tank and blow down it to pressurise tank and force fuel through.
I suppose an old fuel cap drilled and fitted with a small bore pipe that ran to front of car so it was a one man operation would work well.
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  #22  
Old 03-05-2016, 09:29 AM
BIG H
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: provo, utah
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fuel filter additive

I AM REPLACING MY FUEL FILTERS ON MY 300SDL AND I HAVE HEARD ABOUT A 100 THINGS TO FILL THE CARTRIDGE FILTER WITH TO CLEAN INJECTORS. WHAT IS THE BEST? ANY IDEAS?
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  #23  
Old 03-05-2016, 11:04 AM
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I use ATF, only because it burns well (and quiet) and I can trust it to be filtered very very well. Just convenience. As far as cleaning, most of what is in that filter will be returned to the fuel tank and you will only inject what you poured into the filter for a very short time.

Diesel is probably the best, some use 2-stroke oil, but the key is filtered, filtered, filtered. If you fill only the outside, and don't get any into the center hole, you can use any diesel but the center goes directly to the IP, and I always spill some into the center. Besides that, I always keep a quart of ATF and a filter in the boot just in case I have a problem on the road, I guess I could fill the quart bottle with diesel.

The manual doesn't require that it is filled first, it will prime from cranking. Most of us would prefer to avoid that for wear on the starter and battery however.
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  #24  
Old 03-06-2016, 09:11 AM
BIG H
 
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Location: provo, utah
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fuel filter

THANK YOU. I ALSO HEARD THAT SEA FOAM WORKS WELL ALSO. BUT I THINK ATF IS WHAT I WILL GO WITH

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