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  #16  
Old 12-19-2009, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sev View Post
tom, very 'ghetto', but clever way to keep the car running. man, i wonder how many fuel lines can break before these engines stop being drivable. two? three on a turbo? haha, no way
Some time around 1993 one of the Hard Lines on the Volvo developed a pin hole in it. I had a Fuel Injection shop make one.
Since then no more have leaked and I am still driving the car (I have all of the Vibration Clamps on it).

So if one leaks it does not follow that the all will leak.

Since leaking Hard Lines has happen to several members with newer Mercedes just last year alone; apparently the longer thinner Fuel Injection Hard Lines with there Plastic Vibration Clamps are not holding up as well as the older Fuel Injection Hard Lines do.
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  #17  
Old 12-20-2009, 02:53 AM
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Back in the early 80's we were driving the '68 220D in northern Wyoming, and after stopping to take pics I realized that we had a fuel smell beyond what might have been picked up on shoes at last fill-up. Raised the hood and the whole engine compartment was sopping. Started the engine and found the pinhole leak in one of the hard lines. Found the nearest dealer would not be open long enough to reach them, so got directions to nearest qualified mechanic. The offending line was taken off and brazed by a slightly reluctant mechanic. The line was then replaced, the engine primed and restarted, and no leak was found. Next day bought two new hard lines, as replacements were being bent differently some 12 years after the 220D had left the factory.

The new lines were never installed, as the brazed line continued to be leakless for the nearly 10 additional years the car was driven. All of the spacer / vibration dampeners were in place before and after the incident, so never suffered any fatigue cracking. Appears the pinhole was just a flaw in the metal of the hard line.
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  #18  
Old 12-20-2009, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Lycoming-8 View Post
Back in the early 80's we were driving the '68 220D in northern Wyoming, and after stopping to take pics I realized that we had a fuel smell beyond what might have been picked up on shoes at last fill-up. Raised the hood and the whole engine compartment was sopping. Started the engine and found the pinhole leak in one of the hard lines. Found the nearest dealer would not be open long enough to reach them, so got directions to nearest qualified mechanic. The offending line was taken off and brazed by a slightly reluctant mechanic. The line was then replaced, the engine primed and restarted, and no leak was found. Next day bought two new hard lines, as replacements were being bent differently some 12 years after the 220D had left the factory.

The new lines were never installed, as the brazed line continued to be leakless for the nearly 10 additional years the car was driven. All of the spacer / vibration dampeners were in place before and after the incident, so never suffered any fatigue cracking. Appears the pinhole was just a flaw in the metal of the hard line.
Just like water errodes things the Fuel going through the Hard Lines errodes the lines from the inside out and over time the Hard Lines sort of work harden and become stiffer.

I have even seen the Copper Delivery Valve Crush Washers errode though on several Fuel Injection Pumps (Bosch but not for Mercedes).
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2010, 07:04 PM
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Well, I've finally got around to doing this. We've had some pretty cold weather here in the UK recently, which has pretty much brought the country to a standstill. That combined with the Christmas holiday means I've only just got the delivery valve parts.

I did the job today, following the DIY on this website. All of the old O-rings were hard and square, so no wonder they were leaking. I replaced the copper washers by pulling the old one out and putting the new one in with tweezers. I clearly didnt clean the top of the pump enough because on each cylinder some dirt fell into the pump. I got around this by pouring diesel into each orifice to flush any dirt out. Wasted quite a lot of diesel, but it was worth it. I did the tighten to 30Nm and loosen off twice followed by a 35Nm torqueing sequence.

After I had it all tightened up it took probably a total of a minutes worth of cranking with the injector nuts cracked to get fuel though, after which I tightened them all up and it fired up - with no leaks!!

The idle is a little bit knocky, and it still nails between 1000-1500RPM like it always did, but above that it sings and I'm hoping the idle should quieten down with some driving. Now to clear the drive tomorrow so I can get it out and give it a good italian tuneup. I'll let you know how it goes.
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2010, 11:42 PM
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Quite a few members have report some nailing after the changed the Delivery Valve Crush Washers and O-rings. Most said the nailing goes away after about 200 miles of driving.
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  #21  
Old 01-10-2010, 12:15 PM
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Well, I've been out for a long (40 miles ish) drive, mostly 60-70mph, so it got properly warmed up.

Even after that, its still noisy at idle. But I'm not worried about that as I know it will all settle down and I have a 90mile per day commute so it wont take long.

I am worried because the top of the pump is still a little wet, although it looks to be more just beneath the injection line nuts than anything else, and when I lifted the bonnet (hood) when I returned home there is still a small amount of diesel burning off in a visible cloud. I didnt bother drying it after working on it as I assumed this would all burn off in a few miles. Do I just need to wait longer or is likely theres still a leak somewhere there? It seems starnge that all of the injection lines would leak.
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  #22  
Old 01-11-2010, 03:11 PM
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After my 90 mile commute today the smoking has stopped and the top of the pump has almost completely dried out. The clatter at idle has diminished somewhat, hopefully it will continue to calm down.

Strangely, I was sat in a queue of traffic for about 30 minutes with the engine warm and the idling after coming to a stop from 60mph, and the idle speed was about 1000RPM. It sayed like this for the whole time, but after I sped up again and got home it had gone back down to its normal ~600RPM. Could this have had anything to do with the 'breaking in' procedure?

Also, I've been messing around trying to get the ABS to work, and it looks like the pump is locked up. Whwn I drive off all of the lights dim and if I stop and immediately and look at the pump I can see smoke coming off it. Looks like its time to start trawling ebay. I've disconnected it for now.
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