82 300 sd. 265K. History rather unknown. Car has started fine on our coldest mornings so far, low 30's or so. However, lots of grey smoke while idling. No noticeable smoke while driving. Drives good with plenty of power.

If plugged in it won't really start any easier but there is way, way less smoke.

I have visually inspected all the glow plugs, went so far as to pull the injectors to see them glowing because I was convinced at least one wasn't working because of the amount of smoke.

So I guess my question is if using the block heater should make that much difference in the amount of smoke and if so why?

One other thing I have noticed is that after it has started in the morning and is idling if I cut the wheel sharply while backing out of the driveway it will die. If I go straight back it doesn't die. Reason?

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1981 300TD - SOLD
1981 Euro 300TD 4 sp. parts car
1982 300 SD - SOLD
84 300 TD 4 sp n/a 241K - SOLD

Grey smoke is incomplete combustion due to a cold engine. Since the heater warms the block, combustion is better.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

thanks for the quick response.
So, since this one smokes a lot more than others I've had what can I conclude: more worn engine? low compression?

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1981 300TD - SOLD
1981 Euro 300TD 4 sp. parts car
1982 300 SD - SOLD
84 300 TD 4 sp n/a 241K - SOLD

Also check your injector pump timing. If it is off it will cause smoke with low cylinder temperatures. When were the glowplugs last serviced? They may be coated in carbon which will also cause them to fail. Is your battery in good shape? Low cranking speeds will lead to low initial combustion temperatures. It may be something to do with compression (is it hard to start?) but you should try to eliminate the small problems first.

Good luck!

At one point I pulled all the plugs to check them. They were not covered in carbon. Battery is new within the last few years. Would like to check the IP timing but am missing a few tools.

Car starts pretty easily but I haven't had it for an entire winter.

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1981 300TD - SOLD
1981 Euro 300TD 4 sp. parts car
1982 300 SD - SOLD
84 300 TD 4 sp n/a 241K - SOLD

"One other thing I have noticed is that after it has started in the morning and is idling if I cut the wheel sharply while backing out of the driveway it will die. If I go straight back it doesn't die. Reason? "

Low Compression

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

How, why?

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82 240D Manual 277K and still rolling!
02 Volvo S60 AWD For Sale

No one has ask yet when the last Valve Adjustment was done?

List of suspects:
Valves need adjustment
Valve Timing becoming late/retarded due to Valve Train Wear (Timing Chain Stretch)
Injectors need servicing
Compression not the best
Fuel Injection Pump needing retiming (If the Valve Timing is late and the Fuel Injection Pump has not be retimed the Fuel Injection Pump Timing will also be late.)

Wild Card- Piston Rings sticking due to Carbon Buildup caused by what some call Granny Driving or driving a long time with Injectors that need servicing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

[QUOTE=calebc3;2342281]82 300 sd. 265K. History rather unknown. Car has started fine on our coldest mornings so far, low 30's or so. However, lots of grey smoke while idling. No noticeable smoke while driving. Drives good with plenty of power.

If plugged in it won't really start any easier but there is way, way less smoke.

I have visually inspected all the glow plugs, went so far as to pull the injectors to see them glowing because I was convinced at least one wasn't working because of the amount of smoke.

So I guess my question is if using the block heater should make that much difference in the amount of smoke and if so why?

One other thing I have noticed is that after it has started in the morning and is idling if I cut the wheel sharply while backing out of the driveway it will die. If I go straight back it doesn't die. Reason?[/QUOTE]

I would try raising your idle speed to the high end of the allowable speed. The idle rpm should be on the Emission Sticker (I do not know if your model has a Tach or not).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Update - it desperately needed a valve adjustment. All were very, very tight. Started quicker, smoother and with way, way less smoke this morning and it is about as cold as it has been all year.

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1981 300TD - SOLD
1981 Euro 300TD 4 sp. parts car
1982 300 SD - SOLD
84 300 TD 4 sp n/a 241K - SOLD

"Nice, Quick + Easy Fix!"

'Has it also stopped shutting off when you turn the steering wheel?

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

ShawnT.W.
(We're/I'm not "Counting Coup" here)

1. Steering Pump LOADS the engine the most at the end of the system's Travel.
(I.E. "Up Against the Stops") 'Logical explanation for engine shutoff at the
end of steering travel is "Weak" engine.
2. Tight Valves = Low Compression (A "Technical" ...And a Win for the Owner!)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128