Diy...617 Diesel Turbo Drain Grommet Repair!

[Putty]

The unwritten rule on this forum should be to share secrets of how we have successfully made repairs on our MERC diesels! This article will explain my tips and ways of successfully replacing the grommet on the turbo drain for model 617 diesels (for those of you unfamiliar with the term 617, this is a Mercedes diesel with an inline 5 cylinder 3 liter engine).

Mercedes was not exactly looking at the long road ahead of this particular part...however, they made it easy to replace and CHEAP when it did fail.

The way it worked was the center part of the turbo was supplied oil from the top and then the oil drained down a tube into the oil pan. This tube is actually two parts, a top half that overlapped the bottom (there is travel between the oil pan and turbo; this avoided tubes bending). The top tube was connected to the turbo via 2 13MM screws and the bottom part connected to the oil pan via a rubber grommet. Thats all! You have to remember, there was not a lot of emphasis based on pressure because this was a DRAIN into a pan that created suction back into the engine...so dont worry about looking for any other high pressure connectors.

This grommet is commonly known to dry out and leak because of the combination of heat and age. The part can be bought here on Mercedes Shop.com for $4. I trust Mercedes Shop religiously after I did this repair...I ordered 2 of these parts from 2 different companies and GUESS WHO SENT THE RIGHT PART (especially when you NEED your car back on the road)! While youre shopping...order a new turbocharger gasket and 2 new O rings...these are all the seals in this tube...theyre cheap and you might as well replace them all while youre at it.

Now, you have your grommet, your seals and this article...lets get started!

1: Go ahead and take off the air cleaner and air hoses that connect to the turbo...you want to have a good clear view of the turbo charger and be able to look right down at the grommet from the top!

2. With your air intake components gone, you also have better light for when you have to get under the car. Now, get under the car and look up at the bottom of the turbo...there are 2 bolts attaching the upper tube to the bottom of the turbo. This took me a 12" extention and a swivel. Remove the bolts...these have gotten hot over the years and may be hard to remove. Dont lose these bolts.

3. With the bolts removed, pull down the top part of the tube into the bottom. This part may be a little hard but you have to remove the two halves. Pull the bottom tube toward the passengers side (not TOO hard, we dont want a crimp) and fiddle the top part off the bottom side. This was what was recommended, but I personally found is easier to just move it all around until it came off.

4. Now, get out from underneath the car and just pull on the tube...pull it right out of the block! I used a rag and some vice grips. (Dont be dumb now, pull on one wall of the tube...dont grip a tube on the outsides and risk crimping it!) This will take some doing, some wiggling, some cursing! You can even tear the old grommet apart if you wish JUST DONT LET BITS OF IT FALL INTO THE OIL PAN!!!

5. You pulled the tube out! Now, you have a top tube, bottom tube, and bits of old grommet and 2 O rings! The bottom tube had an O ring on both ends...replace these after coating in FRESH oil. Then lube up the grommet with fresh oil and push it into the center of the bottom tube.

6. Now, place one end of the tube into the oil pan (again, dont be dumb...make sure you place fresh oil in the oil pan and push the grommet end in from the right direction). Push it in until it kinda clicks (so that it wont be terribly easy to pull back out). Dont put the grommet in the block juuuust yet.

7. Heres the best part! Getting the grommet into the block. A recommended way of doing this was to lie on your back and pull down on the grommet with a claw hammer. I didnt like that method...most claw hammers have semi sharp ends for removing nails and this could cut into your grommet...you dont wanna do that! The best way for me in terms of ease was to use a long breaker bar from the top of the engine. WITH YOUR HANDS, push the grommet into position and try to push it in as much as you can. Then, using a long bar with a fairly dull end (so as not to chip into your grommet) start pushing the grommet into the block. Dont put all your energy in one area...work your way around the grommet putting force evenly around the seal, this was where fresh oil came into play...lube and softening the rubber.

8. Just like removing the top tube, put the top tube back on...this was easier for me than taking it off. Remember that gasket for the turbo? It goes on this fitting...make sure the old one is off. I slipped a single bolt in one side and hung the gasket from it as I started the screw...then I wouldnt worry about it slipping off when the second screw came around. Make the gasket nice and snug!

9. Start the engine and watch for leaks...if theres none, put all air cleaning apparatus back together and go driving!

YOU DID IT...Cost to you $12 in parts...Cost from a MERC mechanic, $225+.

Thanks for reading, leave me some feedback if you liked this DIY article...I'll have more soon!

[Jeremy5848]

Well done! I will need this information soon. Photos?

Jeremy

[Caduceus]

When I replaced my starter I replaced everything in that area and it took me a good half hour to get that stupid bottom section of that tube out of the block!! I ended up cutting the heck out of the old grommet and finally managed to finagle that tube out of there. I can't believe how loose it can be in that hole but how it WONT come out of the block.

Good write up.
I went 1 step further and for just a few bucks more I ordered the tube. Boy was I glad I did. The time and aggravation saved by not worrying about damaging the old tube during removal was IMO ...WELLLLLL worth the cost of the tube.

[boondoc holiday]

how long does this take to do on average? i think this was the rubber piece that i found on the ground after i accidentally dropped my car off ramps when trying to inspect for a block heater. broke the transmission cooler line in the process which has since been patched. but i bet that grommet was the old crusty rubber piece that broke in pieces. but i digress....

how long does this take to do for a first timer?

[Putty]

Originally Posted by boondoc holiday

how long does this take to do on average? i think this was the rubber piece that i found on the ground after i accidentally dropped my car off ramps when trying to inspect for a block heater. broke the transmission cooler line in the process which has since been patched. but i bet that grommet was the old crusty rubber piece that broke in pieces. but i digress....

how long does this take to do for a first timer?

With all parts on hand, approximately an hour for the actual job...but if its your first time SLOW DOWN and make sure you do it right...check and re-check. Dont be in a rush, which means have an afternoon free in case of a problem. Its not a hard job, just a little irritating at times.

To answer your other question...on the 5 cylinder 3L engines, follow the thick tube coming out the bottom of your turbocharger and look where it meets in the oil pan...normally, you should have a rubber boot there...if theres nothing there, thats probably the remains of your grommet (those things are NOTORIUS for drying out!) Remember, if you think you may have let some rubber pieces drop into your oil pan...drop your oil pan and clean it out then change your oil...these engines last when taken care of!

Thanks for looking...any other questions, lemme know!

[bodyart27]

Post # 2 and Pic #2 shows my "lever" technique to shove the drain tube into the grommet (quite difficult!)

Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing

[RogerB34]

Thanks for the info. Could you clarify the following:
3. With the bolts removed, pull down the top part of the tube into the bottom. This part may be a little hard but you have to remove the two halves. Pull the bottom tube toward the passengers side (not TOO hard, we dont want a crimp) and fiddle the top part off the bottom side. This was what was recommended, but I personally found is easier to just move it all around until it came off.

Do you mean "pull down the (upper) tube into the lower (tube)"?
Or do you mean pull down the lower tube into the engine block?
Did you cut out the grommet to gain separation angles?

[micalk]

Easier to do this job on a W126 chassis. Air conditioner hoses are in the vicinity on a 300D. Expect it to take 3 hours, but may be less if you can get the lower tube out quickly. I had to cut the grommet as best I could and pull pieces out with needle nose to get enough slack for me to pull it out of there. May also help to warm up the grommet in hot water before assembling to make it more pliable.

[Putty]

Originally Posted by RogerB34

Thanks for the info. Could you clarify the following:
3. With the bolts removed, pull down the top part of the tube into the bottom. This part may be a little hard but you have to remove the two halves. Pull the bottom tube toward the passengers side (not TOO hard, we dont want a crimp) and fiddle the top part off the bottom side. This was what was recommended, but I personally found is easier to just move it all around until it came off.

Do you mean "pull down the (upper) tube into the lower (tube)"?
Or do you mean pull down the lower tube into the engine block?
Did you cut out the grommet to gain separation angles?

Yes, the tube is in 2 sections...the top WITHIN the bottom

[JHZR2]

Nice writeup. Ive done this job. The best way to explain it is to lie on your back fiddling with two hard lines until they magically go into place...

My biggest issue is the turbo gasket. Very hard to clean perfectly if it is stuck on there hard, and often a new source of leaks after opening up the lines... IMO, care, maybe some RTV and also some thread sealant may be in order.