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  #1  
Old 12-14-2009, 11:40 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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OE or hydraulic shop oil cooler hoses

Hello,

Went out to try my new wrench tool on my 82 300CD. It is a ground down box end wrench fr the oil cooler lines.

Tapped with just a little torque, just to see how much stress Ill need to put on it, and it let go! Granted, I had wet the fittings with a mixture of ATF and Lubecontrol LC20 a week before.

Didnt try for the bottom one, as it is the one in bad shape - very oily, and I had nice work clothes on.

Went to the oil filter housing, did the same thing - just wanted to torque each fitting a bit to see how tight they were. Got enough leverage on the lower one to crack it, upper one is tight.

So, Ill be able to do the hoses pretty easy. The oil cooler takes a 22mm wrench, and the oil filter housing a 24mm. I know I can get an ultra-thin 24mm wrench from a bicycle shop for less than $10. The 22mm, Im not sure.

But here is the big question... I have two new OE hoses. But, if the fittings on the old lines crack, is it actually smarter to get nice custom hydraulic lines fit, like described here:
Industrial Strength 617 Oil cooler lines - installed!

If they are half the cost of OE lines, I could return my new ones (but likely would need to pay 20% RMA), or sell them for a little discount to fastlane.

If having real hydraulic hoses that I can screw on will make the job much easier, I am inclined to take the easy route and make it easy on myself...

Doing it right, like in the link, is there any reason why I would want to stick with the OE lines?

Thanks for the insight!

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Last edited by JHZR2; 12-15-2009 at 07:59 AM.
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  #2  
Old 12-17-2009, 08:55 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,270
no thoughts???!?
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #3  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:11 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
You've already got the OE lines and you don't need to find a suitable hydraulic shop and screw around with an unknown solution.

The hydraulic shop outcome might work great...........or it might fail..........you never know.

The OE lines will probably outlast your ownership in the vehicle.
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  #4  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:41 PM
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"...is there any reason why I would want to stick with the OE lines?"

Yes, they might just last another 27+ years.
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  #5  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:46 PM
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but a high quality, THREADED, rubber section, made of similar materials may as well, and given that my intent, especially on the 240D is to have it for another 27 years, ease of replacement at that time is also on my mind. The threaded lines as was shown in the other thread are a clear winner there.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #6  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Hello,

Went out to try my new wrench tool on my 82 300CD. It is a ground down box end wrench fr the oil cooler lines.

Tapped with just a little torque, just to see how much stress Ill need to put on it, and it let go! Granted, I had wet the fittings with a mixture of ATF and Lubecontrol LC20 a week before.

Didnt try for the bottom one, as it is the one in bad shape - very oily, and I had nice work clothes on.

Went to the oil filter housing, did the same thing - just wanted to torque each fitting a bit to see how tight they were. Got enough leverage on the lower one to crack it, upper one is tight.

So, Ill be able to do the hoses pretty easy. The oil cooler takes a 22mm wrench, and the oil filter housing a 24mm. I know I can get an ultra-thin 24mm wrench from a bicycle shop for less than $10. The 22mm, Im not sure.

But here is the big question... I have two new OE hoses. But, if the fittings on the old lines crack, is it actually smarter to get nice custom hydraulic lines fit, like described here:
Industrial Strength 617 Oil cooler lines - installed!

If they are half the cost of OE lines, I could return my new ones (but likely would need to pay 20% RMA), or sell them for a little discount to fastlane.

If having real hydraulic hoses that I can screw on will make the job much easier, I am inclined to take the easy route and make it easy on myself...

Doing it right, like in the link, is there any reason why I would want to stick with the OE lines?

Thanks for the insight!
Not sure what kind of oil cooler lines you have there, but every one I have ever seen on a 617 has 27mm connections at both ends.....not 22 and 24...
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #7  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:55 PM
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
You've already got the OE lines and you don't need to find a suitable hydraulic shop and screw around with an unknown solution.

The hydraulic shop outcome might work great...........or it might fail..........you never know.

The OE lines will probably outlast your ownership in the vehicle.
It depends on the shop.....but, the ones I had made are so strong you could probably hang the engine from them and they would not fail.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #8  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:57 PM
Craig
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I wouldn't bother with anything except OEM lines. My Indy won't use anything else, apparently he ended up buying an engine for a customer when an aftermarket line that he installed failed.
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  #9  
Old 12-17-2009, 10:10 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
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The oil cooler lines themselves take a 27mm or 1 1/16" wrench, yes.

But the "other side" of the connection can have a wrench fit on to counteract the torque and protect the connected item. They are 22 and 24. Do a search and others have found the same.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #10  
Old 12-17-2009, 10:11 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
I wouldn't bother with anything except OEM lines. My Indy won't use anything else, apparently he ended up buying an engine for a customer when an aftermarket line that he installed failed.

I suppose the other question then that I should verify are, "is the fastlane-sourced hose trustworthy"? Or, should I get a true, dealer-sourced, OE hose?
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #11  
Old 12-17-2009, 10:16 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
I suppose the other question then that I should verify are, "is the fastlane-sourced hose trustworthy"? Or, should I get a true, dealer-sourced, OE hose?
I would call and ask which hoses he has available, he may have hoses from the same source as the dealer. I've never had one fail, but this isn't a part I would mess around with to save a few dollars.
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2009, 10:32 PM
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Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Hello,

Went out to try my new wrench tool on my 82 300CD. It is a ground down box end wrench fr the oil cooler lines.

Tapped with just a little torque, just to see how much stress Ill need to put on it, and it let go! Granted, I had wet the fittings with a mixture of ATF and Lubecontrol LC20 a week before.

Didn't try for the bottom one, as it is the one in bad shape - very oily, and I had nice work clothes on.

Went to the oil filter housing, did the same thing - just wanted to torque each fitting a bit to see how tight they were. Got enough leverage on the lower one to crack it, upper one is tight.

So, Ill be able to do the hoses pretty easy. The oil cooler takes a 22mm wrench, and the oil filter housing a 24mm. I know I can get an ultra-thin 24mm wrench from a bicycle shop for less than $10. The 22mm, Im not sure.

But here is the big question... I have two new OE hoses. But, if the fittings on the old lines crack, is it actually smarter to get nice custom hydraulic lines fit, like described here:
Industrial Strength 617 Oil cooler lines - installed!

If they are half the cost of OE lines, I could return my new ones (but likely would need to pay 20% RMA), or sell them for a little discount to fastlane.

If having real hydraulic hoses that I can screw on will make the job much easier, I am inclined to take the easy route and make it easy on myself...

Doing it right, like in the link, is there any reason why I would want to stick with the OE lines?

Thanks for the insight!
Note: Return Policy.

IMO: you have the OE lines in hand to fix the issue, they should last 27 years, waiting may cost an engine.

The old lines must be removed in either case.
OE lines go directly on = job done. (Two hours or less).
Fabricating, you must find a shop to make the hose and weld the fitting on each tube, then tweak it to fit the car again, if nothing goes wrong. (plan three - five days depending on the shop).
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2009, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Note: Return Policy.

IMO: you have the OE lines in hand to fix the issue, they should last 27 years, waiting may cost an engine.

The old lines must be removed in either case.
OE lines go directly on = job done. (Two hours or less).
Fabricating, you must find a shop to make the hose and weld the fitting on each tube, then tweak it to fit the car again, if nothing goes wrong. (plan three - five days depending on the shop).
i dont know what shop you use, but if it takes 3 days to make those its time to find a new one. the most time will be on the steel lines. the rubber lines i could make in under an hour.
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2009, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaysob View Post
i dont know what shop you use, but if it takes 3 days to make those its time to find a new one. the most time will be on the steel lines. the rubber lines i could make in under an hour.
Welding the fittings is subject to the shop work load = your car is down without lines.
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2009, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Welding the fittings is subject to the shop work load = your car is down without lines.

i guess im used to it out here, not a whole lot going on at the hose supply stores.

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