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  #1  
Old 11-20-2009, 04:13 PM
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So *#! frustrated: clutch slave cylinder

So, you guys gotta help me out with this. Tomorrow is opener for deer hunting and I can't go if I don't fix this problem.

Having recently replaced the master cylinder on my 82 240D, the slave cylinder failed shortly thereafter. It was leaking so a few times I bled the thing (reverse, from the RF brake bleeder valve) to give it pressure again, but finally bought a replacement. I installed the new one yesterday. Had a hell of a time lining up the clutch line, but got that finally and got it all in.

Now the thing just will not bleed. I've set it up so I'm reverse bleeding from the brake line again, but the fluid is just leaking out around the slave cylinder valve as I pump the brake. I tried reinstalling- everything seemed to be correct and I put it back on. Tried bleeding it from the top down by opening the slave valve and pumping the clutch, just to make sure the clutch line wasn't blocked. Pumped out air and a bit of fluid, so I assume the line is installed correctly. I've got all the bleeder valves opened up. I don't know what's going wrong! And I'm covered with brake fluid and frustrated.

Only thing I'm not sure of...do I need to have someone else pump the break and open/close the clutch bleeder valve, like bleeding the breaks? Tutorials on here seem to say no, but maybe are wrong?

Any tips are certainly welcome!!

Thanks much!

Deanna

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1976 300D 217k...an old car needin some love. (GONE OFF TO RUSTY CAR HEAVEN)

1982 240D probably something like 190,000 miles...was Old Yeller, but I changed the name to Buttercup
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2009, 04:22 PM
aaa aaa is offline
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How do you know when you're done? Just when the clutch works? I know I messed with it for a while, but then realized it was working fine and drove off.
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2009, 04:31 PM
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I had the exact same problem when i was installing a used slave. I was afraid it was clogged or rusted shut or something. I did the step on clutch, open, close, let off, repeat with my brother and that worked. Be sure to pump the clutch with your hand about 20-50 times before beginning, that just saves a lot of time. The bleed up through brakes method is faster and only requires one person, but this method is relatively fail safe. You know when you're done when the clutch feels normal and there are no more bubbles coming through the line attached to the bleed screw.

Here's my thread.
Can't bleed the !@#$ing clutch
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1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2009, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna View Post
So, you guys gotta help me out with this. Tomorrow is opener for deer hunting and I can't go if I don't fix this problem.

Having recently replaced the master cylinder on my 82 240D, the slave cylinder failed shortly thereafter. It was leaking so a few times I bled the thing (reverse, from the RF brake bleeder valve) to give it pressure again, but finally bought a replacement. I installed the new one yesterday. Had a hell of a time lining up the clutch line, but got that finally and got it all in.

Now the thing just will not bleed. I've set it up so I'm reverse bleeding from the brake line again, but the fluid is just leaking out around the slave cylinder valve as I pump the brake. I tried reinstalling- everything seemed to be correct and I put it back on. Tried bleeding it from the top down by opening the slave valve and pumping the clutch, just to make sure the clutch line wasn't blocked. Pumped out air and a bit of fluid, so I assume the line is installed correctly. I've got all the bleeder valves opened up. I don't know what's going wrong! And I'm covered with brake fluid and frustrated.

Only thing I'm not sure of...do I need to have someone else pump the break and open/close the clutch bleeder valve, like bleeding the breaks? Tutorials on here seem to say no, but maybe are wrong?

Any tips are certainly welcome!!

Thanks much!

Deanna
Fluid is coming out around the threads of the bleed nipple on the slave? yes, which is new (came with the new slave) so its not plugged and when you thread it in more, no fluid goes through? Is that whats going on?

And no, you dont have to open and close the bleeders. If you secure the hose at both ends with small hose clamps you wont get a brake fluid shower
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2009, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
And no, you dont have to open and close the bleeders. If you secure the hose at both ends with small hose clamps you wont get a brake fluid shower
I'm sorry sir, but that's exactly what happened to me.

Your method has worked in the past, but not always. The last time I tried, I got many brake fluid showers, with hose clamps. I was doing everything right, I tried many times before using the open close method.
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  #6  
Old 11-20-2009, 05:03 PM
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yeah, I have hose clamps. And the bleeder valve on the slave is wide open and it's still pissing out around the edges of the valve when I pump the brake. The amount in the container I'm catching it in is pretty much the same as the amount the fluid has dropped in the reservoir ie: it's not going into the cylinder.

There is no pressure on the clutch at all and shifting does not happen, so I'm pretty sure I'm not done.

I'm going to try it with two people using the reverse from RF brake method, but I have to find someone else first.
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1976 300D 217k...an old car needin some love. (GONE OFF TO RUSTY CAR HEAVEN)

1982 240D probably something like 190,000 miles...was Old Yeller, but I changed the name to Buttercup
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2009, 05:19 PM
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Hey Balles

So I read your other thread on this...Did just opening up the slave screw and pumping the clutch ultimately work? Cuz I don't have help for a couple hours here at least and it's going to be dark and below freezing by then.

I also wasn't sure what you meant by "violent" on the clutch pedal. :-)

d
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1976 300D 217k...an old car needin some love. (GONE OFF TO RUSTY CAR HEAVEN)

1982 240D probably something like 190,000 miles...was Old Yeller, but I changed the name to Buttercup
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2009, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
I'm sorry sir, but that's exactly what happened to me.

Your method has worked in the past, but not always. The last time I tried, I got many brake fluid showers, with hose clamps. I was doing everything right, I tried many times before using the open close method.
Sorry about your brake fluid shower, with the hose clamps on there it musta had some bodishious pressure. As you must have suspected the fluid must be able too "circulate" through the system for any bleeding system to work. Where was the problem? On my "79" 240 the nipple on the slave was plugged with sediment once when I tried to bleed it, which might be expected as its the lowest point in the system.
I have never had the hose come off in clutch bleeding since I started using clamps.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2009, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna View Post
yeah, I have hose clamps. And the bleeder valve on the slave is wide open and it's still pissing out around the edges of the valve when I pump the brake. The amount in the container I'm catching it in is pretty much the same as the amount the fluid has dropped in the reservoir ie: it's not going into the cylinder.

There is no pressure on the clutch at all and shifting does not happen, so I'm pretty sure I'm not done.

I'm going to try it with two people using the reverse from RF brake method, but I have to find someone else first.
When you open the bleeders there is a "fine line" between "open enough" to pass fluid and "closed" enough not to piss fluid. I think maybe you are not hitting that sweet spot.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:14 PM
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I feel your pain.

Have a couple times, actually. The trick that has saved me - twice - is to unbolt the master cylinder from the clutch pedal ass'y. Leave everything else attached, just take the two bolts out and let the M.C. dangle there. You can fiddle with the eccentric screw up there at the top until the cows come home, but it won't move the piston in the M.C. out far enough for fluid to make its way through. Free the master cylinder entirely, and there will be no pressure on the piston. Reverse bleed, or use the power bleeder (preferred) to keep pressure in the system until you can close the bleeder on the slave.

O.k., though, here's the catch: you have to leave the bleeder open until you have shoved the master cylinder back up into place and at least gotten the bolts in. Otherwise, you'll be working against the return spring for the clutch. Forget it; never gonna' happen.

Good luck, Deanna!

Jay.
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  #11  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna View Post
So I read your other thread on this...Did just opening up the slave screw and pumping the clutch ultimately work? Cuz I don't have help for a couple hours here at least and it's going to be dark and below freezing by then.

I also wasn't sure what you meant by "violent" on the clutch pedal. :-)

d
It did work. Takes about 10 minutes for the assistant. I think, in a fit of frustration, I opened up the bleed screw on the slave and just went nuts on the clutch pedal. I saw some fluid dribbling out, assuring me that nothing was clogged. Then I just did the open, close method after and it went fine.
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2009, 07:18 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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One issue I had when using the cheap vinyl tubing bleeding from the brake caliper (one person, with hose clamps) is that the tubing itself acts as a bladder. When you pump the brake pedal, the force is absorbed in the tubing and when you release, I think a lot of it goes back to the caliper rather than the slave cylinder. For that reason, I had more success using two people and opening and closing the slave cylinder with every stroke.

As I said before in another thread, this is an art, not a science.

Good luck.

Rick
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  #13  
Old 11-21-2009, 02:10 PM
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Damn Slave cylinder: Day three

Well, I had help for about two hours today and still no clutch and no vehicle ( and no deer hunting). First: Spent about an hour slowly reverse bleeding with an assistant on the brake pedal and me opening and closing the bleeder valve. Thought I was hitting the "Sweet spot" as Steve O said, though there was still leakage but that's happened when I've done this before. Pressure on the clutch seemed to be increasing...I was hopeful! But when I started it up, pressure on the clutch decreased and shifting was not possible.

So I started this: Open slave bleeder. Assistant pushes down on clutch. Close slave bleeder. Assistant lets up on clutch. Repeat ad nauseum. Trying to bleed it from the top. When I broke the valve open initially, nothing really came out- suggesting that nothing had really gone in after an hour of reverse bleeding. With this system, I am slowly getting little bits of (dirty looking) fluid and bubbles. Slowly being the key word. What do you guys think? Will this work? I could also try the suggestion of unbolting the MC, but don't totally understand that or how it works and so am tentative.

Also: when I replaced the slave cylinder to begin with, the car was in neutral. Could this have been a screw up?

Help! I'm so frustrated!
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1976 300D 217k...an old car needin some love. (GONE OFF TO RUSTY CAR HEAVEN)

1982 240D probably something like 190,000 miles...was Old Yeller, but I changed the name to Buttercup
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  #14  
Old 11-21-2009, 04:14 PM
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The only way I've been able to bleed my clutch was with a mighty vac attached to the slave cylinder. The casing around the bleed screw on the slave has so few threads that as soon as I crack it enough to let fluid flow, air comes in through the threads. I still get air going past the threads but it is being sucked in to the mighty vac as opposed to the clutch system.

I heard the Bucks were few and far between and that nobody was getting anything so you're not missing out!
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2009, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna View Post
W

Help! I'm so frustrated!
I'll be darn if I can see why your having this problem, where did you get the slave cylinder? could be bad....You said in your first post that you successfully did this operation before, something is wrong other than your bleeding procedure.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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