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#1
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Anyone replace 617 cooler lines without engine lift?
Over at benzworld one person claims that he can do oil cooler lines without jacking the engine off the mount. This was provided the mounts were in good shape. Mine are like/as new, I'm hoping I am a good candidate.
Has anyone on here done it without lifting the engine off the mount? That is what I'm most worried about... I've never done that before. Thanks!
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#2
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I did it without removing the engine mount bolt. but, beprepared to insert remove and curse, repeat, repeat, repeat. eventually you will find the right sequence of twists and turns and pressure to get it in. and then you have to do the other one. A lot less trouble if you lift the engine
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#3
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It is possible, but its much easier to just lift the engine up a bit.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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I did both w/o jacking up the engine. It's a pain, but certainly doable. When you actually get it situated correctly, there is no amount of force needed to see it into the correct position. Can't even describe how to do it...I just worked and worked at it for a long while until I got it to fit.
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1984 300D: 275,000 miles (soon to be for sale) In search of my 1987 300D in anything but white. |
#5
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Oh, surely, someone has this documented. If not, I see a challenge for me on my next 617....
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#6
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I recently removed mine to put -8 aeroquip lines on them.
Jack the front up. Take the ground strap loose. Lines go down and back . Does take some manipulation but not too bad.
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Diesel-guy |
#7
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sorry, ground strap?
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#8
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Yes, there is a ground strap or cable on the drivers side, from the bell housing to the body. 17mm bolt on bell and think it is a 15mm on the body.
with the hood up look down where the steering box is. It`s kind of behind and below it. You will have to access it from under the car. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#9
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OK got it. No menion of it in any other DIYs Ive read. I guess it is that badly in the way?
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#10
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Answer
sunnyintx has an elegant solution.
I forgot to get pictures when I was there. They cut off roughly six inches (with fitting) at each end. Take the ends to a local hydraulic hose fabrication shop. The shop makes a three foot crimped hose with a standard female 3000 PSI fitting on each end. They square cut the MB fitting ends, then weld a standard male 3000 PSI fitting on each one. Attach two ends to the hose = a ready to use assembly. I used a Sawzall to cut off the ends, then chop up the center section = total time two minutes. Installing the new fabricated lines = Stick the assembly in the engine compartment, clock/align the fittings, tighten all the joints. Total time (if the oil cooler unions have no issues) = 15 minutes or less.. Here is a rough drawing of what the hose looks like. Last edited by whunter; 12-08-2009 at 04:04 PM. |
#11
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Quote:
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1983 300SD 200000miles |
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