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  #31  
Old 12-17-2009, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
I had to use a combo of the AZ press and a 10 ton press (located at work), since I did not have access to the proper tool. The proper tool was $90 last time I checked. Next time...I will buy the proper tool. IT took all freaking weekend to do the job. If I had the proper tool in the beginning, the hardest part would have been repacking the bearings.

The AZ tool would have been fine if, and its a BIG if, the AZ tool would have fit flush on the outer lip of the ball joint.

The $90 tool that you need to use with a Hydraulic Press is now a $99 tool; in the 1st pic and the other tool in the 2nd pic is over $300.
The $99 tool comes with a big punch to drive out the Ball Joint.
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Advanced Auto Ball Joint Press Tool-jtc-ball-joint-tool-1.jpg   Advanced Auto Ball Joint Press Tool-ball-joint-tool-zdmak.jpg  
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  #32  
Old 12-17-2009, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dannym View Post
I determine by the fact that I myself and numerous other people have used the Autozone press without damaging the joint.
Did you measure the "before" and "after" rotational torque of the joint? If you did not, you probably have no idea whether damage did or did not occur. That would suggest that you are just speculating.

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Originally Posted by dannym View Post

You however base your comments on speculation since you yourself have never used the Autozone press.
Contrary to your speculation, I have used a generic ball joint press on numerous domestic vehicles for which it is appropriately suited. When I attempted to use one on my W123, it became immediately apparent that it was poorly suited to the task. It doesn't align the joint properly and it is impossible to use the sleeve adapters so that pressure is applied at the flange, as intended.

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The bottom line is if your going to make a comment base it on facts not speculation.
Sometimes, you don't need to poke a sharp stick in your eye to conclude that it might not be a good idea.
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  #33  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:46 PM
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I forgot to add this to my previous Comments.
As far as I know with the exception of Punch to drive out the Ball Joint there is no special tool made for removing the Ball Joint from the Steering Knuckle.
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  #34  
Old 12-17-2009, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
The $90 tool that you need to use with a Hydraulic Press is now a $99 tool; in the 1st pic and the other tool in the 2nd pic is over $300.
The $99 tool comes with a big punch to drive out the Ball Joint.

In the first picture, I see some chinese chicken scratch on the paper. Is that a harbor freight tool?

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

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We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #35  
Old 12-17-2009, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
The perks of Californian vehicles.



.

It never rains in Bakersfield, there is so much oil there, nothing can rust .


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #36  
Old 12-19-2009, 02:06 PM
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Alright, I've got the old ball joint out. Braced the long end against the base of a basketball hoop, the steering joint against a spare wheel on the ground, I taped a big socket to the BJ and it came out pretty easily with a few hits with an 8 lb sledge (like I was splitting wood, whoever made that analogy). This was after heating it up and letting it cool three times. Now for the new one, I'm think of using the generic tool and removing the grease boot. Anyone have any good tips?
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  #37  
Old 12-19-2009, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
Alright, I've got the old ball joint out. Braced the long end against the base of a basketball hoop, the steering joint against a spare wheel on the ground, I taped a big socket to the BJ and it came out pretty easily with a few hits with an 8 lb sledge (like I was splitting wood, whoever made that analogy). This was after heating it up and letting it cool three times. Now for the new one, I'm think of using the generic tool and removing the grease boot. Anyone have any good tips?
Good job! I have taken the 2 steering knuckles off from my 240D parts car as spares and will try to get the ball joint off like what you have done. (splitting wood analog was from me).
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  #38  
Old 12-19-2009, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
In the first picture, I see some chinese chicken scratch on the paper. Is that a harbor freight tool?

Charlie
It is made over there some place. However, that is not my picture. It is a picture either from one of the Members who did a write up on it (I think it is part of the DIY) or from one of the eBay Sellers that Sells them.

Another thought on China or other imported tools is that the Tube Ball Joint Installer was a good idea. I have seen some inovative tools from that area of the world; despite the quality issue.

Besides, eBay there is 2 other internet selles. But, the cost more from them.

Unfortunatly look at the choices:
Buy the $99 tube type ball joint installer and you need to have a Hydraulic press or take it someplace and have the Ball Joint pressed in.

Pay the $300+ (or use our too rental program) for the correct tool

Just pay a shop to install the Ball Joints

Atempt to do the job with the Generic Ball Joint Press. The good news here is that places like Auto Zone rent it for free as long as you return it to them. So if it does not work and no damage is done you have only lost some time.

Added: To the best of my knowlege Harbor Freight does not sell the Tube Type Ball Joint Installer.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 12-19-2009 at 04:28 PM.
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  #39  
Old 12-19-2009, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
It is made over there some place. However, that is not my picture. It is a picture either from one of the Members who did a write up on it (I think it is part of the DIY) or from one of the eBay Sellers that Sells them.

Another thought on China or other imported tools is that the Tube Ball Joint Installer was a good idea. I have seen some inovative tools from that area of the world; despite the quality issue.

Besides, eBay there is 2 other internet selles. But, the cost more from them.

Unfortunatly look at the choices:
Buy the $99 tube type ball joint installer and you need to have a Hydraulic press or take it someplace and have the Ball Joint pressed in.

Pay the $300+ (or use our too rental program) for the correct tool

Just pay a shop to install the Ball Joints

Atempt to do the job with the Generic Ball Joint Press. The good news here is that places like Auto Zone rent it for free as long as you return it to them. So if it does not work and no damage is done you have only lost some time.
I'm going to try it with the generic press like deliveryvalve. I don't see why it wouldn't work. I think I might do a little practice with the old ball joint, the new one won't be here til monday anyway. A question on the wheel hub: do I need to replace that seal? I think I do, but just making sure.
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  #40  
Old 12-19-2009, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
I'm going to try it with the generic press like deliveryvalve. I don't see why it wouldn't work. I think I might do a little practice with the old ball joint, the new one won't be here til monday anyway. .....
Make sure the press is not going to put pressure on the parts towards the middle past the out lip. If it will, then you will then certainly deform the joint and I would suggest finding another solution.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
A question on the wheel hub: do I need to replace that seal? I think I do, but just making sure
.....
You do not have to replace the seal on the hub if you are not going to re-pack the bearings and they are not harden and cracked. But if you do re-pack them, then most likely you'll need new ones as they can get tweaked and not be reusable when removed.


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  #41  
Old 12-19-2009, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
I'm going to try it with the generic press like deliveryvalve. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
Would you mind measuring the before and after rotational torque of the stud and posting the results?
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  #42  
Old 12-19-2009, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Would you mind measuring the before and after rotational torque of the stud and posting the results?
Aw jeez. Bit of noob hear, so would you mind explaining exactly how I would go about measuring said torque?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Make sure the press is not going to put pressure on the parts towards the middle past the out lip. If it will, then you will then certainly deform the joint and I would suggest finding another solution.
It's putting pressure on the upper ridge of the lip, it looks like what you did in that picture. It's not on anything that moves.
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  #43  
Old 12-19-2009, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
Aw jeez. Bit of noob hear, so would you mind explaining exactly how I would go about measuring said torque?
Use an old fashioned torque wrench with a needle. Same as you would use to check the rotational torque on a pinion before removing the nut.
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  #44  
Old 12-19-2009, 06:49 PM
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I watched when the shop installed mine. They used emery cloth on the knuckle ball joint seat to clean off any corrosion. They had a home made press similar to the Mercedes tool and was very careful to turn the screw a few turns, then look to make sure that it is not going in crooked, hammer all around on the outside of the knuckle to relief any stress, turn a few more turns, look, hammer , look hammer till it is fully seated. You may or may not have to remove the ball joint boot depending on the tool you're using so that it's not damaged.
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  #45  
Old 12-21-2009, 10:08 AM
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I just used the C clamp with he adapter that had an angle on it. No damage to boots and the first attempt was crooked but I got the rest done without a problem.
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