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  #16  
Old 11-26-2009, 01:42 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
It's behind the first aid kit door.
Thanks, found it and also found the hose to the vacuum reservoir under the storage liner on the floor.

Fortunately the fuel door diaphragm held vacuum.

I noticed two hoses running from the pulse damper near the oil filter. Anyone know which two circuits those lead too?

85 300TDT

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  #17  
Old 11-26-2009, 04:51 AM
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Has anyone tried this before?

I was thinking about leaking vacuum pipes the other day and I thought that applying that heat shrinking plastic that electricians use over electrical connectors might be a solution.

I'm talking about this sort of sleeving:-

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062662

Has anyone ever tried that before?

Good idea or bad idea?

Last edited by Stretch; 11-27-2009 at 04:03 AM. Reason: To bump it up the line again!
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  #18  
Old 03-17-2010, 07:43 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 162
How did you get the black plastic top off?

Wondering how you got the black plastic top off? I have the replacement bosch part (BO 3 340 522 025), but can't seem to yank the plastic off, as you've clearly done by the looks of the picture!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
You can glue the finger of a nitrile glove over it to seal the tear, but it doesn't last as long as the original diaphragm. Bosch sells replacement diaphragms. Someone will probably post where you can get them.

EDIT: Here's a pic of what I mean:
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  #19  
Old 03-17-2010, 07:53 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Anyone sell a replacement vacume connector package for w123s? Basically a kit with all new connectors for the vacume system. If not, someone should start. I would much rather buy a kit then have to piece it all together.
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  #20  
Old 03-17-2010, 11:35 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce.g.cameron View Post
Wondering how you got the black plastic top off? I have the replacement bosch part (BO 3 340 522 025), but can't seem to yank the plastic off, as you've clearly done by the looks of the picture!
The clip itself pulls upward like a lock. Once it unclips you can split the clip off of the metal plunger.

It may take a little more pulling then you think it may so don't be afriad to pull it off.
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  #21  
Old 03-18-2010, 12:20 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 97
Are these really worth repairing? Everytime I'm at a junkyard, I have the opportunity to pull like 40 of these. Some of them even hold vacuum .

Seriously, they will cost you a few bucks and you can get them out with a 10mm socket and some snips for the vacuum line. I bring my mightyvac and test them on the spot.
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  #22  
Old 03-18-2010, 10:04 AM
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It was worth repairing in my case since I don't have any junk yards near me with MBs. I'd have to drive at least an hour to get to the closest one.

That repair lasted about a year, but I ended up getting a new actuator. I think I'll order some replacement diaphragms from George Murphy if I need to fix a leak again.
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  #23  
Old 03-18-2010, 10:21 AM
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I have pulled several at PNP, all have been good. price good too, $1.99.
so far, no vacuum leaks since I last posted.

ARMY asked in post #17 about using heat shrink tubing. I don`t believe it will work, too stiff.

that Plastic Dip for tool handles might work.

Best thing, is to just replace it with a new one. the old one`s made it for 15 to 20 yrs or so. or just Micky Mouse it together and hope for the best.

Charlie

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