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#16
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Yep, that's how I did it.
You warm climate people have it WAY too easy, that stuff looks perfect! No rust!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#17
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You know the sad thing? that 85 380SE was perfect. not a thing wrong with it, no rust, accident damage, perfect black interior looked like no one ate in the car, always garaged. I did retrieve all the black interior for my SD, 2:47 diff, window motors, check straps. this way before Omama or Clunker was heard of.
The 85 300TD only had a little wrinkle in the L/R quarter, very fixable. no rust, needed a little cleaning up. I dragged most of the parts home on that one, 50% sale It`s a shame what I see getting destroyed out here, you east coast guys in the salt belt would give your left ___ for some of this stuff. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#18
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Quote:
I took out the bolts pretty easily with the subframe dropped. Just a 1/2 in breaker bar did it. The 1/2 in ratchet doesn't hold anymore, it just spins if you put too much torque on it. First craftsman to bite in here. I actually bent a taiwan 3/8 ratchet when taking out a starter bolt. I still use it though, as a reminder I still have no idea how one would get the flex disc bolts out? I just cut the nut off with an angle grinder because I couldn't get a wrench in there
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#19
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Quote:
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#20
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about the donut, this is the easy way to take it out like on the pictures, you need to move it away from the diff or the prop, depend wich way you go.
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E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD cost a fortune to maintain on the road but run well on WVO Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long? Third lasted a month then went away... Fourth now... Corroded too... |
#21
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I need help under standing whunter's post about removing the removing the differential. There's a fresh gen 2 420SEL about to come in the yard. This is great opportunity for me to obtain some expensive parts.
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#22
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"This is great opportunity for me to obtain some expensive parts. ", said no diesel owner ever!
If you are looking to buy some expensive parts, then I am your man! I'll sell you all kinds of expensive parts. Some which might even fit your car!
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#23
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I should of said it's great opportunity to obtain expensive parts for cheap
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#24
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If you're going with the newer style axles and differential from a 420SEL, it would be easiest to remove the differential and axles as a unit. Note: some of the later models will have a different mounting than the 300SD and will not transfer.
Here is the section of the FSM that covers it: https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Chassis/35-520.pdf The axle ends can be removed from the hub, using a brass drift punch.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
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