agreed

the adjustment happens very quickly, use of a pry bar needs to be precise and you only learn by trial and error.


If you find yourself with zero drip, pull the IP away from the engine and start over again.... ONLY MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TOWARDS THE ENGINE UNTIL YOU FIND THE DESIRED DRIP RATE.

DO NOT PULL AWAY TO ACHIEVE DESIRED DRIP RATE!

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If you remove all of the Fuel Injection Lines you will not need as much force to do any prying.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

OK, that is a good point which needs discussing....

The steel fuel lines are very strong. The combo of all of them connected does significantly increase the brute force necessary to move the injection pump.

HOWEVER, if you have ever screwed up trying to get a steel tube bent and reattached without crossthreading it ( brake lines count in this mental horror exercise ) ... then you can imagine the potential problem with having all four or five off and by definition not now fitting without bending ....

That is interesting about only obtaining the correct drip while going in the ' towards direction'...
like setting the rip fence on a table saw...you always go out and adjust coming back to the blade ( there is built in play ) to keep your project from binding at the other end of the blade....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

In this case, prying is much more accurate than turning the pump by hand.

Agreed, the lines should be removed, however a pry bar makes this job much easier when doing it by yourself.

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There will be no Horror Stories of cross threading if you get things screwed in by hand first. If this sees impossible it is because you may need to bend the tubing slightly be fore you start screwing the nut in.
Do not depend on the nut to force the tubing to bend.

Slide the Nut up a ways and look at the alignment of the cone on the end of the Fuel Injection Tubing with the Recess in the Injector. Bend it until they are very close to alignment before sliding the Nut down and at lest get it started as many threads as you can by hand before you wrench it.

The other thing you can do is Install the Fuel Injection Lines on the IP with the nuts on but loose; then install them on the Injectors loose with the Nuts on but loose. After that tighten them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Okay okay, I'm really close to doing this so I'm trying to clarify this:

now when I read the above paragraph, I wonder couldn't you move either end of the top of IP towards or away from the engine? Meaning, if it is like a distributor and you turn the IP on a shaft, then its turning clockwise or counterclockwise, right?

So thats what I'm wondering, to advance timing, to I turn clockwise or counterclockwise?

mark

Clockwise, as viewed from the driver's seat.

If you rotate the front end of the IP toward the engine, the rear end will follow. I guarantee it!!!
The rotation is around the longitudinal axis of the vehicle, not the vertical axis.