Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #46  
Old 12-17-2009, 05:56 PM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
Today I noticed that the radiator is seeping along the soldered section on top toward the middle. It's not bad, but could open up and start spraying with time. I cannot afford a recore or a new radiator at this time, so what can I do to get by for a little while? I am thinking JB Weld or the radiator repair kits that can be bought at the parts stores. I think I'll be fine for the usual drives to work, just no long trips for now. When I have the money I think I want to have it recored with the "new technology" and as thick as will fit. But, I may consider a new one if they are "new technology" and not too expensive.

I think I blew a valve cover gasket (that's right, valve cover gasket, not head gasket). The gasket is deformed, hardened, and split so now oil is leaking from it. At least it's leaking synthetic oil which seems to be cleaning the engine rather than gunking it up like conventional oil! I have a new gasket on the way along with spring washers and valve wrenches. I figure if I have the valve cover off I may as well adjust the valves while I'm at it since it has probably never been done since the rebuild. I will also check to make sure the head is properly torqued, because who knows if it was retorqued after the rebuild. I have a chance to buy a near NOS 1968 200D head as a spare for $150, and I would buy it if I wasn't so broke. The valve cover has a little corrosion on it which I will clean off with baking soda and vinegar (unless there is a better method). I was thinking of polishing the valve cover by hand with Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish to give it more of a shine; is there any reason why I shouldn't? I will lube the linkages on the valve cover top when I put it back on.

I topped off the tank with 7 gallons of B99 biodiesel. I noticed the cap was hard to get off and when I pulled off the cap I heard a long WHOOOOOOSH and saw the tank deforming quite a bit. I take it that it is not venting! I guess maybe there is a clog in the plastic venting doodad in the trunk.

The car seems to be accelerating a lot better since I've been driving it. I guess it does okay at 70 MPH (no need to go faster), I was just scared it was racing the engine too much.

Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:20 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,613
If you can find an old fashoned radiator shop they should be able to clean it and resolder it. Probably a hundred or so.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:21 PM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
Yesterday I adjusted the valves with a new $80 valve wrench set. The exhaust valves were off by a lot and I set them to the factory specs of .40mm. The intake valves were all in perfect adjustment at .10mm. I cleaned and lightly polished the valve cover and installed a new valve cover gasket (old one was cut from being overtightened).

Today I think I solved the mystery of the fuel tank not venting. The vent tube that drops out underneath the car was clogged with mud at the end.

I also fixed all of the lights. The previous owner must not have been able to find the proper light bulbs for the front turn signals, so he broke off the connectors for the three bulbs, drilled a hole in the center of the housings, installed a new bulb holder with caulking, and spliced the wires to make it work (not pretty). The lens gaskets were missing so he used caulking on the edges before installing, however the new amber bulbs he installed were too long for the lenses to go on completely and the bulbs melted them a little since they were touching the lenses.

What I did to fix this (for now) was to clean everything up and install shorter bulbs that were the same voltage and wattage as the previous bulbs. Now the lenses go on completely and with a little space between them and the bulbs. I boiled the housing gaskets for a few minutes then sprayed 303 Aerospace Protectant on them so they would go back on the housings more easily. It looks a LOT better and works. Now all of my turn signals work, including the indicator lights on the dashboard. I think I want to look for nicer housings eventually (and maybe upgrade to the European style with fog lights built in).

The tail lights were a hokey nightmare as well. The previous owner installed a third brake light and cut into the wiring harness to do so (why?). The electrical connections at the light bulb housings were broken and full of caulking. There were also a few different ground wires that had been added. I cleaned the bulb holders and installed new bulbs. The reverse light bulb holders for the left tail light are broken (apparently the caulking didn't hold up in that spot). There is lots of metal tape in the housing. The brake light bulbs that were installed before were too big and they touched the plastic sides of the housing and melted them a little.

I'd like to find nicer tail light bulb housings in the future. But, for now all of the lights work except for the left reverse light. Now to patch the radiator with some JB weld until I have it recored.
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 12-23-2009, 05:08 PM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
Here are some better pictures of the 200D. I think it looks nice overall, but the rocker panels look like they will need complete replacement. I want to take care of the rust then touch up and blend the chipped and rusty spots of the paint after I find out what the color name of my car is. I think it's odd that the front bumper overriders have a rubber strip while the rear ones don't. I may swap them out for all metal ones to match the ones in back. This car has factory green tinted heat absorbing glass (thus the great conditon of the interior). As you can see from the pictures of the engine compartment, I have the York air compressor out of the way for now (behind the air cleaner) until I replace all coolant hoses and have the radiator recored.
Attached Thumbnails
Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d11.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d12.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d13.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d14.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d15.jpg  

Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 12-23-2009, 05:08 PM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
And some more pictures. The paint on the back face of the car is flaking off like it wasn't prepared properly or there was moisture there during painting. I plan on respraying the areas that need it (probably with spray paint of the proper color).
Attached Thumbnails
Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d16.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d17.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d18.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1968200d19.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #51  
Old 12-23-2009, 07:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog View Post
And some more pictures. The paint on the back face of the car is flaking off like it wasn't prepared properly or there was moisture there during painting. I plan on respraying the areas that need it (probably with spray paint of the proper color).
So, you're not so desperate now to sell your Finnies?

Happy Motoring, Mark
__________________
DrDKW
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 12-23-2009, 07:19 PM
Joseph_Conrad's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cleveland Heights via Seattle, WA
Posts: 326
It's looking pretty nice. Thanks for the updates and pictures, I enjoy them.
__________________
1984 300D, 228k, Light Ivory, Java MB-Tex
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 12-23-2009, 11:16 PM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
So, you're not so desperate now to sell your Finnies?

Happy Motoring, Mark
I don't want to sell them, but it is a hard balance for me to have a car and pay my other bills. It's really not much more expensive than owning any other make of car (and much cheaper than car payments on something new). I just need a better job, is all. But, I am taking time after work to try to pursue a career in art and music. I used to draw and play music a lot and I've come to the realization that I need to make a career out of them because I don't have a future in the job field.
Attached Thumbnails
Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-scott300sd2.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-1967ihs.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-dogs.jpg   Looking At Buying 1968 200D W110-gsd.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 12-24-2009, 06:54 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog View Post
I don't want to sell them, but it is a hard balance for me to have a car and pay my other bills. It's really not much more expensive than owning any other make of car (and much cheaper than car payments on something new). I just need a better job, is all. But, I am taking time after work to try to pursue a career in art and music. I used to draw and play music a lot and I've come to the realization that I need to make a career out of them because I don't have a future in the job field.
Well, I hope you can hang on to them. Good Finnies are hard to find.
A few years ago, I drove a very rusty '60 220S for awhile. After a few minor repairs (motor mounts, brake adjustment & hoses), and I got used to the manual-steering and drum-brakes, it was an awesome car to drive. And I really enjoyed the column-shift again.
(How I learned to drive a stick on my first Ponton 180, back in the early '70s).
My Finnie left me with a good idea of how nice one of these must have been when new.

Happy Motoring, Mark
__________________
DrDKW
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 12-29-2009, 12:40 AM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
Aaaaaah! I miss my CD player! My Becker Europa radio comes and but the tuner knob isn't working. I want to install a new Blaupunkt Bahamas CD player like my W116 had, but the radio openings in the dashboard of the W110/W111 cars are too small to fit a modern radio/CD player. I can't install it under the dash either, as the A/C unit is there.

Part of me wants to cut the opening in the dash larger, but I don't know how I would do so and do it WELL (and I would want to be able to put the original radio back in at a later date). It would be nice if I could cut the hole larger perfectly so it looked factory, and then if I decided to go back to the original radio to put a spacer in there so it would fit in the now larger opening.

I had thought about installing a rebuilt Becker Mexico cassette deck with auxiliary port, but even those won't fit in the dashboard opening!

Look how nice the Becker Mexico cassette players look in the dash: http://fatfranz.files.wordpress.com/2007/07/interior2.jpg

Too bad you have to cut the dash for them to fit. It would be nice to have one with the auxiliary port and then a portable CD player on the console.
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 12-29-2009, 12:56 AM
Joseph_Conrad's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cleveland Heights via Seattle, WA
Posts: 326
My dad drove a 1991 chevy caprice for awhile that we got from my grandparents. When the radio stopped working he strapped an old shower radio to the driver's door...maybe you should give something like that a shot. At least ya wouldn't have to cut the dash!
__________________
1984 300D, 228k, Light Ivory, Java MB-Tex
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 12-29-2009, 01:02 AM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph_Conrad View Post
My dad drove a 1991 chevy caprice for awhile that we got from my grandparents. When the radio stopped working he strapped an old shower radio to the driver's door...maybe you should give something like that a shot. At least ya wouldn't have to cut the dash!
Haha, yeah. I don't think I could bring myself to cut the dash unless it was car that I knew I was never going to sell, and then I would do a REALLY good job of it.
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 12-29-2009, 01:13 AM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
Oh, AWESOME! I wonder if it connects to the Europa radio. Haha! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BECKER-EUROPA-MONZA-MEXICO-PINSTRIPE-CASSETTE-PLAYER_W0QQitemZ350296298946QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item518f4955c 2
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 12-29-2009, 01:37 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
You could try something like the 'secret sound system' I put in my '60 Fintail several years ago. I didn't want to hack up my dash or interior, or have anything fancy visible to thieves. After some experimenting, I acquired a used, compact 100-watt amp - small enough to fit behind the dash, and installed it above the underdash fiberboard panel, left of the steering column.
(If you can't find that small an amp, you could install a larger 150 - 200 watt unit under one of the front seats)
I wired the amp's power to the fusebox, via a lighted power-switch mounted in the under-dash fiberboard.
I used a portable CD-player or Panasonic walkman-type FM-cassette player in the center tray, with the headphone-jack cabled to the amp's audio inputs. When the car was parked, the portable players could be hidden under a folded towel or newspaper, or secured in the glovebox or trunk.
The amp's ouput was wired to a pair of 50-watt two-way box-speakers set on the rear floor. FM signal through the portable wasn't great, but cassette or CD sound was pretty decent.
I left the vintage mono AM/FM Becker Europa in the dash - wired to it's own speaker - figuring thieves wouldn't be interested.

Happy Motoring, Mark
__________________
DrDKW
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 12-29-2009, 02:23 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 58
What an outstanding find! I wish I could find something like that here in southern California. I recently settled on a 1963 W110 diesel for $450, but it needs way way more work than yours does, with the possible exception of rust repair given the state of your rockers.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page