So, I have some unfortunate news. I have a fuel leak and bad motor mounts.

The fuel leak is at the delivery valve o-rings. Quoted: $440
The motor mounts need to be renewed. Quoted: $421



I can't really afford that right now, so, I'm gonna tackle it all myself. I'm in the process of compiling everything that I need, so, feel free to chime in and add to my lists. I absolutely do not want to miss anything (assume I don't have any tools!), and I'm not going to be in the area around Turkey day, soo...time is of the essence (as is money - very essential). VA has a 15 day repair period, after which point, it'd go through another inspection.

Motor mounts part list:

• Two new motor mounts - there seems to be a huge range in price. What's the deal with this? Any recommended? I haven't called the dealer yet to see what OE are, anyone know a rough cost for those?
• Breaker bar (or can I just get by with a ratchet?) + extensions + flexible joint
• Torque wrench <- needed? What size?
• Scissor jack and wood. Where's the best place to lift the engine? Oil pan?
• Ramps. I'm assuming this is all done from underneath the car. Chocks, too.

Ok, general questions. I've seen the OM606 motor mount diy article, and I'm assuming it's similar. I haven't seen any FSM .pdfs that are related, except for 22-210, which is just "function of hydraulic engine mounts". Not too useful. Are the left and right mounts identical? What torque, or is it just 'tight'?

Delivery valve list:

• Mercedes tool 617 589 01 09 00
• Torque wrench (35Nm)
• 6 x delivery valve o-ring
• 6 x copper seals (new ones needed? I would assume yes, if they're crush washers)
• Paper towels
• T30 torx socket? (looks to be necessary to remove collar on the 602, I'm not sure about the 603)
• Diesel/oil for seals
• A pick or small needlenose pliers for picking up small parts

If anyone has the Mercedes parts number on the o-rings and copper seals, that'd be great. If not, I'll find 'em.

I'm gonna take half a million pictures. Unfortunately, I'll be working out in a parking lot, so, it's all weather depending.

Thanks, guys. Oh, and sorry for all the questions intermixed in everything. Feel free to warn me of DIY difficulty (I'm not experienced, however, very good with technical detail)

__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting

Can't speak aobut the Delivey Valves - never done them.

About the motor mounts - while you're doing them, you may also consider checking/replacing the engine shocks - you'll need to loosen them up when you lift the motor to release the motor mounts. They have rubber bits on them that like to fall apart after a while...

The biggest pain with the motor mounts was getting the rusted out, barely accessible hex bolts out of each one. One of them had me standing on top of the motor reaching straight down thorugh the opening with a flexible tool... crazy but certainly possible. Inspect the bolts and kind of get an idea what you're in for first - also it's a good idea to soak them a day or two in advance with PB Blaster - it will help. Make sure you clean out all the dirt from the opening where the hex wrench goes - mine looked welded shut - turns out it was packed rust, grime and dirt - I used an awl pick to clean it out with plenty of Brake Cleaner. A nice hex socket 8mm (I think) with a long (10-12inch) flexible extension would be very useful for the mounts.

Best of luck -
James

__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

Find another inspection station, somebody who will work with you.

.... it's amazing that some folks want EVEN MORE government intrusion into our lives.

__________________
'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

I'm not suggesting you don't fix these items, but if time and money are short, then I agree with Jetmugg. If you take it somewhere else they probably won't even mention these items. In fact, these are two things I am suprised they wanted to hassle you about. I just had mine inspected - incidentally, my delievery valves are leaky, too - and they hit me with my 3rd brake light, a new windshield wiper and a tie rod. Wasn't too bad so I took care of that and had it back to them a week later.

Sure you lose out on the money you already paid, but it will definately save you time, and perhaps money as well, in the mean time.

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

Move to a small town in Tennessee.

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Yeah, I was pretty surprised that they said something about the motor mounts.

They said something about the fuel leak when I had them do the PPI (and said it was nothing to worry about). Go figure. I'll probably do this anyway, just need a couple tools. Seems to be about $70 and a bit of my time.

Unfortunately both fuel leaks and 'broken motor mounts' are on the checklist. Ouch.

This just happens to be one of those things where I'm hit with bad timing. No tools, no job, blah

__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting

Assuming that your time and money are of the essence and the car was running fine before the government determined it to be unfit!

You can just change the delivery valve O-rings that is why they are leaking not the copper washers. Normally you would want to do both but there is always a possibility that replacing the washers while you are in there will run into a problem. If your goal is to get the car inspected and on the road just fix what is needed to do that.

You will need a splined tool either the correct socket or you can make a tool that will work in a pinch. Get to a bone yard or your personal parts pile and (from any MB diesel car, 615/6/7 or 601/2/3/4/5/6) grab three of the brackets which lock the delivery valve holder/barrel in place, grab a delivery valve holder/barrel, you can get it off the pump with a pair of vice grips just try not to bugger up the splined area too much don’t worry about the threads at the top. Take the brackets and stack them in place them on the valve holder/barrel you grabbed to get them to line up together, weld the three brackets themselves together, then weld a bolt about 6” long onto the brackets for a handle. Now you have a custom wrench which you can use to loosen and tighten the delivery valve holder/barrels on your car.

When you do the delivery valves, get the engine warmed up first, that way it will start easier when your done, leave the lines at the injectors cracked just slightly to allow the air to be bleed off as you try to start it. When you start it, give it plenty of throttle and then tighten each of the injector line nuts once you see fuel running out.

Again with regard to the motor mounts, buy the least expensive ones you can get.

When you’re ready to R&R the mounts, after cleaning the hex recess in the bolt head thoroughly, with a good 8 mm Allen socket and a large ratchet or breaker bar. Take a propane torch and heat the bolt head from below, this will soften the blue thread lock, it doesn’t have to be that hot 150 degrees F will soften the thread lock. Then get the tool in the bolt head, hold it straight and square and it should come free pretty easily. From the top it’s a 19 mm that you can reach with about 18” of extensions and a flex joint/swivel.

Place a 2” X 6” under the front area of the oil pan and lift it enough to get the collapsed mount out and the new mount in place. Get the bottom bolt started and then lower the engine down onto the mount, you might need to lever things around a bit to get the engine arm’s end into the correct position. Thread lock on the top bolt and send it home, with the engine lowered completely onto that mount, remove the bottom bolt, apply thread lock and then reinstall it and torque it to spec. Repeat the other side and get your inspection done your sticker!

The O-rings will stop the leaks and the new mounts will last a couple years, someday when you get more money and time you can do everything completely and correctly and you’ll have some experience already! Good Luck!

I put two new motor mounts in my 87 300D just over 2 months ago. I've put almost 3,000 miles on them since then and I have no complaints. My old ones were pretty much crushed. Had to replace my trans mount too, and boy did that take care of several noises I kept hearing!

I don't know what an OE brand would be but I got a pair of SACHS-BOGE from german auto parts. Reasonably priced when I ordered them @ $60.00 each but they've got them listed at almost $75.00 each now.

I'm not exaclty a DIY'er so I had a mechanic I found off CL install them and he charged me $90 (he's a certified MB tech so I trusted him). The quote you have for $421 is outrageous. Even with me paying for someone to install mine I was only out of $210 P&L.

Hope this helps some.

Regards,
DieselClan

Or Lewis County WA. Only 64,000 people and counting... Its great

On a serious note, Nate, when removing the eng shocks you'll need a pair of vice grips to grip the cylinder rod to keep ot from turning when you remove the nut on the bottom... Also, please dont jack the car from the lower oil sump get a chunk of wood an brace it to the upper oil pan to life the eng...

__________________
Regards,
Ian White

1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)

Ok, thanks for the recommendations, guys.

I'm trying to figure out if a 5-100 lb-ft torque wrench is sufficient for the motor mounts. Should be plenty, right? Does anyone have the torque specifications for the motor mounts?

Are there any W124 FSM articles that I should be looking at?

__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting

The tough part will be getting the motor mounts loose, not torquing them tight after replacement.

Don't use a torque wrench to get the old mounts loose, just use a regular ratchet or breaker bar.

SteveM.

__________________
'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

Man in PA all they did was check my tires, jack my car up, and looked at my car visually.

The guy that did it said he's never done an inspection on a diesel car before

Heck he was even kind enough to point out that my CV boots were going bad on the front, but I already knew that.

Come on over to PA friend!

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

The motor mounts are fairly easy on an in-line engine like yours. Buy good ones so you don't have to change them again in a couple of years. I don't think the OM603 engine in your car has "engine shocks," that's a 617 item.

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

This is a 124 chassis vehicle there are no engine shocks! This is an OM603 engine there is only an oil pan there is no upper and lower pan!

On a side note, an engine shock used on a 126 chassis vehicle has been designed and manufactured with a section of its shaft which has flats ground into it where a wrench is used to counter hold when loosening the end nut. Scoring the shaft with plier’s jaws will eventually damage the shaft seal and the shock's effectiveness.

Ok, cool. Not moving yet! The girlfriend still has another 2.5 years left on her PhD (if not more).

I'm not too particularly pleased with the area (mainly from difficultly in finding a job).


Looks to be about $400 in parts when I've added everything up.

Motor mounts (2x sachs boge / lemforder) $126.38
breaker bar $11.99
scissor jack $25.99
ramps $49.99
torque wrench $80
8mm allen socket $not much
mercedes splined tool $50 or so
T30 socket $25 (seems that snap-on seems to be the place to go for this)
+ a small amount for extensions and flexible couplings
+ a small propane torch if necessary (could I get by with a small butane torch if needed?)


I'll hit the mounts with penetrating oil at least a day before. I want this to be a simple and painless as possible.

__________________
1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008
1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting