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  #16  
Old 12-04-2009, 08:11 PM
280EZRider's Avatar
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Torque for that bolt is 75 nm. Using a breaker bar, you probably doubled that torque.

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  #17  
Old 12-04-2009, 11:09 PM
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I strongly would advise against trying the easy out. They usually break off and they are too hard to drill out easily.

Stick with a drill or left hand drill. If you cannot save the threads you can through bolt it fairly easily, IIRC.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2009, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 280EZRider View Post
Torque for that bolt is 75 nm. Using a breaker bar, you probably doubled that torque.
Aha! Just in time for me to do my mounts I was wondering what it would be roughly
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2009, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Stick with a drill or left hand drill. If you cannot save the threads you can through bolt it fairly easily, IIRC.
Forgive my ignorance, but what does this mean exactly?
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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
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  #20  
Old 12-05-2009, 12:08 AM
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Left hand drill bit works counterclockwise to drill a hole vs. clockwise for normal bits. So the mere action of using a "reverse" bit might back out the remaining piece of the bolt.
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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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  #21  
Old 12-05-2009, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Left hand drill bit works counterclockwise to drill a hole vs. clockwise for normal bits. So the mere action of using a "reverse" bit might back out the remaining piece of the bolt.
Got it ... thanks. Hopefully my dad has such drill bits somewhere. I have one piddly (but nice) set of regular bits.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #22  
Old 12-05-2009, 12:19 AM
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"If you cannot save the threads you can through bolt it fairly easily, IIRC."

I think the above means that as one of the members did; he drilled completely trough the arm and installed a long bolt through the hole with a Nut on the other end.
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  #23  
Old 12-05-2009, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
"If you cannot save the threads you can through bolt it fairly easily, IIRC."

I think the above means that as one of the members did; he drilled completely trough the arm and installed a long bolt through the hole with a Nut on the other end.
Wouldn't that cause great risk of cracking the aluminum arm? I don't want to think about what happens when the end of the arm breaks off while going down the highway.
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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
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  #24  
Old 12-05-2009, 07:59 AM
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Not that bolt. the ones going down through the subframe. They are allen heads but the big bolt that goes up is a hex head isn't it?
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #25  
Old 12-05-2009, 11:38 AM
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That aluminium arm is some stugh stuff, It ain`t going to break easily.
think about it, you have a 500# engine sitting on them bouncing, twisting etc for xxx 100,000 miles w/o a problem.

I cut the end off one with a saws all (long story, later dude) and it was tough as nails.

I would be more worried about breaking off the 2 little bolts that hold the motor mounts to the body. now that would be bigger problem to deal with.

I think a aluminium arm from the JY is like $10. that would be the route I would go.

charlie
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  #26  
Old 12-05-2009, 11:43 AM
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The little allens that hold the mount to the frame are 8.8 hardness.....and they don't really do anything, since the mount sits on the frame the only thing they have to do is keep it in place.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #27  
Old 12-05-2009, 12:30 PM
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OR

Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
It is an excellent word. Right up there with Explodified.

Or.....Rupturized
in the words of Early Cuyler, "rejuvitized, fastitized, apprecinate"

And who cold forget, "telecomutacatize?"
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Last edited by C Sean Watts; 12-05-2009 at 01:09 PM.
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  #28  
Old 12-07-2009, 05:23 PM
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Well, I couldn't find a reverse drill bit, and the guy in Sears wasn't much help on this occasion. I did buy a nice kit of very small extractors, but they won't reach the bolt because of its being far up in the frame. I couldn't find an extension, and Sears and Lowe's were similarly unhelpful in that regard. So it looks like the arm has to come off. I'll try putting it in a vice and getting the bit out with the extractor. If that doesn't work, new arm.
So ... removal process is support engine, remove arm? Anything I'm missing? Not looking forward to this even though it seems simple enough; it's 25 degrees out. Also, might as well ask this now: What is the proper torque for the bolts that hold the arm to the engine? Thanks.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #29  
Old 12-07-2009, 07:14 PM
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Ebay, Amazon and others have left hand drill bits. Here's some from Harbor Freight but I have no idea of the quality.
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=left+hand+drill&Submit=Go

Or just google left hand drill bit
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  #30  
Old 12-07-2009, 07:36 PM
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easy outs work great when you know when to back off. (as in it feels like its gonna break) as for the reverse drill bits, you will probably have to chase down a snapon or matco truck. my assumption is the same as brians, there shouldnt be any torque on the bolt since the head is gone. i would remove the arm to try anything on it.

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