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  #1  
Old 11-23-2009, 09:53 PM
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Anyone make the DieselGiant oil cooler hose tool?

Just what it says... Need to make the "diesel giant oil cooler hose tool", but don't have a lousy 1 1/16 (or metric equivalent) to turn into the tool.

Wondering if anyone has one that I could borrow. I imagine it is kind of a one time use tool for the typical DIY.

Thanks!
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Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #2  
Old 11-23-2009, 11:13 PM
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I have one I made, but shipping both ways would be the cost of a good used wrench, as far apart as we are.

I picked up a Bluepoint (Snapon) at a car show swap met for a few bucks. has to be the best for the MB .

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #3  
Old 11-23-2009, 11:33 PM
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Find a Crescent/Adjustable wrench that opens up that much and see if it will fit in the space available; use it carefully.

It is not the wrench that is the problem. I would read up on the stripping threads issue on the Oil Cooler.

On a 123 you will also need a thinned 7/8 or I think it is 22mm and a something to hold the fittings on the Oil Filter housing that are 24mm. I think that wrench would also be best thinned.

I used a big 1-1/16 Crows Foot I bought on eBay on a 1/2 inch drive Breaker Bar.

If you are in a big city find the cheapie tool store that sells made in China tools.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 11-24-2009 at 01:21 AM.
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  #4  
Old 11-24-2009, 01:31 AM
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It might be this place would have a cheap wrench; quoted from another thread on Oil Cooler repairl.
For those living in/near central New Jersey I found Dewitt Brothers Tool Company in Kenilworth has the 18mmx1.50 tapered tap for $12 and the 21/32" drill bit for $9. Since we're tapping aluminum I went with a 41/64" bit since the aluminum will flex slightly and be a tighter fit than using the 21/32" bit.

Other info:MerchantCircle.com -- Dewitt Brothers Tool Co of 101 N 8th St, Kenilworth, NJ. Phone: 908-272-0023. . Find coupons, blogs, and newsletters in Kenilworth, ...
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  #5  
Old 11-24-2009, 01:41 AM
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I bought the homemade tool from another parts site. I needed some other goodies, so I threw it in the cart.

Since Sears didn't have the thinned open-end wrench that I needed, I decided to try my patience (and risk my oil cooler) and remove them without holding the oil cooler fitting in place while removing, installing the hoses.

To get the old hoses off, I sat under & over the car and gently tapped the wrench on the nuts - CLOSELY watching the fitting. After about 2-3 minutes the nuts started to move and come off cleanly. My threads were not rusty or corroded, so this worked out.

Reinstalled the same way. Hand-tighten until snug, then gently tap them down. I've had one hose connection have the slightest leak. Cleaned it thoroughly then tapped it down just a bit more. No leak. I've put another 4k of spirited miles on this without a single problem more.

YMMV - I cannot guarantee this will work for everyone (or anyone else for that matter)...
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  #6  
Old 11-24-2009, 01:50 AM
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Use Anti=Siez compound when reinstalling the hoses on the oil cooler and oil filter. will help to keep the corosion down between the aluminium and steel threads.

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #7  
Old 11-24-2009, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
It is not the wrench that is the problem. I would read up on the stripping threads issue on the Oil Cooler.
I intend to apply kroil penetrant to the connections a number of times and over a period of time, to help loosen them up. I have a thin 22mm, so that is not a big deal, hopefully.

Thanks.
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #8  
Old 11-24-2009, 07:30 PM
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One other thing Ill ask is if it makes sense to use teflon tape vs. anti-sieze, and if anti-seize is the right product, do I use the copper or Nickel (?) (silver-colored) stuff?
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #9  
Old 11-24-2009, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Find a Crescent/Adjustable wrench that opens up that much and see if it will fit in the space available...
It won't. Not on the filter end, anyway.
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  #10  
Old 11-24-2009, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
I intend to apply kroil penetrant to the connections a number of times and over a period of time, to help loosen them up. .
Heat the nut with a propane torch..........then apply the Kroil.

Do it a number of times.

The success of getting Kroil to move sideways into the threads is highly questionable.
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  #11  
Old 11-24-2009, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
One other thing Ill ask is if it makes sense to use teflon tape vs. anti-sieze, and if anti-seize is the right product, do I use the copper or Nickel (?) (silver-colored) stuff?
For steel on aluminum, zinc antiseize is the best option.
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