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  #1  
Old 12-06-2009, 11:45 PM
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Fuel Filter Change Procedure

After having a VERY hard time getting my car to start up again after replacing both fuel filters, I thought I might post here asking for those who've done this job a lot more times than I have, to give us all their tips and tricks - then maybe that can be consolidated into a sticky.

I know now what my big mistake was. I got in a hurry and didn't fill the spin-on filter wit fuel before first trying to start the car. This introduced a lot of air into the fuel injection system. I then spent over an HOUR getting all that air bled out.

So, that is my tip - DO NOT replace the filter without filling it with fuel and then try to start the car. It won't just pump the filter full of fuel and then fire up - and you will spend a lot of time bleeding the air out of the system.

Anybody else?

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #2  
Old 12-06-2009, 11:59 PM
2.5Turbo's Avatar
602 648 113 A630
 
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Location: Tacoma, WA
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On my 602 which is a bit of a different animal, I just filled the secondary with fuel from a gallon can I keep in the trunk. I filled it almost all the way to keep from dribbling it all over the place. I just let the primary fill itself from the full tank. I was fully expecting to have to crank for a while to get the extra air out of the secondary but it started right up with just a minimal amount of stumbling. Engine was perfectly smooth under load as well.

I haven't tried to change the filter without filling it, I would imagine it would take way too much cranking for the automatic primer to fill the secondary.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k
2000 E430 - 103k
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
It won't just pump the filter full of fuel and then fire up - and you will spend a lot of time bleeding the air out of the system.
The process works a lot better if you open the filter discharge line while operating the manual pump. That gives the air an escape route and prevents it from being forced further downstream.
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The process works a lot better if you open the filter discharge line while operating the manual pump. That gives the air an escape route and prevents it from being forced further downstream.
Oh yeah, I guess I forgot to mention that my primer hand pump doesn't work (needs rebuilt). I think the o-rings need to be replaced, because when you push the plunger down fuel sqirts up around the plunger shaft...
__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #5  
Old 12-07-2009, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
Oh yeah, I guess I forgot to mention that my primer hand pump doesn't work (needs rebuilt). I think the o-rings need to be replaced, because when you push the plunger down fuel sqirts up around the plunger shaft...
Well no wonder you couldn't get it reprimed.
I just did the filters on my 300TD. I filled the filter up as much a possible with ATF, put it on, primed it until I could feel good resistance in the primer pump and could feel it pushing fuel and not air. Started the car up and it fired right up and didn't cough at all. I was very amazed. Usually they sputter at least a little. Filling the spin on filter is the main thing to do when installing new filters.
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  #6  
Old 12-07-2009, 01:31 AM
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I replaced or shook out the primary on my '80 300 TD plenty of times after I started using WVO blends. It got clogged with come stuff that looked like specks of black pepper. I filled it with vegetable oil by sucking some up from a little bottle I kept handy with the extra filters. The engine started up with hardly a hiccup. The secondary filter (spin-on) lasts much longer than the primary, and I always fill it with oil when replacing it.
Steve
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  #7  
Old 12-07-2009, 02:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
Well no wonder you couldn't get it reprimed.
I just did the filters on my 300TD. I filled the filter up as much a possible with ATF, put it on, primed it until I could feel good resistance in the primer pump and could feel it pushing fuel and not air. Started the car up and it fired right up and didn't cough at all. I was very amazed. Usually they sputter at least a little. Filling the spin on filter is the main thing to do when installing new filters.
Yeah, I'll fix that before the next filter change...

And I'll NEVER forget to fill the spin on filter again - guaranteed!
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #8  
Old 12-07-2009, 02:47 AM
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You won't need to fill the spin on with a properly working primer pump. It does save time, though.

You know you're a pro when the car fires like you didn't do a thing. I am not to that level yet.
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  #9  
Old 12-07-2009, 08:17 AM
slowski
 
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When I did my DV's and fuel lines (97 E300 NA) I parked downhill towards my garage, full tank. Bad news: fuel just kept coming with every hose replacement (collected over a gallon in a large pan under the engine). Good news, it kind of primed itseld. Cranked twice before it fired up. Pretty nasty sputter and nailing on start-up though. First time I heard true loud nailing, sounded like a pounding a hammer on the valve cover for maybe a minute or two, seemed like an eternity.
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  #10  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
Oh yeah, I guess I forgot to mention that my primer hand pump doesn't work (needs rebuilt). I think the o-rings need to be replaced, because when you push the plunger down fuel sqirts up around the plunger shaft...
Hi
Primer pumps are quite cheap from $9 -$15 depending on brand -
Joseph
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  #11  
Old 12-07-2009, 03:55 PM
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Bob, here is the little goodie you need.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=&yearid=1984%40%401984&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6170%3AMBC%7C1496%3AED%7C10000135%40%40300CD&keyword=primer+pump&subcatid=P:240721@@Primer+Pump&mode=PA

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #12  
Old 12-07-2009, 09:41 PM
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Were you trying to link to this

or to the pump assembly? The link just took me to the 300CD page of the parts catalog...
__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #13  
Old 12-07-2009, 11:04 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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HMMM, that strange, I click on it and it gets me to the Diesel Primer Pump,
part# W1033-1715211 $16.22.




Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #14  
Old 12-07-2009, 11:38 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,438
I just bought two of those things from Phil.......or was it three? I just hope I remember where I stored them when the "Next" car is being worked on.......
and then one after that.......
Hmmmm.......there may be a name in there somewhere?



Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
HMMM, that strange, I click on it and it gets me to the Diesel Primer Pump,
part# W1033-1715211 $16.22.




Charlie
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Germantown, TN

Links:
Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #15  
Old 12-08-2009, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
HMMM, that strange, I click on it and it gets me to the Diesel Primer Pump,
part# W1033-1715211 $16.22.


Charlie
That's the new style, no unscrewing required, just pump.

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