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  #1  
Old 11-13-2009, 03:06 PM
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Recent Valve Adjustment

I finally got the valve adjustment I'd been wanting to take careof. I tried to do it myself, but there were some things oattached to my valve cover that weren't in the guide, and I didn't want to remove them and not be able to get them back on. So into the shop it went. It came out running much smoother and quieter, and the shift points are less harsh. I love it.

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  #2  
Old 11-13-2009, 04:47 PM
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Location: Treasure Coast, FL
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That is awesome. Still running smooth with all those miles.

The job looks daunting when you first look under the hood. But, it is actually very easy. If you are referring to the throttle linkage and bowden cable... It comes apart very easily with a large flat bladed screw driver.

Just take some digital pictures before you start, get a set of wrenches, take your time, print out a sheet/log for the adjustments and follow some kind of simple tutorial (next time).

This would have been a good time to break apart all the ball/sockets on the throttle linkage, blast them with brake clean and re-apply a nice coat of grease to the balls and sockets. Also, a good time to have someone get in the car, push the pedal to the floor and check to see if the IP is getting full throttle (hitting the Stop).
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2009, 05:06 PM
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No, it was all this plastic tubing that connected on one interconnector thing on top of the valve cover. EGR stuff I think. Miles are 271K now, too.
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Last edited by mattmacklind; 11-14-2009 at 03:33 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-13-2009, 05:16 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Glad you're happy. After disconnecting a few throttle linkages, remove the four bolts on top of the cam cover, lay the stuff out of the way, remove the cam cover, adjust valves, put everything back, done.
I have the egr system removed from mine, but all you'd need to do extra is unplug that big multiple plug at the black box and lay it out of the way also, that's what the shop did.
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  #5  
Old 11-13-2009, 05:45 PM
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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I just unbolt the whole throttle assembly (pop off a few of the ball sockets first) move it aside, remove cover, adjust valves, and put back together.

I did mine on my 300SD yesterday for the first time in 20k....only two valves were tight, #2 and #3 exhaust valves....the rest were still perfect. My engine is now even smoother.

Start to finish it took me maybe 35 mins tops. Its really easy once you've done it a few times.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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  #6  
Old 11-13-2009, 05:50 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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On the CD the bowden cable got in the way when re-installing the cam cover, at least for me and I didn't want to stretch or break anything, so I removed those four bolts.
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  #7  
Old 11-13-2009, 07:21 PM
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Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
On the CD the bowden cable got in the way when re-installing the cam cover, at least for me and I didn't want to stretch or break anything, so I removed those four bolts.
Indeed, its a good idea to detach it from the cover and set it aside. That is what I always do. Makes it easier to clean and re-gasket the cover too.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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