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  #31  
Old 12-07-2009, 07:46 PM
Craig
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Last time I had an issue like this (broken AC bracket bolt stuck in the block) I took the car to my indy and he welded a nut to the broken bolt and backed it out.

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  #32  
Old 12-07-2009, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaysob View Post
easy outs work great when you know when to back off. (as in it feels like its gonna break) as for the reverse drill bits, you will probably have to chase down a snapon or matco truck. my assumption is the same as brians, there shouldnt be any torque on the bolt since the head is gone. i would remove the arm to try anything on it.
Yeah, I'm thinking it'll be fairly easy to remove with the arm off the engine. It's not so much a difficulty-of-removal problem as it difficulty-of-access at this point.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #33  
Old 12-14-2009, 02:04 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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I don't mean to be a whiner, but this is ridiculous. I can't find anything to get this bolt out, and I can't get the arm off either. Do I have to remove all the oil cooler lines to remove the arm? Even if I do that, I can't get anything on the top two bolts. I didn't get to this until yesterday because I tore a muscle (or cartilage) in my chest and couldn't move for three days, and it's been 20 degrees out. All I'm doing now is getting dirty and $&%^ed off. I can't believe I created such a ridiculous mess because I was too dumb to use a torque wrench.

Is there some trick to getting the arm off, short of removing everything from the engine compartment? This is the driver's side, naturally. Couldn 't be the one that's easy to get to.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #34  
Old 12-14-2009, 02:21 PM
daw_two's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
I don't mean to be a whiner, but this is ridiculous. I can't find anything to get this bolt out, and I can't get the arm off either.


Is there some trick to getting the arm off, short of removing everything from the engine compartment? This is the driver's side, naturally. Couldn 't be the one that's easy to get to.
I know I had an advantage in that I had a spare motor arm to operate with......however, here's how I got the OLD mount off the spare arm. I hit the mount with a hammer. I know it's hard to get anything down in there....but if you can at least get it to budge...the mount turning might losen the bolt.
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  #35  
Old 12-14-2009, 02:36 PM
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I'm lost-

Is that the small SHCS that goes from the top? Or the big one that goes from underneath. Either way- I'm not sure why it won't just come out.

You can go to someplace like Grainger, Fastenal etc or any machinery supply company and they should have left hand drills (unless you ask for some silly metric size).

The small ones I install with a 1/4 drive and a small stahlwilie allen socket. Bottom ones I tighten up quite well with a long 3/8 drive. 1/2 drive stuff works great as there is less "flex" in the system if you are using a 3 ft extension.

Michael
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  #36  
Old 12-14-2009, 02:50 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
I don't mean to be a whiner, but this is ridiculous. I can't find anything to get this bolt out, and I can't get the arm off either. Do I have to remove all the oil cooler lines to remove the arm? Even if I do that, I can't get anything on the top two bolts. I didn't get to this until yesterday because I tore a muscle (or cartilage) in my chest and couldn't move for three days, and it's been 20 degrees out. All I'm doing now is getting dirty and $&%^ed off. I can't believe I created such a ridiculous mess because I was too dumb to use a torque wrench.

Is there some trick to getting the arm off, short of removing everything from the engine compartment? This is the driver's side, naturally. Couldn 't be the one that's easy to get to.
Should be able to jack up the car put it on stands.
Jack up the engine.
Remove the mount.
Grab the bolt stub with vice grips and remove..
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  #37  
Old 12-14-2009, 04:07 PM
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Sorry, I should clarify ... I was trying to remove the arm from the engine itself, so I could just lift it out of the mount, put it in a vice, remove the bolt end and return the arm to the engine. However, two of the four bolts holding the arm to the engine, I can't access. I thought if I just took the arm out altogether, it'd be easier to work with.

whunter, that thought has crossed my mind, to just jack it up and grab the bolt from the side ... I can't seem to get the engine high up enough to grab the bolt, which is I think because the other side is stuck (the bolt is out of it, though). I also lost my needle-nosed pliers, and I think the floor jack I'm using is in need of oil or something. And now I have to go to work. Kind of having a "when it rains, it pours" type of day. The good news is, after tonight, I have a week of vacation () ... so maybe I can refocus here.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #38  
Old 12-14-2009, 10:12 PM
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Left hand twist drill points can be sourced at most industrial suppliers that serve machine shops and industrial mechanics, and the ones I deal with don't get upset if you want one or three individual items,and they usually have good quality easi-outs, and while they aren't cheap, I haven't found them outrageous like (insert snappy tool company name here). Tool houses and auto stores usually want to sell you the 'set'. The extracters I have gotten from discount houses (and auto stores) have had the stuctural integrity of plate glass, and as has been said, busted off extracters will not drill.
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  #39  
Old 12-14-2009, 11:02 PM
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Well, lo and behold I found a set of left-handed drill bits right on the shelf at Harbor Freight, for $7.99. My dad also found a little cylinder that fits perfectly as a pilot for the drill (to get the hole dead center). Maybe this'll do it ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #40  
Old 12-14-2009, 11:56 PM
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Do you have a Drill Motor that is Reversable and will turn the Left Hand Drills?
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  #41  
Old 12-15-2009, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Do you have a Drill Motor that is Reversable and will turn the Left Hand Drills?
Yup it'll go CW or CCW. The bit may not be long enough to reach the bolt, though.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #42  
Old 12-15-2009, 06:11 PM
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It's OUT!!! I ended up not using the pilot because the bolt wasn't centered in the mount hole (which is what the pilot went in). I just took a punch, did my best to blindly center it, and whammed it a few times to make a divot. Then I took a 3/32 left-handed drill bit and drilled the divot a bit deeper/wider ... then took a 1/8 left-handed bit and went to town. My divot was a bit off to the right, which kind of worried me ... but after a whir with the drill, I looked in there and noticed my divot was now off to the left of center ... which means the bolt was spinning! I kept at it until was out far enough that I could simply jack up the engine, grab the protruding bolt with a vice grip, and turn it by hand form inside the engine compartment (I couldn't do that before because the bolt was flush with the base of the arm).

So, everything is back together, torqued to SPEC, and it started and ran beautifully! (Beauty being in the eye of the beholder). As always, thanks for all the tips and ideas. I thought it would never come out.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #43  
Old 12-16-2009, 10:52 AM
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YEAH!!!! Go Cecily!
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  #44  
Old 12-16-2009, 01:29 PM
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Good Job, glad it worked out so easy for you.
every time I remove that bolt I hold my breath.

HMMM Iam wondering if the torn muscle/Cartilage in your chest is from you
not knowing your own strength? carful what you torque down on .


Charlie

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