Buying a 240D - What Year? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

barry123400 · #31 12-10-2009, 10:14 AM

Even if you do your own work and that is a good ideal on these older cars in general today. Also especially if you have never owned one before have the pre purchase inspection done.

You should locate a mechanic that is very familar with these models to do it. If things turn up you can bargain the price downward. After owning a few you may exclude this as by then you instinctivly know what you are getting into.

Or are prepared if nothing else. I agree it is usually quite a search to find a fairly good one in my opinion. Fortunatly I still think there are some out there.

They are old enough now if still in good condition to treat them well. I would not drive a southern car through our winter salt for example. Condition is everything but I would not buy one with a york compressor unless it was pristine and 1000.00.

AlexHart · #32 12-10-2009, 12:42 PM

I'll ask about the repairs/maintenance on the car and see what the guy says. Thanks, all.

Barry, I'll try to find a good mechanic out there. I think I know what to look for after buying and owning my 300CD, but I might just have a guy look at it, just in case.

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry123400

Condition is everything but I would not buy one with a york compressor unless it was pristine and 1000.00.

What do you mean by "york compressor"? Are you referring to the auto climate control unit or something else?

Thanks again.

75Sv1 · #33 12-10-2009, 01:06 PM

York is a manucature of A/C units. I think it mainly does comercial, resudential and industrial units of late. Many cars used a York AC unit in the 70's. My '75 Bricklin has one. I haven't had any problems with it, but I don't have a lot of miles on it either. From some sources, it takes about 15 hp to run. I haven't varified that though.
On the 81-up they used the GM R-4 or R-6. A don't have any experience with them. From the same source, they use about 10-12 hp. I hear overall a good A/C unit, but some of the rebuilt units have problems.
The newer A/C units, Sanden etc. use about 2-3 hp. At least from the same source. That kind of corralates to the MPG loss I get from using my AC on a Ford Contour. There is a dealer on E-Bay that makes a bracket or kit to replace the York compressor with a Sanden compressor. There is also a place that makes a kit to replace the R-4 with a Sanden. I also hear, that many of the Euro cars, that were imported, have AC. Some European aftermarket had bracket for Sanden units.
Tom

leathermang · #34 12-10-2009, 01:08 PM

The really old cars had an AC compressor which is mounted on a heavy frame at the front right TOP of the engine...
The later style compressor has multiple little pistons instead of the two in the York..
The York takes about twice the horsepower to run than the later ones...
and if you get a 240d you do not want to waste any horsepower...
LOL

Mark DiSilvestro · #35 12-10-2009, 05:55 PM

The Yorks are primitive but relatively durable AC compressors that carry a small oil reserve. They do take more power than the Delco R-4 used in the later 240D, but the R-4 has a poor record for durability, mainly because it's only lubrication comes from whatever oil is circulating with the refrigerant. Other advantages to the York include that it's possible to fit them with a larger pulley in order to take less engine power to run. Alternately, there are conversion-kits to readily replace the York with a very efficient Japanese Sanden compressor. I'm not aware of any similar kit availible to replace the Delco R-4 unit.

Happy Motoring, Mark

75Sv1 · #36 12-11-2009, 07:38 AM

Here's a place that sells a Sanden kit to replace the R-4:
http://www.europeancoolerair.com/nonac01.htm
I think its $560.
Tom

Mark DiSilvestro · #37 12-11-2009, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75Sv1

Here's a place that sells a Sanden kit to replace the R-4:
http://www.europeancoolerair.com/nonac01.htm
I think its $560.
Tom

I installed a rebuilt R4 in my 'nice' 240D and it's working OK so far - still on R12. Haven't had to do any AC repair so far on my Euro TD. It's also working OK on R12. My rusty 240D had a quickie R134 conversion and it works but not great, but I'm not spending to fix that AC. The ECA info will be handy if I need to upgrade the other two. Thanks.

Happy Motoring, Mark

75Sv1 · #38 12-11-2009, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

I installed a rebuilt R4 in my 'nice' 240D and it's working OK so far - still on R12. Haven't had to do any AC repair so far on my Euro TD. It's also working OK on R12. My rusty 240D had a quickie R134 conversion and it works but not great, but I'm not spending to fix that AC. The ECA info will be handy if I need to upgrade the other two. Thanks.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Mark,
I don't blame you or anyone, 'if the system works and your happy, then why fix it'. I have bought the complete kit, to change to R134a. Its about $1800. That is more than many of these cars will sell for. I haven't completed mine. Alo, I have taken a beating on this board for my view or action of putting this kind of money into this car. Still, would this amount seem ridiculous on a $10k to $20k car? I think not. When these cars are in 'collector' or museum grade, then they do fetch that kind of money. I was also replacing all the hoses, compressor, condensor, evaporator etc. It was close to that much. I actually, only had the compressor, condensor and a hose or two to buy, when I went with the kit. I took a bath on the parts.
I was driving mine as a daily driver, until the recent snow. I have a near rust free body. A bit rare in the Midwest. A very good interior, although carpet and drivers seat cover need replaced. So, by my reasoning, if I have $10K or such in it, and drive it for 5 years or more, then its paid for itself.
I think more than a few, 'duct tape' their cars together. So these car don't sell for much. That kind of hurts others value, if not in perfect comdition. I have seen this in other autos and machinery.
Tom

Mark DiSilvestro · #39 12-11-2009, 09:39 AM

The ACs in my nice 240D, and Euro TD appear to have minimal leakage. And both systems seem to have sufficient oil to keep the compressors quiet. So I plan on keeping them with R12 as long as possible.
OTOH, my rusty 240D's AC compressor is noisy, the system leaks, and cooling is weak on R134. But the car isn't worth fixing the AC. And as it was my first diesel, I already spent more on various other upgrades - replacement seats, passenger mirror, etc... before I found some less expensive used-parts sources outside the Washington DC area. Still, I'm happy I was able to transform this crusher-ready rustbucket into a fairly decent driver for under $1000.

Happy Motoring, Mark

AlexHart · #40 12-20-2009, 06:21 PM

Hi, all. As I was searching for my perfect 240D, I cam across a 1972 220D. Beautiful.

From what I can tell, the car is cosmetically perfect. No tears in the seats, fresh paint, minimal, almost zero rust. The car starts up perfectly, even when cold, and no smoke. It's a beautiful yellow/tan combination and it looks great. BUT, I think it needs motor mounts and the odometer only has 5 digits so there's no telling how many miles she has. And it's an auto. Also, the A/C compressor (the york type I think) has been completely removed and the A/C system bypassed. This is almost a plus for me because I'd rather not have A/C than have a system that never works. Other than that, everything looks good. It does leak some oil, maybe 5 - 10 oz. a week from what the owner is telling me.

Here's the kick: He wants $2500 for it. And he won't budge.

Thoughts/advice????

strelnik · #41 12-20-2009, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexHart

Got it. Thanks, guys. I know you can convert the plugs. It doesn't sound like a big project. I'm still curious about whether or not Mercedes changed the design at any point. I remember reading somewhere that the 240's with the new plugs also put out more power, which is a consideration for me.

Anything 1981 or newer- most power, greatest engineering for simple convenient trouble-free rides. The older ones are too, and you can buy pencil-type GPs for the old type for 19 bucks apiece and they work well.

Keep the ground solid and the wires clean, the valves adjusted,air out of the hoses, the oil changed, all fluids maintained....see you in 100K miles.

#42 12-20-2009, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexHart

Hi, all. As I was searching for my perfect 240D, I cam across a 1972 220D. Beautiful.

From what I can tell, the car is cosmetically perfect. No tears in the seats, fresh paint, minimal, almost zero rust. The car starts up perfectly, even when cold, and no smoke. It's a beautiful yellow/tan combination and it looks great. BUT, I think it needs motor mounts and the odometer only has 5 digits so there's no telling how many miles she has. And it's an auto. Also, the A/C compressor (the york type I think) has been completely removed and the A/C system bypassed. This is almost a plus for me because I'd rather not have A/C than have a system that never works. Other than that, everything looks good. It does leak some oil, maybe 5 - 10 oz. a week from what the owner is telling me.

Here's the kick: He wants $2500 for it. And he won't budge.

Thoughts/advice????

If it's really that good and you don't care about the AC, give him the $2500.

leathermang · #43 12-20-2009, 10:15 PM

One thing about having a 123 body style is that is the one with the highest production figures... so parts are easier and cheaper to find.
The other problem has to do with auto vs. manual transmissions.... the manual is by far the most reliable and can be fixed.... try finding someone to properly fix a 1972 auto Mercedes transmission... or find the correct parts...
My 1980 has the Bosch pencil plugs...

Sev · #44 12-21-2009, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vahe

Assuming that you are talking about 123 models, 1977 to 1983, these are all old cars, finding a clean, rust free model should be your prime consideration.
I have a 77 manual, the early models were fitted with York A/C compressors, I would avoid the early models just for this reason alone.

Vahe
240D 77 350K

wow the # of armos on this site is going up daily. haha. my plan. it's working.

why are yorks not desirable anyhow?