Yes, I know, another ball joint thread, but I can't seem to find out how to use the Advanced Auto Ball Joint tool. The knuckle kind of gets in the way, and I don't know which way to press it out. Press from the bottom or the top?

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

You cannot "press it out" the ball joint is removed from the spindle with it clamped in a vise and a suitable hammer and drift is used to pound the boll joint out! A suitable hammer is likely a 6 pounder which you will swing like a baseball bat! A suitable drift will likely be a large heavy socket!

I have a socket which has a two foot long wire handle welded to it, put the socket on the bottom of the ball joint holding it there with your left hand and then applying the hammer from overhead with the right hand, repeat as necessary!

Why can't I press it out? And I still don't know which way to force it out.

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

It comes out from bottom to top. You would do well to follow the good advice in post #2.

Then, when it's time to install the new joint, find someone with the proper MB press and forget the generic press.

Reality! Because the Chinese recycled chevy tool you're trying to use is incapable of exerting enough force to do so! Not to mention that the tool you're attempting to make use of will not allow you to position it to apply any force that could move the ball joint from the spindle. The ball joint needs to be forced from below, upwards and outwards from the cup of the spindle where it resides. There is no way to position the head of the tool so that it makes contact with the spindle as you would apply forcing power to the bottom of the ball joint.

Below is a pic Deliveryvalve sent me showing how he removed his Ball Joint. I added the Yellow Arrow to show the direction it comes out.
He is using a Socket as the Punch to knock out the Joint.

Note that the Steering Knuckle is upside down. The Factory Service Manual shows it upside down but with part of it held in a Vice so that you can Beat the Joint out.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Definitely needs to be hammered out.

The Autozone press will only press the joint in.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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I used a large hydraulic press at work to do this. I was amazed at how much force was needed. Something like 10 -12 tons. If you can't get it out with a hammer let me know. I can bring it to work and get it out for you.

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81 300D Turbo 190K sold
83 300sd 319K best $500 I ever spent-daily driverw/ 2 tank WVO set up

sometimes a little bit of heat helps - be careful, and a bigger hammer!! Be careful not to bend the Knuckle !! I supported the knuckle with a piece of heavy walled steam pipe located so that the crook ball joint slid into it. I had previously tried to use a 15 ton press, waste of time! it was ok for pressing the new joint in.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

And only then by pressing on the wrong part of the joint, which all but guarantees that the joint will be at least somewhat deformed in the process.

Sorry but this statement is false.

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

By what measure did you determine that? Do you have the ability to determine that there has been no deformation to an installed part? (Some deformation occurs every time an interference-fit part is installed.)

Could you provide a picture of the generic press being used in such a way that is applies pressure to the ball joint flange? Every example that I have seen shows the press applying pressure to top of the housing in a way that is guaranteed to deform the part. The deformation may not be easily detected by the average shade tree mechanic, but it occurs nonetheless.

I have personally seen one ball joint that was completely loose (meaning that the ball flopped around in the socket) following installation with a generic press. That may have been an extreme case, but there is no doubt that some deformation occurs in any case.

I edited another pic Deliveryvalve sent me to blow up only the part of his pic I wanted.
Also I do not remember where he got the Press.
The thing is that when you use Generic Tools to do a job you nave to work with more care and have to make a decision if you want to take a chance on the tool or not.
If you see that the Generic Press is not pressing the Ball Joint in straight you have to stop before you cause dmage.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When I did mine I knocked out the old joint the way it shows in the picture posted above but I did my best to suport the steering knuckle so it wouldn't get damaged. To press in the new ball joint I took the knuckle and joint to a local indi shop that had the factory tool and they charged around $25 each but after watching them do it I was glad to pay them.

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1983 300SD
200000miles

I did resort to the torch for removal once. burn the center out of it and hit it w/ a hammer. (consider removing the boot first, and cleaning most of the grease out of the joint- it still stinks so bad you dont want to do this enclosed)

I used the cheeepo press w/ lemforders 18 months(35K)ago, and it did the job, but now the last week or so I am hearing what sounds very much like a squeaking BJ. maybe its not a BJ( too cold to bother looking), maybe its a bad part, maybe I did it wrong, maybe the tool shortened the lifespan.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.