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  #31  
Old 01-03-2010, 04:33 PM
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Oil Change

Hey the holidays are almost over.. and I am back in town and the Benz is sitting here waiting for that oil change. I have the oil etc but, this is going to sound strange, but where is the actual oil filter ? I hadn't looked for it before as I thought it was just going to be right there on top but all I see I think are fuel filter which is the cylinder towards the front of the car and then towards the drivers side there's what looks like the power steering tank/cylinder. I guess I just thought that was where the oil filter would be but it doesn't have the two bolts I heard the oil filter has and just has the wingnut on top to hold it down. I'm new to Mercedes hence getting involved in this forum to learn all about this new car..... anyways I'd like to sort that out today so if anyone can point me in the right direction I'd sure appreciate it !
thanks !
j

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  #32  
Old 01-03-2010, 04:39 PM
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There is a cansister under the car on the drivers side of the motor held in with 1 17mm bolt. Inside it is a replaceable filter element and a plastic filter which you need to clean with some sort of solvent.

Good luck
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #33  
Old 01-03-2010, 04:47 PM
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oil

Thanks ! That was quick. I have the 5w40 synthetic that was recommended earlier in this thread. I couldn't find the Rotella but I did find the Mobil.
I have the filter and seals from MB. Also how much oil will the engine need ?
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  #34  
Old 01-03-2010, 05:05 PM
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I you're buying by the gallon, get two. Put in about five quarts, then check the stick. I suspect you'll end up using a little over six quarts, the same as the later 616 takes.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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  #35  
Old 01-03-2010, 05:07 PM
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^yep, put in about 6 quarts and check the fluid level.

Let me know how you like the Mobil synthetic, I might use it on my next oil change.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #36  
Old 01-03-2010, 11:17 PM
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Make sure the battery is still fully charged up too. Have you had the time to check the plugs we talked about..
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'76 300D
'82 230CE
'84 300DT
'91 300D 2.5
'86 300D 5 speed
'86 250D 5 speed
'90 300E 24v
'88 560SEC
300TE euro 5 speed
91 350SD
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  #37  
Old 01-04-2010, 01:13 PM
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Yeah, for sure Euro.
Oh MB gave me the wrong oil filter so I am waiting for the right one to arrive. Last one in the lower mainland so that's lucky.
Let you know how it goes after that....
j
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  #38  
Old 01-07-2010, 02:46 PM
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The oil seems to working fine.. not noticing a massive difference or anything and unfortunately it didn't seem to fix the starting problem.
As for the glow plugs they were replaced and there's power getting to them. We tested that with a voltometer. They do heat up as you can feel it once they've been activated. Unfortunately at the time I did not check each one individually to see if they were getting red hot. The glow light in the dash works and gets bright fairly quickly. Battery is totally fine. Maybe the engine is just worn out. If I plug it in for 20 minutes it starts instantly but if I try and start it cold it won't catch, just chugs over. I think I'll bring it in to a shop and see what they have to say as I am only a hobby mechanic and don't have anywhere to start taking everything apart. The only other fairly simple thing I know of is adjusting the valves which the previous owner said had not been done in 5 years but a mechanic I know said the engine sounded fine and he didn't think that needed to be done. His theory was there was a lot of carbon in the prechamber and it just wasn't heating up enough because of that...
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  #39  
Old 01-07-2010, 03:27 PM
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Five years!

Do the valve adjustment. On these engines, when the valves aren't adjusted, the clearances go down until the valves stop closing all the way. This bleeds off compression and causes (among other things) hard starting.

To recap: do the valve adjustment, and if the problem persists, proceed to a compression test.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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  #40  
Old 01-07-2010, 04:03 PM
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I thought I should do that but the mechanic friend said it probably wasn't necessary. He doesn't work on these that much though. So if the valves are way out but the car is warm it will start fine. But if the valves are out of adjustment and its cool/cold it won't.
I think I will get my mechanic friend to do the adjustment that's why I am double checking the symptoms. I don't mind trying that anyways as it sounds like a one and a half - two hour job for someone that knows what they are doing..
thanks for your help !
j
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  #41  
Old 01-07-2010, 04:14 PM
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Valve adjustments are very and should take an hour or less, since you have a OM616.

How long are you glowing the glowplugs? In this cold MB recoemnds glowing for about 40 seconds to a min.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #42  
Old 01-07-2010, 11:25 PM
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If there is no limit on funds fine. Otherwise just get a set of feeler gauges and check to see if they do need adjusting.

The archives covers this very well. If they turn out to need adjusting at that stage you can take a guess if you can do it. The importance here is it is a required maintenance every fifteen thousand miles. Do you want to pay for that every time?

Take the savings if valve clearance is not the issue and buy or borrow a diesel compression gauge. Mid twenties at harbour freight would do.

At some point with any engine one has to establish some sort of baseline of what they are dealing with.

When an older car is owned it has to be a learning experience. Once the ideal of paying for everything on an older car is established it is far too expensive in my opinion. I personally do not recommend that approach unless you have money to burn.

You have to start somewhere the same as the majority of members did on this site. We certainly or at least the majority of us are not mechanics. I can assure you that once you adjust a set of adjustable valves you will be able to do it in your sleep. Or if unsure the first time get a friend to help.

This do it yourself approach eliminates the possibility of a service garage working your wallet over. Especially if they sense you know little. You would not be the first. The commercial auto service business is not ethically followed in far too many cases.

I did not originate the expression of take a jar of vasoline for when they lean you over the fender. For example I dropped by a local ford dealership that did not know me a week or so ago.

They really struggled to put me over the fender until I told them exactly what to do and explained the methology behind it. Instead of their normal charge of three hundred plus dollars I left with the problem properly dealt with for one hundred and one dollars. It was a minor thing in reality but not untypical.

The next guy in there with the exact same problem will pay three hundred plus dollars. The same as all before me have. I have been accused of not being satisfied with just keeping the wolf away from the door. But beating the poor creature to death instead.

Building your self confidence up along the way is priceless as well. It becomes culmulative in nature. The younger you start the greater the advantage.

Last edited by barry123400; 01-07-2010 at 11:58 PM.
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  #43  
Old 01-07-2010, 11:39 PM
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If you plan on keeping the car a while, I suggest you get the special wrenches and do it yourself. It's not particularly difficult, and the cost savings will have those wrenches pay for themselves in two valve adjustments. My set paid for themselves in a weekend, since I have two 61x engines, and one of the cars is due for another go around, which I might get to tomorrow.

I believe there is a tutorial on dieselgiant somewhere about how to do it.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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  #44  
Old 01-08-2010, 12:22 AM
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Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
If you plan on keeping the car a while, I suggest you get the special wrenches and do it yourself. It's not particularly difficult, and the cost savings will have those wrenches pay for themselves in two valve adjustments. My set paid for themselves in a weekend, since I have two 61x engines, and one of the cars is due for another go around, which I might get to tomorrow.

I believe there is a tutorial on dieselgiant somewhere about how to do it.
Post# 15 has all the data he needs.
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  #45  
Old 01-08-2010, 05:39 PM
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I did my valves today. two hours and twenty minutes, including double checking the lash specifications on the internet, double checking which way to turn the nuts (I had it backwards), and stopping to chat with a neighbor.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
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