First oil change on the new SDL - I get under the car after I've got it all warmed up and was trying to simply remove the drain bold in the oil pan...

The darn thing is stuck on there good - I tried a cheater bar and it's stripping that bolt but it's not budging!!!

What can I do? I have an impact wrench but don't think I have 13mm black socket to fit it... only the chrome socket, which I'm afraid might just strip the head and then I'm hosed...

Help please -

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

drill out the center of the bolt as wide and deep as possible.

use heat on a cold pan.

say a 'Hail Mary'

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This almost happened to me an hour ago. I would go grab an impact socket and gofor broke. Drill out if it just doesn't work

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

This is one of those jobs where a 6 point socket is better than a 12 point one.
I think I would pospone the Oil Change until I was prepared to deal with the face that if the bolt does come out the Threads may be damaged.
I am assuming that you were not the one that had the drain plug off last a that some Lub filter type place were the last ones to touch it. It may be they cross theaded it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

the 617 has a steel lower oil pan that is easily replaced.

the SDL in question has a single unit oil pan that spans the entire bottom case.... and its aluminum.

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Exactly... and it seems now I'm screwed... because have just stipped the bolt with an impact wrench.... Holy crap!!!! So far, I've been plagued by bad luck... this is just another dose of it... I swear...

I guess I have some choices to make now: 1) Stop and forget about it for now - until I have a way to deal with the stripped bolt and have a replacement. 2) Go get an easy out from Sears and try to get it out. 3) Get a top extractor and do it this way - perhaps perpetually now... 4) Take it to a mechanic locally and have them extract it out for me.

DIESEL911 - no, I was not the one who welded this bolt shut - someone else did before I purchased the car...

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

if you use an extractor, drill as deep as possible and use the widest extractor that will fit. Once the bolt is mostly drilled out, it will come out pretty easy as long as it wasn't cross threaded. (I would probably do this because I'm cheap and stubborn, *that doesn't mean its the right way)

get prepared, as recommended - I doubt you HAVE to change your oil right now. Theres nothing wrong with tapping to the next size and using a common bolt and copper washer.

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I had this EXACT same problem on my 617.

Use a 6 point socket! I ended up breaking my cheap Chinese 12 point socket.

Also remember clockwise tightens, counterclockwise loosens. I almost learned this the hard way.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

Percussive maintenance is required. A sideways tap on the sides of the bolt faces with a 2lb ballpein and a flat head chisel , a good healthy tap mind you will work wonders. If the bolt is stripped try a 1/2" 6 point socket, easy to find and a bit smaller than 13mm. you can turn down the radius on the front of the socket face in a lathe or just grind it flat on the side of your bench grinder. File the ugly sides of the bolt down a bit. Drive the socket on with a hammer to get it tight. One of those hand impact wrenches that you hit with a hammer is a good way to apply torque with downforce which is what is required. If it is really rounded you can try a small 4" or 6" Ridgid pipe wrench with very sharp teeth. Drill only as a last resort. Cheers Dan

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It's always something simple
91 300D 603.960 (from japan) 194K
92 Toyota Diesel Landcruiser HDJ81-t 116K
02 Golf TDI new head courtesy of PO
87 300D
97 BMW 525 TDS Wagon 5spd
bunch of Onan and other diesel generators

Sounds like your drain plug is toast anyway, maybe one of those bolt extractor sockets that grab what's left of the bolt head.

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83 SD

84 CD

Yep, the bolt is T O A S T now for sure - it's been rounded by the impact wrench tool... I'm really afraid to use a hammer on it because it's aluminum, and I don't want to crack the da&n thing - which with my luck, I feel, is just around the corner...

I may go to Sears and try to find some miracle bolt extraction tool that I can fit on there - any recommendations?!

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

Honestly, I would leave it alone and use a extractor to change the oil until/unless you are willing to get into replacing/repairing the oil pan. Things like this have a tendency of going from bad to worse.

I've read some of the threads on the 'top sider' topics - large debate I guess - I may have to invest in one of these - I have very little choice at this point. Any oil evacuators/extractors that the forum members recommend?!

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

Have you tried this type of bolt extractor?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96334

No drilling required.

This kind of oil extractor works but the hoses don't last very long with oil at operating temperature. The failure mode for me has been hoses that collapse inwards rendering them useless but thus far the hoses haven't broken nor made a mess.

I hear the Motive unit is well made but I don't know how well it puts up with oil at operating temperature.

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Extractor-Evacuation-Transmission/dp/B000AAJSOE

There are units that work with vacuum and pressure so you can collect oil then feed it into jugs for disposal.

Sixto
87 300D

Be careful not to break off the easy out. I'd likely take it to someone that has a lift and can weld something to the bolt or look at pulling the pan or try one of the extractors that go over the bolt. Impacts as in hammer wis more likely to remove it than is simple brute force torque. What ever you do, make sure the car is in a good place to be down. Never work on one vehicle if it is blocking another (mobile) vehicle.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.