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  #1  
Old 11-18-2009, 12:24 AM
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OM603 head bolt sequence.

Bought these WIS DVD's on eBay. I've spent almost as much time trying to get them to load/run as it'll take me to R+R the head gasket! It worked once, and was freakin' AWESOME, but just once....

Anyhoo, going to replace the head gasket next week, and was wondering if anyone could post the diagrams for the head bolts? Both the sequence and the stages, por favor. I know you have to tighten them in four stages (15 Nm, 40Nm, 90 deg, wait ten min., 90 deg?? something along those lines). Too bad the old FSM CD doesn't really work with newer versions of Internet Explorer.

I have a laptop that my mom gave me and was hoping to load the WIS onto it, but it just hasn't worked out, for whatever reason. At some point I'll wipe the hard drive and install XP and nothing else on the machine. Then, maybe, it'll work. Probably won't have time to do that before next week, though.

Can you access the FSM's online anywhere these days? Wasn't so long ago you could....

Jay

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'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
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  #2  
Old 11-18-2009, 02:52 AM
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No need for the FSM just for head bolt sequence - should be on a little slip of paper in the gasket set.

Might want to check out the FSM for all the other parts of the job though .
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2009, 11:58 AM
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Cam.

Cam tower removal sequence, as well, Jeff? Remove 2,4,7 first?? Does the cam even have to come out? I looked through the R+R on the FSM and it looked totally straightforward. Did a dry run on the intake side yesterday when I replaced the glow plugs. That was fun! Hope I don't have to do it again for a while. Bought all the clips and rubbers for the injector hard lines, so I can just rip-and-tear at the few that are on the car, now. Do I really need to pull the radiator? I think I can get the chain tension rail pin out in the space that's there with the radiator in place...? I'll put something over the upper tank to protect it so's I don't smack it w/the head while it's dangling from the engine hoist. Where's a good spot to hook the hoist chain on the front of the head?

I have an exhaust leak between the two parts of the manifold. I'd like to make that go away while I'm at it. What parts will I need for that? I'm assuming I leave the exhaust manifold on until the head is off the car?

Many, many thanks!

Jay.
__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
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  #4  
Old 11-18-2009, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babyjames View Post
Cam tower removal sequence, as well, Jeff? Remove 2,4,7 first?? Does the cam even have to come out? I looked through the R+R on the FSM and it looked totally straightforward. Did a dry run on the intake side yesterday when I replaced the glow plugs. That was fun! Hope I don't have to do it again for a while. Bought all the clips and rubbers for the injector hard lines, so I can just rip-and-tear at the few that are on the car, now. Do I really need to pull the radiator? I think I can get the chain tension rail pin out in the space that's there with the radiator in place...? I'll put something over the upper tank to protect it so's I don't smack it w/the head while it's dangling from the engine hoist. Where's a good spot to hook the hoist chain on the front of the head?

I have an exhaust leak between the two parts of the manifold. I'd like to make that go away while I'm at it. What parts will I need for that? I'm assuming I leave the exhaust manifold on until the head is off the car?

Many, many thanks!

Jay.
Cam needs to come out because the caps cover head bolts.
You need a copy of the FSM - but the process is this for the cam -
TDC cylinder 1 and on the cam /marks , remove tensioner, tie up timing chain, remove cam gear.
Remove cam caps 1,5,6 first.
Remove cam caps 2,3,4 and 7 next - one turn (or less) per bolt on each cap.
Be careful - some cams are hollow, some are not - both break easily - ask me how I know.
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2009, 09:51 PM
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Just like wgilmore said, straight from the FSM - section 05-220 (for 603)

"Unscrew both hexagon bolts on camshaft bearing caps 1,5,6. Slacken both hexagon bolts on camshaft bearing caps 2, 3, 4, and 7 in increments of one turn respectively until counter pressure is reduced."

On my 602, the numbers were stamped on the bearing caps. Bearing caps are not interchangeable, so make sure to re-install in correct order. I changed the slackening increment to about 1/4 turn. Overkill, I know, but I didn't want to buy another cam.
__________________
327K on 1986 W201, 602.911, 722.414 2.5 190D ("The Red Baron")
139K on 1993 W124, 104.942, 722.433 2.8 300E ("Queen")

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/...0bb92d3c_m.jpg http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...g?t=1325284354

Do not worry about your difficulties in Mathematics. I can assure you mine are still greater.
- Albert Einstein

take a walk down memory lane...
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  #6  
Old 11-19-2009, 02:11 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 690
Groovy.

Should be fairly evident r.e. the position of the lobes, at least intuitive. I'm pretty methodical, probably overly so. Most of the other guys at the dealership were not nearly as careful... and yet they RARELY f***ed anything up. Go slow.

Jay.

__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
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