Your pics does not show the "1/2 in. drive socket with a pvc pipe and another metal pipe as cheaters". Care to explain what you did? Or better yet, pics of what you did? I am especially curious how the pvc pipe was used.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I'm in NY right now, I can put up pics when I get back if you still want 'em, but it's pretty simple. I just put the handle of the ratchet into the pvc pipe and the big metal pipe into the other side. The pvc pipe was just there because the ratchet handle didn't fit into the long metal pipe. It ended up being about 3 ft. long and I was lifting up the whole table. Slowly but surely.

__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

Ok now I understand. You used the pipes on the C clamp handle as leverage. The C clamp is just a screw right? Is there a ratchet mechanism in there?

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

The C clamp is just a screw, with a 22 mm hex on the end. I just threw the socket ratcheting wrench on it (I think you can see that in the second pic) and attached the cheaters.

__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

I do not think it could come out unless the Spring Broke.

You have the Spring pushing the Ball Joint into the Knuckle on the top and the weight of the Car pushing the Knuckle up against the Ball Joint from below.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Alright, putting everything back together. I repacked the bearings to the best of my ability, using billybob's technique and the 1/3 turn. Brake caliper back on and trying to put the pads back in: push one piston in so I can fit the pad in, the other piston comes out a little, fine, put the pad in and start pushing the other piston in--> brake fluid starts dripping. Can't see where it's dripping from, not pistons, not hose, not the reservoir. Help!

__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

i found the best tool for ball joints is the factory tool or a tool i bought off ebay which does them less than 1 minute.

__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

.............if you can't see where it's dripping from............we certainly can't see it............

Upon further inspection, t'was coming from the left piston. After much butchery, I managed to open the bleed screw and put the pads in with that open, bled the brakes and stomped on the pedal and didn't see any seepage. If there is a leak, it's minor and can at least be put off for a little bit. Hopefully it was just a false alarm.

__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

Great success! Took a drive around the block, tracks just like before, no drifting whilst braking, no leakage from the caliper. How will I know if I packed the bearings incorrectly?

__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

Read the accident investigation report.

Like this?

accident investigation, wheel bearing grease
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us&q=accident+investigation%2C+wheel+bearing+grease+&btnG=Search&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

Here is a right up on removing the ball joint I did - post three has the pics of driving out the ball joint:

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)

__________________
~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net