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W126 Differential Removal, Help!
I am having muchos trouble removing the differential from my 1981 300SD. I have the driveshaft disconnected, but I can't pry it from the flex disk. I also can't get 3 of the 4 nuts holding the differential to the sub-frame. The one I did get off was with a box wrench and an 8 lb hammer.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#2
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there is a finger that centers the driveline. you have to pull the diff back from the driveline. you have to remove the other 3 nuts.
cheater pipe on the box wrench? mine wern't on there that tight. Try spraying them with PB blaster and coming back to them tomorrow.
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1983 Toyota Tercel 4WD Wagon - 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 4-Speed(My Car!) 2005 C230 Kompressor 6-Speed Manual
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#3
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Quote:
With regard to the four nuts and bolts that secure the diff to the subframe, life is much easier if the entire subframe is lowered about 4" via the removal of the diff mount. You do need to support the diff/subframe combo when you do this...........and, you do need to support the subframe, independently, if you expect to remove the diff from the subframe. With sufficient access, removal of the nuts with a six point wrench is not a problem............use some Kroil if you are having some difficulty............or hit the nut with a propane torch for 60 seconds..........and then blast it with Kroil. |
#4
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Well, went out to put another coat of WD40 (I don't have PB blaster) on those nuts, and found this:
I guess I had the jack on the subframe (for safety), so that's why I couldn't get to those bolts. I didn't know that the only thing holding the sub-frame to the chassis were those four bolts on the differential mount. I didn;t even know it moved This helps my problem immensely.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#5
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When you become a real mechanic..........you'll toss that WD-40 and get the proper penetrant........... |
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And, on a completely different matter, I understand why you locked my thread on injectors, but I can't find anything on how exactly cleaning affects the performance of the injectors, if at all. See my issue here?
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#7
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Most attempts of cleaning injectors will likely result in failure. If you want to improve the performance of an injector, change the nozzle and balance the set...........or simply replace the set. |
#8
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Do I have to remove the entire axle unit to remove the diff?
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#9
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I'm not understanding "entire axle unit"?
The axles do need to come out of the hubs at some point. This might be easiest when the diff is down near the floor and the vehicle is supported above the floor. I'm assuming that the body is supported on the jackpoints as we speak..........correct? |
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RE: injector question
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Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar and Nailing. LINK THREAD Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar, and Nailing. LINK THREAD |
#11
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Answer
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Remove the differential back cover. Have a drain pan to catch the used oil. Unlock the axle shafts. Remove the four bolts holding it to the sub-frame. Separate the axles one at a time. Save any axle shims, marking location. Remove the differential. |
#12
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Alright, wow, that car did not want to let it's rear end go (har!). It took a 3 ft crowbar to pry the driveshaft from the diff, a cat's paw to pry it from the subframe and lots of movement to get those axles out.
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#13
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To remove the upper 19mm nuts that hold the diff to the subframe I used a small 3/8" ratchet with the flex handle, and a 19mm 3/8" deep socket + a long piece of black pipe on the handle. The craftsman ratchet survived the task, then failed....sears replaced it.....the replacement lasted through the re-install and beyond, but I broke it yesterday trying to remove a power steering pump bolt! Back to sears.... I think it must be a design flaw, because the normal craftsman 3/8" ratchet I have had for 6 years and used for a million different things still works fine....
Oh, and I broke my torque wrench too. I need to stop working out.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#14
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Here are some pictures of the diff removal and the wrench I used to get to the top 4 nuts.
I think these 3 pictures are of a 2:47 being removed from a 85 380SE
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works Last edited by charmalu; 12-03-2009 at 01:58 AM. |
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pg 2
the red cheater pipe is something i found in a car. that was the first Diff I removed. think I was using a 3/8 wratchet. the other pictures I was using my 1/2in drive craftsman wratchet. Actually I used the 1/2 in to break the nuts loose and used the 3/8 to remove them in the last 3 pic. this is a 2:88 I removed out of an 85 300TD in Aug. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works Last edited by charmalu; 12-03-2009 at 01:59 AM. |
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