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  #1  
Old 11-27-2009, 05:46 PM
otto huber's Avatar
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Found a couple of nice half shafts at P and P but. . .

. . . they won't let you bring a floor jack into the yard. Can you remove the shafts without using a jack? I was thinking that I might find a jack in the trunk of a toyota and use that. Should I install the shafts on opposite sides when I put them on my car? Thanks

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  #2  
Old 11-27-2009, 05:56 PM
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You gotta jack it to "open up the space" to allow the axles to come out. The trailing arm needs to be "hanging" to get them out.
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  #3  
Old 11-27-2009, 06:50 PM
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Have those knuckleheads pullem for ya.

bleah
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2009, 07:51 PM
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Depending on how they have the car sitting it is easy to get them out without a jack. If the car is sitting up on welded rims like they are at my yard then you just have to remove the diff mount, diff cover and clips. Then remove the bolts inside each rear wheel hub. It helps to remove the shocks on the car to lower the suspension as much as possible, then they should come out without much issue. Or you can just drop the whole differential, I've done that too.
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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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  #5  
Old 11-27-2009, 08:43 PM
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[QUOTE=otto huber;2348750... Should I install the shafts on opposite sides when I put them on my car? Thanks[/QUOTE]

Do not swap sides! The axle's stub seal surface is machined to keep oil in the differential with what Mercedes called "oil return threads". Swapping sides will create differential axle seal leaks. Mercedes was very specific regarding this.

Also, good luck with the spacers. They are unique to axles/differential combination.
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  #6  
Old 11-27-2009, 09:29 PM
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Thanks guys,

Looks as if the driveline from the transmission supports the diff enough to remove the diff mount without it crashing to the ground.
Good to know about which side to install on. I plan on keeping the clips and spacers from the junkyard shafts and using them if necessary.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2009, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskeydan View Post
Do not swap sides! The axle's stub seal surface is machined to keep oil in the differential with what Mercedes called "oil return threads". Swapping sides will create differential axle seal leaks. Mercedes was very specific regarding this.

Also, good luck with the spacers. They are unique to axles/differential combination.
What difference does it make which side the axle is mounted on? there is an oil seal on either side of the differential. the end of the axle shaft that goes into the differential is the same size on all, axles. (Unless Chinese, then anything goes ) the axles aren`t marked left/right.

I was under the impression the spacers were specific to the differential, not the axle.
I haven`t read in my FSM or in the thread/posts about "Oil return threads"

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #8  
Old 11-28-2009, 12:13 AM
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I saw no such "oil threads" on either of our cars axles when I had them out in June for re-booting. The shafts were smooth.
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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #9  
Old 11-28-2009, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskeydan View Post
Do not swap sides! The axle's stub seal surface is machined to keep oil in the differential with what Mercedes called "oil return threads". Swapping sides will create differential axle seal leaks. Mercedes was very specific regarding this.

Also, good luck with the spacers. They are unique to axles/differential combination.
Swapping sides with used axels on 123s is both recommended and wise. You get a lot of new basically previously little used wear surfaces.

As another poster pointed out there is not a left and right side specific part number on rear axles.

I wonder if the oil return threads or slingers were on certain other models at one time?
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  #10  
Old 11-28-2009, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otto huber View Post
Thanks guys,

Looks as if the driveline from the transmission supports the diff enough to remove the diff mount without it crashing to the ground.
Good to know about which side to install on. I plan on keeping the clips and spacers from the junkyard shafts and using them if necessary.
The Diff is mounted to the Sub frame by the 4 studs out of the top of the Diff.
The Diff mount is bolted to the Diff by 2 22mm bolts going in the snout on the cover. the 4 13mm bolts hold the Diff and mount to the car body.

Removing the 4 13mm bolts, and the Diff will drop at least 6 inches. then the rear cover can be removed to get the 2 "C" clips off the axle ends.

the Diff still needs to be raised back up to it`s mounting point, to remove the axles. (bolts in axel end at wheel hub has to be removed)

the Diff won`t crash to the ground, until the 4 nuts are removed that hold the Diff to the sub frame.
the driveline really doesn`t hold the Diff up. though it mest be removed to remove the Diff.

there is a certain amount of risk not using a Jack, which PNP doesn`t allow. some times one can be found that was over looked.

the easiest axles to remove are the Annular type. they have the 6 bolts on the Diff end. remove them. the axle hub bolt, and the axle drops right out. still have to remove the Diff cover to remove the axle stub. be sure to bolt it back on, or you will be charged for each piece.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #11  
Old 11-28-2009, 12:51 AM
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Look, just because yall haven't seen the bulletin on the machined axle surfaces does not mean that it does not exist, especially when somebody who has read this points it out!

I pulled some half shafts at the yard without a jack. I had to drop the rear shocks in order to drop down the hub side far enough to get the axle out.

Dan, I think they're gonna want chapter and verse on the bulletin......
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  #12  
Old 11-28-2009, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
I was under the impression the spacers were specific to the differential, not the axle.
Charlie
I had read that on this site as well, but from my experience different axles require different spacers.

I've had 6 different axles (3 per side) in my 84 300D in the last few months and each time I needed slightly different spacers. Two of those axles were cheap GSP axles from AA, so perhaps that's one reason. Even comparing the original axles with rebuilt ones from CVJ I needed slightly different spacers on one side though.
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2009, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Look, just because yall haven't seen the bulletin on the machined axle surfaces does not mean that it does not exist, especially when somebody who has read this points it out!

I pulled some half shafts at the yard without a jack. I had to drop the rear shocks in order to drop down the hub side far enough to get the axle out.

Dan, I think they're gonna want chapter and verse on the bulletin......
They're gonna have to buy the book. I believe I paid a couple of hundred bucks from MB some years back.

Click the "Buy Parts" link above to get your new differential seals.
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2009, 12:09 PM
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The Oil return Feed Thread

OK boys and Girls. Here is the deeply guarded secret.

In the FSM Vol 1 35-620 Removal and Installation of Rear Axle Shaft.

Installation
Rear axle shafts are provided with oil return threads
(twist) on running surface of radial sealing ring, which
are different for left and right. For identification, the
face of the inside joint is provided with an electrically
written "R" for the righthand side and an "L" for the
lefthand side. The oil return feed thread or the identi-
fication is in place up to September 1979 on models
107.023/024/043/044, 116.028/029/03 and up to
February 1981 on models 107.022/042 and 123.

10 Refinish oil return feed thread, if required, with
emery cloth (grit 180) at an angle of approx. 20deg
and for a length of 20-30 mm.

NOTE: When installing a radial sealing ring with alter-
nating feed thread, refinishing of oil return feed
thread is not necessary. If a rear axle shaft is installed
without oil return feed thread, make sure that a radial
sealing ring with alternate feed thread is installed.


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2009, 02:52 PM
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Location: Treasure Coast, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
OK boys and Girls. Here is the deeply guarded secret.

In the FSM Vol 1 35-620 Removal and Installation of Rear Axle Shaft.

Installation
Rear axle shafts are provided with oil return threads
(twist) on running surface of radial sealing ring, which
are different for left and right. For identification, the
face of the inside joint is provided with an electrically
written "R" for the righthand side and an "L" for the
lefthand side. The oil return feed thread or the identi-
fication is in place up to September 1979 on models
107.023/024/043/044, 116.028/029/03 and up to
February 1981 on models 107.022/042 and 123.

10 Refinish oil return feed thread, if required, with
emery cloth (grit 180) at an angle of approx. 20deg
and for a length of 20-30 mm.

NOTE: When installing a radial sealing ring with alter-
nating feed thread, refinishing of oil return feed
thread is not necessary. If a rear axle shaft is installed
without oil return feed thread, make sure that a radial
sealing ring with alternate feed thread is installed.


Charlie
This is good to know. I am replacing my entire diff. with axles next weekend. I ordered new "drive seals" for the diff. I'm assuming those little cross hatches that go both directions would be considered the latter, correct (radial)?

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