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Axle Shafts Reversible?
Hi all and thanks ahead of time!
I have a w201 and one of my CV joints is making noise. I plan to remove and rebuild it, or at least check it for lubrication and add lubrication. I've been told that I should SWAP SIDES of the half-shafts. That is, put the one on the drivers side onto the passenger side and visa versa. In this way the force is applied to a different, as yet unused portion of the CV joint. Does this sound reasonable to anyone or is it a bad idea? Also, what type/brand of lube/grease do you recommend? Thanks again!
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'87 190d TURBO 200k '84 190d 230k miles '85 190d 107k miles '88 190d 2.5 259k miles '85 BMW E23 220k miles '94 Chevy K3500 6.5L Turbo Diesel 232k miles "Diesel Noise -- The Sound of Freedom" |
#2
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bump
bump
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'87 190d TURBO 200k '84 190d 230k miles '85 190d 107k miles '88 190d 2.5 259k miles '85 BMW E23 220k miles '94 Chevy K3500 6.5L Turbo Diesel 232k miles "Diesel Noise -- The Sound of Freedom" |
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I've always heard to swap them in 100k intervals, for even wear. This is assuming they're in good shape, and not leaking or anything (you mentioned you were going to rebuild them).
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1989 300E 144K |
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Good practice to follow.
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If I'm going to spend the time/money required to remove them, I'm not about to reinstall used ones. The time to R&R them is worth more than the parts.
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#7
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Mercedes uses some sort of oil in the CV joints; most of the boot kits I have seen use grease. Rebuilding a CV joint is not something that I have heard to be a DIY job although just replacing the boot has been well documented here (use the search function).
If your CV joint is already making noise, just adding lubricant probably will be only a temporary measure. You can get along with a noisy joint for thousands of miles but eventually you will need a replacement. Most folks (including myself) replace the half-shafts with rebuilt units; supposedly new made-in-China axles have also been showing up. IMHO, only name-brand rebuilders such as CVJ in Denver can be trusted to do a good job. Some forum members have had good luck with cheapo rebuilds from discount auto parts stores but others have not been so fortunate, lifetime warranty notwithstanding. The time it takes to R&R is not worth the few dollars you save. Unless you are really strapped for cash, I advise replacing both axles at the same time, so that there is nothing to swap left-right. If you are just replacing the lubricant and fixing a leaky boot, you could do the swap but I really don't see the need. The only problem I've ever read involving Mercedes rear half-shafts is that the rubber boot cracks and splits open after 20 years or so. Then the lubricant leaks out, dirt gets in, and the joint is damaged. I have never read of a case where a CV joint failed due to anything else. (Doesn't mean it can't happen but would seem to be very rare and we have people on this forum with hundreds of thousands of miles on their cars.) Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
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Thanks for the info!
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__________________
'87 190d TURBO 200k '84 190d 230k miles '85 190d 107k miles '88 190d 2.5 259k miles '85 BMW E23 220k miles '94 Chevy K3500 6.5L Turbo Diesel 232k miles "Diesel Noise -- The Sound of Freedom" |
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