Glad you got it out with out incidence. Even though you have done a lot right now, you are just catching up on 'defered maintanence' and should have less to do shortly.

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2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

I weld a larger nut to the ruined bolt head... Takes about a minute... Sometimes it is a mistake to warm up the car until you loosen the bolt first and then after you finger tighten the bolt start the engine... But I have never had a problem getting the bolt out after welding the larger nut on the head of the bolt.. I use a nut that takes about a 26 or 27mm(1 & 1/16) wrench or a pipewrench... Jim

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James A. Harris

Yeah... I hope so - it's a lot of 'little' things but they all add up to a lot of time and lots of tasks. I have a spreadsheet of all the tasks I have to do with various color codes to indicate degree of completion...

The one major thing I have left to do is the replacement of the engine mounts - that's next, plus a power steering leak (high side) that I just have to cure - can't stand the stains on my garage floor. One thing at a time....

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

That summs up these cars I think.... One thing at a time...

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

I really couldn't tell you why mechanics do this bull****. I have seen guys with 20+ years experience in the industry. Every ASE certification under the sun, diagnostic capabilities through the roof, personally (not shop) owned Snap-On Modis machines in their toolboxes with $10k price tags, and they will torque down an oil plug like they're securing down a once-removed-discard-it Jesus nut on an aircraft turbroprop engine.

It really defies all logic and reasoning.

Education and training do not always change a persons character.

My guess is the person used an Impact Wrench to take the Plug off, dumped the Oil and used the same Ipmact to tighten it. Mechanics like to save time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yup, Pela gets more oil out as you can suck out the oil filter recess.

Only down side is you have to empty them halfway through as not enough capacity for the 606 unless you go for the pro version.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

Has anybody ever heard of the fumoto oil valve? My brother installed one on his A6 5 years ago, and has NEVER had any problems.

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

OK since I used this thread as info reference, I'm posting my anecdote for those who use the archives before posting redundant questions.

My W126 , 1989 300SE had a stuck oil drain pan bolt. Aluminum pan.

I tried the 12 point 13 mm socket 1/2 inch drive and long breaker bar. No budge but noticed that the corners of the bolt were beginning to strip.

I stopped. No need to force a problem and really strip the bolt head.

Time to refer to archives and a friend.

Tried liquid wrench and hitting with flat chisel counterclockwise.
noticed that chisel left marks on bolt head sides and was cautious.
Still did not budge. Tried 13mm open end wrench also.

Went to sears and bought the bolt out kit and a 6 point 13 mm socket.

Socket also began to cause the corners of head to begin to strip.
Hit more with chisel. No deal.

Fit 13mm bolt out over head after cleaning up the side ends of head with a file.
Noticed that bolt out is a great concept but works better with good downward force.
Socket fits over top edge of head and is supposed to work itself over and onto head as it is turned. I did not want to pound that socket on at this point since I did not want to deform the bolt head in case the bolt out did not work w/o problems.
Keeping in mind the last resort use of a vice grip.

Let 2 weeks go by to allow frustration to leave and be able to see clearly and not be impulsive.

Tried 6 point 1/2 inch socket and it would not fit with medium force. I had bought another old socket at a garage sale, apparently 1/2 inch but 3/8 inch drive. That fit on easier and snug. Secured it onto head with hammer.
Heated the surrounding bolt area (pan) with propane torch for 2 minutes. Flame was set low and passed over surfaces with brushing strokes.

Let it cool and while warm, hit the bolt head and set in socket with the metal cold-chisel body.
I kept hitting it at the top with medium force.
Hoping that this would jar loose the threads.
Waited until the entire area was cooled off.

Finally I grabbed the socket head with a vice grip and inserted the std. length 3/8 drive breaker bar into socket.
Turned both counter clockwise. Eventually the vice grip slipped off and I decided to proceed with only the breaker bar.
I noticed that the corners of the head appeared to be giving away again, but
decided to go ahead and apply force since I was confident that the 6 point socket had more surface area to secure the bolt head.
With medium muscle force it turned open as if nothing had been stuck.
No dramatic tell tale noise.

whew.

Now to change the oil. Got a new bolt and washer already and can return the unused bolt out kit ($14).
Need to buy a device to draw the oil out but I'm not decided yet which to buy.
Not sure of current quality control on these devices like the "topsider"..

Seems like certain production runs have lousy materials.

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1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
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1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

I have a green Chinese unit from H-F that works very well. Much higher quality than the broken Top Sider it replaced, but more expensive and lacks a hand pump.

Everyone who owns an old Merc should buy a metric socket set. I bought my set at wally world for $40 and it has made my life significantly easier.

That, a propane torch, Mapp gas, and some penetrating oil will make every stuck bolt on a northern car break free.

I ended up stripping my oil pan bolt using a 12 bolt socket. The little guy just did not want to come off.

Heating the bolt did the trick.

On a side note, I finally bought a torque wrench so no more broken bolts

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

OK so what's H-F ?? model number?

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1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
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1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

I replace mine every 100K or so. Just to be on the safe side.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

I believe Harbor Freight.

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83 SD

84 CD

If the drain bolt was rounded, a pipe wrench alone would have done the job. The pipe wrench grips tighter as you turn it and won't slip. Use a long pipe extension on the wrench handle to get more leverage and it'll come off easy.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked