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  #16  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
The first place to look is at the windshield gasket. Unless it is most unusual it will be leaking like a sieve.

Then you can choose to replace the gasket or clean the crack very well and caulk it with black silicone.
Absolutely!

--EVERY W123 I have owned or seen has had the rear windshield seal leaking. It runs down inside the trunk, fills the cheeks each side and also flows forwards along the gap between wheel-arch inner and outer to the rear chassis where it meets the sills. From there it travels into the rear floor-pans....

Ive not seen a W123 that had wet FRONT carpets yet,--even when the drain-holes under the hinges blocked....

(Most UK cars corrode the rear chassis at this point, up near the spring-mounts, a Real PITA to fix, as it takes the inner wheel-arch/chassis with it--'Orrible job, often making the car a scrapper)

Best way is by new rear screen-seal rubber--although this can be expensive, and a bit fiddly. Next best way is to dry the rubber-seal out WELL and use a Good Silicone bathroom sealer both on the glass side And the body side of the seal.

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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post
Absolutely!

--EVERY W123 I have owned or seen has had the rear windshield seal leaking. It runs down inside the trunk, fills the cheeks each side and also flows forwards along the gap between wheel-arch inner and outer to the rear chassis where it meets the sills. From there it travels into the rear floor-pans....

Ive not seen a W123 that had wet FRONT carpets yet,--even when the drain-holes under the hinges blocked....

(Most UK cars corrode the rear chassis at this point, up near the spring-mounts, a Real PITA to fix, as it takes the inner wheel-arch/chassis with it--'Orrible job, often making the car a scrapper)

Best way is by new rear screen-seal rubber--although this can be expensive, and a bit fiddly. Next best way is to dry the rubber-seal out WELL and use a Good Silicone bathroom sealer both on the glass side And the body side of the seal.
I've been battling a leak in my car. I don't have time and money to repair the leaky seal. So I used a hook and pulled all of the old sealant out. Absolutely disgusting, it had the feeling of wet clay and it hadn't rained a in few days.

I did my terrible seal job and no now more leaks! I noticed that MB didn't apply any sealant to the very top of the rear window frame. I sealed it all up and waited a couple of days for it to cure.

Definitely a problem that I no longer need to worry about. It was pooling in the rear footwells. The seal on the rear window however looks like crap because I don't have a steady caulking hand
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2009, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Drilling a hole in the very well protected floor pan introduces a foothold for rust to start. I would not do that.
My thought exactly. I would be very hesitant to introduce bare metal (that has been sealed up nicely) to the elements.
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  #19  
Old 12-18-2009, 05:30 PM
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NO, NO, NO! Do not use silicone caulking for sealing against automotive paint/metal. It will cause corrosion. Your local MB dealer or online has the correct product to use. Its MB part# A 001 989 31 20 Replace the seal, use a real MB seal, and then finish it off with the MB sealant. It will not leak again. Installing a seal is not difficult just tedious and having a friend or two to help makes it much better. That and a little Dawn detergent and water in a spray bottle for lubrication. Pops right in. RT
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  #20  
Old 12-18-2009, 07:27 PM
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But the silicone will not hurt the glass.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #21  
Old 12-19-2009, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
But the silicone will not hurt the glass.
You are correct. However the MB sealant is extremely aggressive, much more so than silicone. Works great on the glass/seal side as well. Black in color and matte finish when dry so it looks correct. RT
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  #22  
Old 05-20-2010, 08:39 PM
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How to fix corrosion on firewall?

Have identified corroded area on the firewall from the battery leaking, flooding front passenger floor on my '84 300D. Had same issue w/ an '83 that a body mechanic fixed for me...possible to fix w/out welding?

Thnx.
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  #23  
Old 05-20-2010, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtrhop View Post
Have identified corroded area on the firewall from the battery leaking, flooding front passenger floor on my '84 300D. Had same issue w/ an '83 that a body mechanic fixed for me...possible to fix w/out welding?

Thnx.
It depends on how bad your holes are, but here's how I repaired mine on both sides without welding:

Hood Hinge Drain Rust Repair

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