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#16
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Thanks Hunter.
So it's supposed to be 180 degrees from the contact point then ? The lobe would be on the drivers side rather than the top. I might do as suggested and just watch a mechanic but if the rest of it is as described in Diesel Mechanic it seems fairly easy. j |
#17
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Last winter I had the same problem.
New starter and battery(Thank you Autozone) didn't fix the problem. It had slipped my mind that I went cheap and was using 15W-40 dino Super Tech oil and it was just too thick in the cold weather for the starter and battery to cope. I changed the oil to Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 and it started in much, much colder weather with the same starter and battery. Seriously, I bet it's your oil.
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. |
#18
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The oil in there now is just regular 10w30. Its hovering around 0 celsius these days and lower at night. That would be great if it's oil ! Anyone else have anything to add to that ? It was certainly having problems turning over... like it was trying to churn something real thick.
Everyone, thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going through them all. Hope it works out because I'd really love to have this car going soon. j |
#19
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Hmm 10w-30 for a diesel might be a little thin for it?
I can help you out a bit... Pm sent...
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'76 300D '82 230CE '84 300DT '91 300D 2.5 '86 300D 5 speed '86 250D 5 speed '90 300E 24v '88 560SEC 300TE euro 5 speed 91 350SD http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...d6605222-1.jpg |
#20
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More help
Cold weather starting links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/137674-cold-weather-starting-links.html#post1018529 |
#21
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Quote:
I would also recommend that you only change the oil after you get it started and let it run until it gets to operating temp. A good idea is to get it started and go buy the oil/filter in the car leaving it running the whole time if possible. When you get it home you may have to use gloves while taking out the drain plug and be careful to not let the oil get on your hand when it starts draining. 10W-30 dino is fine for the car just not in cold weather as long as it's diesel rated(it's probably not). If you have the manual it should have a chart depicting what is recommended for different temperature ranges.
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. |
#22
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update
Hey I thought I should update here for everyone that's given me suggestions.
- I was working a bunch this week so not much car time and I wanted to give it a break anyways. So I have checked battery, wiring and made sure the plugs are working. I didn't do the oil change as it does say in the manual to use 10-30 so I thought I'd check everything else first in case the whole engine is a problem or something. There's a guy here who had a look though he works on a couple Mercedes diesels a month only so he's not an expert. Although we didn't run a compression check yet - by listening to it, driving it and checking it out a bit he was positive that it was working fine and had good compression. It sounds smooth and drives great. Just needs to be heated for starting still unless its been driving. It starts instantly if I plug it in so it really seems like the glow plugs are not heating it up enough somehow. He thinks that it's something in the prechamber, like tonnes of carbon stopping it from heating up properly. I don't know if that's possible. But I am going to take it to a garage that only works on Mercedes to see what they have to say as I don't really know what else I can do at this point. He suggested that to get their opinion. If there's an engine rebuild involved for some reason there is 1982 240d standard engine here in great shape for super cheap so that might be an option if it works in a 1976. thanks for everyone's help so far ! |
#23
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Save yourself some money and do the !@#$ oil change to synthetic oil.
Seriously...
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. |
#24
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oil
OK ! I'll change it ! I looked for 5w40 but I couldn't find any in any brand.
there were 5w30's. Monday ! j |
#25
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Use Rotella 5W-40 synthetic, sold at walmart for 19 a gallon.
Also, what kind of GPs do you have, loop or pencil?
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#26
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I have the loop plugs.. I saw you can buy pencil ones with a modifier online.
But it's not that cold here yet and loops should be able to heat it up enough to fire I'd think. But I hear the pencil ones are awesome. |
#27
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The main advantage to the pencil plugs is they heat up quicker.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#28
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The pencil plugs also don't last as long either, the loop plugs last 4x as long.
Have you made sure that the plugs are working?
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#29
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Synthetic Oil
I picked up some Mobil 5W40 as it was the only kind I could find.. no Rotella at Walmart here.
However while I was at a Mercedes place in Victoria looking for a couple of things the guy said to absolutely not use synthetic oil in my car. He says it will destroy my bearings and that he's seen a lot of cars that had that happen because of using synthetic. It seems like a lot of people here are recommending to but then I hear a story like that and also most of the info on these oils says for 2003 cars and up etc... |
#30
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Gadzooks
Quote:
That is on a par with: * The world is flat. |
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