i'll examine it in more detail tomorrow morning..

__________________
1981 300SD, 270K, two tank wvo system
1985 300D, 288K, california version
1985 300DT wagon, 315k, broken odo

There have been two designs of heat shield over the manufacturing run of this engine. One has a cross section that resembles a top hat, the other is shaped somewhat like a washer with some slightly machined features on the flat surfaces. It is not, unfortunately, that unusual to see this design change confuse people, resulting in one of each design in some cars, or two of the washer types if the first one is installed upside down.

What kind of heat shield did you pull out of that one?

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

I haven't done the job, but researched the shims since I thought I might have a pre-chamber leak.

My understanding is the standard ring is used for stock head/blocks. The additional thickness(es) would be used if the engine had been rebuilt and milled down. The thicker rings would be used to compensate for the removal of material.

There are pullers for rent on the tools link and someone was selling a DIY tool a few weeks back.

all the heat shields i pulled were the new style with the machined features on the top side and the beveled surface on the bottom side.

__________________
1981 300SD, 270K, two tank wvo system
1985 300D, 288K, california version
1985 300DT wagon, 315k, broken odo

Are the holes in centers of the heat shields you pulled the same diameter as the hole in the last cylinder's prechamber? If so, I would bet that is an upside down disc style heat shield.

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

yes they were all that size. i think you're right; i just don't know what to do to get it out. i tried prying it out using a screwdriver, that didnt work. and i tried also using an awl that had a 90 degree bend, it ended up with a 45 degree bend when i was through and that stuck heat shield didnt budge. i'm open to any and all suggestions before i pull the prechamber.

i'm thinking if i can't get it out i'll just replace the whole thing with a prechamber from a junkyard car. is this a good idea or should i get a new one? what does a new one cost? and if i'm going to replace one should i replace them all at the same time?

__________________
1981 300SD, 270K, two tank wvo system
1985 300D, 288K, california version
1985 300DT wagon, 315k, broken odo

Make a puller for the heat shield.

Find a socket that will bridge the injector hole.
Find a carriage bolt with a shank small enough to fit the hole of the heat shield.
Grind the head down so it will just fit into the heat shield's hole.
Put the head in the hole and then put a small nail in there too. Now the head cannot come back out.
Keep tension on the bolt so the nail does not fall in farther.
Put the socket over the bolt.
Put a washer or 2 on the bolt.
Put a nut on the bolt and tighten it to draw the heat shield out.

__________________
Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

Special Tool:
A three inch long lag bolt works great for pulling heatshields.

A quarter or half turn to seat it, then rock it until the shield breaks loose.

What is a heat shield?

Any piks?


P E H

He showed a pic of what the one side looks like, and where it goes. I have no real clue why it is called a heat shield, other than it keeps the actual flame front away from the injector body.

When I want a pic of a new part I typically look in FastLane. For example, here is a pic of the same side of a heat shield, only without the grime and oil and prechamber around it: http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1982-Mercedes--Benz---40d-Diesel--Injection&yearid=1982%40%401982&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6142%3AMBC%7C1489%3AED%7C10000129%40%40240D&catid=240706%40%40Diesel+Injection&subcatid=240710@@Injector+Heat+Shield&mode=PA

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Those are for the E300 turbo 1997.
They sit at the bottom of the injectors.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
E300TD year 2000. RUSTY SOLD
cost a fortune to maintain on the road
but run well on WVO
Second Merc died due to corrosion ( NOT rust) How can mercedes get away with that for so long?
Third lasted a month then went away...
Fourth now... Corroded too...

I'll try the two bolt suggestions tomorrow. I'm hoping the lag bolt will do the trick, that one sounds a lot easier than grinding a carriage bolt to make a puller.

The problem I see with just pulling the heat shield, however, is that damage appears to have already occurred to the pre-chamber as a result of this heat shield being crushed in a way it wasn't designed to be crushed. It seems to have deformed into the wall of the prechamber.

Is this a valid concern or is that crush washer made of much softer metal than the prechamber?

And once I get this figured out and my new injectors installed, with the new glow plugs, will my car actually start?

__________________
1981 300SD, 270K, two tank wvo system
1985 300D, 288K, california version
1985 300DT wagon, 315k, broken odo

Using a freezing spray may help to release the part by shrinking it. CRC makes a Freeze-Off mixed with pentrating oil, Loctite has something similar.

Both have low flashpoints, so reassembly right after using, and/or cycling a glow plug would probably be in the "bad idea" category.

The heat shield is a much softer metal than the prechamber.

FYI:
Here is a thread with better pictures..

OM 603 Injector heat shields
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/93265-om-603-injector-heat-shields.html#post622159

i tried both methods. the carriage bolt doesn't work, it just slips out, there's not enough of an edge because the hole is too small. the lag bolt didnt work either. the 5/16 was too loose and 3/8 was too tight.

is it really that big of a deal to just replace the prechamber? ive built the tools to do it. should i use a new part or a junkyard prechamber?

__________________
1981 300SD, 270K, two tank wvo system
1985 300D, 288K, california version
1985 300DT wagon, 315k, broken odo