Shocks questions - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mattmacklind · #16 12-06-2009, 07:28 PM

Here is what the 12 pointers I bought looked like. I have several ratchet sets, but I've never had a need for these before.

t walgamuth · #17 12-06-2009, 10:03 PM

The 123 and 126 are essentially the same. If you tilt the shock there is plenty of room to get on it with a 1/2" drive 10mm with an extension.

Really.

Done with those tools that way it is easy peasy.

Brian Carlton · #18 12-06-2009, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

If you tilt the shock there is plenty of room to get on it with a 1/2" drive 10mm with an extension.

Really.

Done with those tools that way it is easy peasy.

I can positively assure you that it is impossible to get a 1/2" socket on those screws on a W-126. The body of the shock would prevent the use of anything that large. The 3/8" barely makes it and I wouldn't want to do it again.

This further confirms my suspicion that a W-126 is slightly different than a W-123.

t walgamuth · #19 12-06-2009, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I can positively assure you that it is impossible to get a 1/2" socket on those screws on a W-126. The body of the shock would prevent the use of anything that large. The 3/8" barely makes it and I wouldn't want to do it again.

This further confirms my suspicion that a W-126 is slightly different than a W-123.

Did you unhook the top of the shock and swing it to the side?

I just looked at page 107 of the FSM for model 126 volumn 1. It looks to me as if the shock is being tilted back to give clearance to get a socket on there. I don't think I have ever tried it with a 3/8" socket. Perhaps the 1/2" 10 mm actually is slimmer where it matters. I don't think I could get one of those stout bolts out without breaking a 1/4" drive and a u joint same size.

I've had three 126's and probably 20 123s, and have changed shocks on most of them with this method.

I just found a drawing in the haynes manual for the front shock bottom mount. It looks the same only reversed in the picture.

I am going to look at the parts for the suspension in fastlane and see if they are different. I am under the impression that most of the suspension parts are interchangible.

Brian Carlton · #20 12-06-2009, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Did you unhook the top of the shock and swing it to the side?

Absolutely.

Swinging it doesn't give you much benefit right down near the screw..........the pivot point is just above the screw and the body of the shock around the pivot is the limiting factor.

You cannot use a 1/2" socket............guaranteed............it hits the shock.

teezer · #21 12-06-2009, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattmacklind

I I thought maybe a bushing went underneath the mount and then one more on top, but realized today that it makes no sense as the shock has a raised area that actually slots into the underside of the hole in the top mount (does that make any sense?) so I double bushed the top so I wouldn't run out of thread. I placed a metal cap between the two bushings. Couldn't figure out any other way to solve that particular issue.

Anyway, I tightened everything up today and its pretty nice. Something else is loose down there (control arm bushings possibly) so my work continues, but I'm done until new years anyway. Good luck to everyone else.

if you put the bushings on this way, take the shocks off and do it right ~~~ shock top gets a steel cap then bushing ~~~ stick it up through the hole on the body and put a bushing, steel cap and then tighten the nut

t walgamuth · #22 12-06-2009, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Absolutely.

Swinging it doesn't give you much benefit right down near the screw..........the pivot point is just above the screw and the body of the shock around the pivot is the limiting factor.

You cannot use a 1/2" socket............guaranteed............it hits the shock.

Well, the lower control arms carry different part numbers but I printed out the pictures and the relationship of the holes where the shocks bolt on look pretty much the same as near as I can tell....

You actually tried using a half inch drive 10mm on them, right?

I suppose it is possible that I have not actually changed the front shocks on a 126, but I doubt it.

I am certain I have never used any different wrench on them. I seem to remember thinking this method would not work and my dad showing me how to do it.

Brian Carlton · #23 12-06-2009, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

You actually tried using a half inch drive 10mm on them, right?

I suppose it is possible that I have not actually changed the front shocks on a 126, but I doubt it.

I am certain I have never used any different wrench on them. I seem to remember thinking this method would not work and my dad showing me how to do it.

I actually tried using the 3/8" socket, which was entirely too large and pressed against the shock preventing me from getting a straight shot at the cap screw. The 3/8" did work, but I'll never do it again. A 1/2" cannot work.

BTW, where are you finding a 10mm socket with 1/2" drive? Doesn't make any sense.............??

tangofox007 · #24 12-06-2009, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

BTW, where are you finding a 10mm socket with 1/2" drive?

10mm is a very common "starting" size in 1/2" drive socket sets.

t walgamuth · #25 12-07-2009, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I actually tried using the 3/8" socket, which was entirely too large and pressed against the shock preventing me from getting a straight shot at the cap screw. The 3/8" did work, but I'll never do it again. A 1/2" cannot work.

BTW, where are you finding a 10mm socket with 1/2" drive? Doesn't make any sense.............??

I have at least two of them....craftsman.

Mark DiSilvestro · #26 12-07-2009, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattmacklind

I'll post again on this thread instead of thew one I started two days ago. I thought the 300D sedan was self leveling as well, but that shows what I know. I look forward to replacing the rear shocks now!

Here is a pic of my old shock and the new KYB. You can see how much longer the threaded top screw is. I thought maybe a bushing went underneath the mount and then one more on top, but realized today that it makes no sense as the shock has a raised area that actually slots into the underside of the hole in the top mount (does that make any sense?) so I double bushed the top so I wouldn't run out of thread. I placed a metal cap between the two bushings. Couldn't figure out any other way to solve that particular issue.

Anyway, I tightened everything up today and its pretty nice. Something else is loose down there (control arm bushings possibly) so my work continues, but I'm done until new years anyway. Good luck to everyone else.

I believe the reason your KYBs appear to have 'longer' studs than your old Bilsteins is that one of each Bilstein's mounting bushings are concealed under the removeable plastic boot. Pull the boots and rubber bushings off your old Bilsteins and the studs should be about the same length as the KYBs.
The non-removeable steel boots on the KYBs are welded to the shafts so both rubber bushings go above the boots on those.
One bushing goes under and the other goes over the upper body-mount. So if you put both KYB bushings above the body-mount, it's time to pull the shocks and redo them. First, the KYB takes a cup-washer. Then a rubber bushing. Then insert the KYB stud in the body-mount. Finish up with the other bushing, cup-washer & nut on top.

Happy Motoring, Mark

mattmacklind · #27 12-07-2009, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

I believe the reason your KYBs appear to have 'longer' studs than your old Bilsteins is that one of each Bilstein's mounting bushings are concealed under the removeable plastic boot. Pull the boots and rubber bushings off your old Bilsteins and the studs should be about the same length as the KYBs.
The non-removeable steel boots on the KYBs are welded to the shafts so both rubber bushings go above the boots on those.
One bushing goes under and the other goes over the upper body-mount. So if you put both KYB bushings above the body-mount, it's time to pull the shocks and redo them. First, the KYB takes a cup-washer. Then a rubber bushing. Then insert the KYB stud in the body-mount. Finish up with the other bushing, cup-washer & nut on top.

Happy Motoring, Mark

I tried it that way, too, but the top of the KYB would not "meet" the top of the body-mount on the passenger side, even with jacking up the control arm assembly and then using the weight of the car itself, so I assumed it was incorrect. The bushing on top would just continue to compress without pulling the shock upwards. I will do it again. I don't need to jack up the car or remove the wheel to do this so its easy. Ill just remove the bushes, compress the shock, assemble below, then above and tighten again.

Sure does ride nice, even if its bushed incorrectly.

Oh yeah, and you can use a 1/2" drive and ratchet. Its the extension that allows for it, but you can use a 3/8", too.

tangofox007 · #28 12-07-2009, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattmacklind

I tried it that way, too, but the top of the KYB would not "meet" the top of the body-mount on the passenger side, even with jacking up the control arm assembly and then using the weight of the car itself, so I assumed it was incorrect.

Something is not right with that analysis. If the shock is too short with one bushing on the bottom side of the mount, removing the bushing would make it even shorter, effectively.

mattmacklind · #29 12-07-2009, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Something is not right with that analysis. If the shock is too short with one bushing on the bottom side of the mount, removing the bushing would make it even shorter, effectively.

One would think so and I see what you mean, but it wasn't the case. I thought the lower bushing and cap was preventing the shock from seating properly, though. I could see there was room between the top of the shock and the body-mount. It just wasn't moving, even though I couldn't hear any rubbing or feel that there was a meeting between the the bushing and the body-mount. When I removed the bushing, the shock extended fully into the cavity very naturally, leaving me to believe this was how God an MB intended it to be, and the little raised circle on top of the shock went perfectly into the recess on top of the body-mount. the bushes have this raised circle as well, though.

Like I said, I'll go back and swap the bushes back to beneath the body-mount. I'll post if I have problems.

t walgamuth · #30 12-07-2009, 12:56 PM

Yeah, you don't want to run it that way. It is designed to have the rubber bushing and without it there are some bad things that could happen:
1. you will not have the proper amount of drop in the suspension
2. the metal to metal contact could wear a hole in the car or the shock.

I bet the shock was just hanging up on something.

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