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  #1  
Old 12-07-2009, 10:34 AM
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w115 Primer on Filter

Can't get my car started. I had bypass the fuel tank, got the motor started but it suck in air and can't get it bleed/started since. I see some fuel running off the primer, very little, but if it's leaking out, air maybe going in. The problem is that I can't find a replacement primer. So any option would be appreciated.

I was wondering if I could put a "newer" lift pump with the primer on it or remove the primer and put a bulb type primer like on an outboard?

I removed the steel lines and only cylinder 1 is getting fuel, 2 and 5 seem to be trying, 3 and 4 dry

Again, any idea would be appreciated

Sal Escoto
76 300D

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  #2  
Old 12-07-2009, 02:23 PM
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when Air gets into the Fuel Injection lines between the Fuel Injection Pump and the Injectors it is hard to bleed out because the Injector is a spring loaded valve and the Aire wants to compress instead of moving past the Injector.
To bleed the Air from between the Fuel Injection Pump and the Injectors loosen the Injector nuts until fuel comes out from under them and then tighten them.

Send a pic of the Fuel Supply/Lift pump you now have on your Engine. You may be able to put a hand prime on that is already there.
(If there is a screw in Cap where the Hand Primer on the other Lift Pumps would be you can most likle add on a primer by removing the cap and replacing it with a primer.)
A way to find out is to copy the numbers that are on the little plate on the Lift Pump and take it to a Fuel Injection Shop and ask them if a Hand Primer is made it.

The Primer bulbs will last for 3-4 months and start leaking fuel and Air as they are not well made.

If you find a Hand Primer you might consider going to the Junk Yard and getting a newer style fuel filter housing as the old leaking Hand Primer will be a problem later.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 12-07-2009 at 02:39 PM.
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  #3  
Old 12-07-2009, 03:39 PM
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thank you for the respond, I had the 2 lines that are not passing any fuel off the IP, it's just dry. I have an extra IP and I will send some pictures before taking it to fuel injection shop, it's from a motor that I hope to finish rebuilding 1 day

Thanks
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2009, 10:27 PM
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Here is the lift pump, PN "FP/K22 MW 3" that I would like to see if I could add one with primer

Sal
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w115 Primer on Filter-300dw115lp.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 12-11-2009, 05:12 PM
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Update. Initially was concern about putting the primer where the nut was because the first time I looked there was a spring but after looking at the bottom of the nut, it had the same grove as the primer. So added the new primer and the "check valve" seems to be working. Better priming but still have air, no start. Too cold at the moment to be out there for now. I did replace all my copper washers
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  #6  
Old 12-11-2009, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sal Escoto View Post
Update. Initially was concern about putting the primer where the nut was because the first time I looked there was a spring but after looking at the bottom of the nut, it had the same grove as the primer. So added the new primer and the "check valve" seems to be working. Better priming but still have air, no start. Too cold at the moment to be out there for now. I did replace all my copper washers
Loosen the Fuel Injection Line Nuts up by the Injectors and crank the Engine and see of Fuel comes out there.
If it does tighten them up and try to start.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:46 PM
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You will need to purge the air out of the injection pump, and this takes a LONG time.

Best method is to operate the priming pump until you hear fuel hissing past the pressure relief in the fuel filter. Once the filter is full, you will be pushing fuel into the IP instead of more air, and you can then pump some more with a decent chance fuel will get into the plunger set.

If you had not replaced the copper washers, I would have suggested you remove several pressure valve holders and pump the priming pump until you get fuel flow out the plunger sets. This will prime at least those and let you get some engine power to save the starter.

Once you think you have fuel in the IP (and it's hard to tell since the originally translucent hard plastic lines are now opaque), loosen the injection lines at the injectors (not the IP) and crank until only fuel comes out, not fuel and air mixed. This will take a while -- crank 20-30 seconds and stop a few minutes, else you will roast the starter. Once you get one or two lines running only fuel, tighten them down and they should start to fire at least some. This will spin the engine faster and reduce the load on the starter.

Eventually it will start -- it will run on three cylinders, although not well -- you can tighten down all the lines left loose and it should be fine.

Replace all the hoses if any are original -- a suction line leaking air into the fuel pump will prevent starting until replaced.

Peter
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  #8  
Old 12-12-2009, 02:18 AM
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the weather this weekend is going to be in the 40s, Monday 60, so I'm thinking Monday. Yesterday, I loosened the pressure relief valve, the bigger nut and was getting air out. My concern is that there's a lip and air is trap but will follow the steps outline and cross some fingers. thank you again

Sal
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  #9  
Old 12-24-2009, 10:21 AM
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I appologize for not posting an update but there really wasn't any. Still no start. Getting closer with suggestions provided. Fuel lines 1 and 5 seems to be getting fuel okay, 2 and 4 iffy but 3 nothing and have tried starting when the temp was around 50. Still, I would think it getting enough fuel to get it going. compression is all around 290.

I like the look with the by-pass primer and the new primer on the lift pump is a bit of a pain to prime, it looks cleaner and I believe it's a better setup

For some background: I was rebuilding my original motor because it was left sitting for a long time and somewhere in that time someone killed the motor with what I believe was ether starter fluid. Crack rings and 1 piston had contacted metal possibly something from a pre-chamber or broken glow plug element. I did get it to start but smoke alot and had power issues. I had the head and block redone and the block received new sleeves. My problem was that I had the sleeves bored to 91, thinking that was stock but by piston are a tad smaller, so getting a new set of 5 pistons that are 90.97 @ $600.00 plus but my project on hold

I found a "good" motor for a 76 300D that the body was shot but the guy said the motor was too good to get scraped. I bought it and it sat around for a year. Too many projects, house repairs and painting, sailing and keeping my 85 300D running

Now I am really not sure what to do. The motor showed some strange waring on one of the lobes when I was adjusting the value and one of the oil cooler lines was repaired with clamps, so not sure if it ran dry or not. Because my car originally sat for 10 years, the fuel tank has issues but before getting it resealed I was testing my "new" motor by bypassing the fuel tank. Once the motor was back in, with not too much, I was able to get it started and to be honest, it sound real good for the 5 min or so that it ran, then my gallon fuel tank moved, the motor sucked in air and it's been dead ever since

I took apart the pump element for # 3 and putting back together with no spring, fuel shoots out, once the spring is in, nothing. one problem is the Delivery value has the copper washer on the top and according to my diagram, it should be seating on the washer, put it ran before and concern about doing more harm trying to change this. Since the transmission was out and dry, I don't think push-start is an option

My next step is to swap the IP put with the little room in these car, it looks like a real pain and it may still be a good IP with air in it. Another thing, I think it ran some biodiesel.

When I try starting it, still sound like there is a little combustion and yesterday I sprayed WD40, it sounded like it fired once on all cylinders then nothing again

Sorry for the book and any suggestions are always appreciated

Sal
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  #10  
Old 12-24-2009, 12:17 PM
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I would unplug the shut off valve vacuum line just to make sure that its is not trying to cut fuel supply while trying to start.
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1976 240D 190,000 miles
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1976 300D 195,300 miles
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  #11  
Old 12-27-2009, 11:26 PM
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got it starter. Not sure of the strange ware on the lope but it sounds good. Moving on taking care of my fuel tank. Thank you

Sal
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  #12  
Old 12-28-2009, 01:05 AM
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If one of the Camshaft Lobes is worn you need to replace the Camshaft and most likely the Cam Follower Arm. Can be done with a used one.
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  #13  
Old 12-28-2009, 08:53 AM
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So, even though it sound good, your suggestion is to change the cam? To me it looks like it was ran with the valve too tight. I have a spare. I guess it would be a good time to check the chain and change the valve stem seals. Thank you again

Sal
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2009, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sal Escoto View Post
So, even though it sound good, your suggestion is to change the cam? To me it looks like it was ran with the valve too tight. I have a spare. I guess it would be a good time to check the chain and change the valve stem seals. Thank you again

Sal
Thats what I would do; but it is up to you; remember I have not seen how worn the Cam Lobe is.

I have bought new Valve Stem Seals for mine but have not put them on yet.
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  #15  
Old 04-12-2010, 05:16 PM
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Just wanted to give the latest update, finally got my motor started. Still not sure what the problems was. Possibilities are bad Injection Pump, bad lift pump or simply real bad IP timing because bottom nut was missing. I did get the motor going prior to the IP swap a couple of time with a lot of effort but idle was high and no power. The prior owner of the motor was running used cooking oil, some what converted to bio-diesel but not sure to what extent. Once swapped, bleed the IP, bleed the lines and it started right up. I appreciates everyone's effort on this

Sal
85 300D Daily driver
76 300D Back from the dead!

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