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-   -   Advanced Auto Ball Joint Press Tool (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/267618-advanced-auto-ball-joint-press-tool.html)

JEBalles 12-16-2009 08:20 PM

Advanced Auto Ball Joint Press Tool
 
Yes, I know, another ball joint thread, but I can't seem to find out how to use the Advanced Auto Ball Joint tool. The knuckle kind of gets in the way, and I don't know which way to press it out. Press from the bottom or the top?

Billybob 12-16-2009 08:32 PM

You cannot "press it out" the ball joint is removed from the spindle with it clamped in a vise and a suitable hammer and drift is used to pound the boll joint out! A suitable hammer is likely a 6 pounder which you will swing like a baseball bat! A suitable drift will likely be a large heavy socket!

I have a socket which has a two foot long wire handle welded to it, put the socket on the bottom of the ball joint holding it there with your left hand and then applying the hammer from overhead with the right hand, repeat as necessary!

JEBalles 12-16-2009 08:53 PM

Why can't I press it out? And I still don't know which way to force it out.

tangofox007 12-16-2009 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles (Post 2362422)
Why can't I press it out? And I still don't know which way to force it out.

It comes out from bottom to top. You would do well to follow the good advice in post #2.

Then, when it's time to install the new joint, find someone with the proper MB press and forget the generic press.

Billybob 12-16-2009 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles (Post 2362422)
Why can't I press it out? And I still don't know which way to force it out.

Reality! Because the Chinese recycled chevy tool you're trying to use is incapable of exerting enough force to do so! Not to mention that the tool you're attempting to make use of will not allow you to position it to apply any force that could move the ball joint from the spindle. The ball joint needs to be forced from below, upwards and outwards from the cup of the spindle where it resides. There is no way to position the head of the tool so that it makes contact with the spindle as you would apply forcing power to the bottom of the ball joint.

Diesel911 12-17-2009 02:07 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles (Post 2362422)
Why can't I press it out? And I still don't know which way to force it out.

Below is a pic Deliveryvalve sent me showing how he removed his Ball Joint. I added the Yellow Arrow to show the direction it comes out.
He is using a Socket as the Punch to knock out the Joint.

Note that the Steering Knuckle is upside down. The Factory Service Manual shows it upside down but with part of it held in a Vice so that you can Beat the Joint out.

dannym 12-17-2009 07:08 AM

Definitely needs to be hammered out.

The Autozone press will only press the joint in.

Danny

Paulc66t 12-17-2009 07:44 AM

I used a large hydraulic press at work to do this. I was amazed at how much force was needed. Something like 10 -12 tons. If you can't get it out with a hammer let me know. I can bring it to work and get it out for you.

layback40 12-17-2009 07:57 AM

sometimes a little bit of heat helps - be careful, and a bigger hammer!! Be careful not to bend the Knuckle !! I supported the knuckle with a piece of heavy walled steam pipe located so that the crook ball joint slid into it. I had previously tried to use a 15 ton press, waste of time! it was ok for pressing the new joint in.

tangofox007 12-17-2009 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym (Post 2362768)

The Autozone press will only press the joint in.

And only then by pressing on the wrong part of the joint, which all but guarantees that the joint will be at least somewhat deformed in the process.

dannym 12-17-2009 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007 (Post 2362789)
And only then by pressing on the wrong part of the joint, which all but guarantees that the joint will be at least somewhat deformed in the process.

Sorry but this statement is false.

tangofox007 12-17-2009 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym (Post 2362882)
Sorry but this statement is false.

By what measure did you determine that? Do you have the ability to determine that there has been no deformation to an installed part? (Some deformation occurs every time an interference-fit part is installed.)

Could you provide a picture of the generic press being used in such a way that is applies pressure to the ball joint flange? Every example that I have seen shows the press applying pressure to top of the housing in a way that is guaranteed to deform the part. The deformation may not be easily detected by the average shade tree mechanic, but it occurs nonetheless.

I have personally seen one ball joint that was completely loose (meaning that the ball flopped around in the socket) following installation with a generic press. That may have been an extreme case, but there is no doubt that some deformation occurs in any case.

Diesel911 12-17-2009 12:28 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007 (Post 2362892)
By what measure did you determine that? Do you have the ability to determine that there has been no deformation to an installed part? (Some deformation occurs every time an interference-fit part is installed.)

Could you provide a picture of the generic press being used in such a way that is applies pressure to the ball joint flange? Every example that I have seen shows the press applying pressure to top of the housing in a way that is guaranteed to deform the part. The deformation may not be easily detected by the average shade tree mechanic, but it occurs nonetheless.

I have personally seen one ball joint that was completely loose (meaning that the ball flopped around in the socket) following installation with a generic press. That may have been an extreme case, but there is no doubt that some deformation occurs in any case.


I edited another pic Deliveryvalve sent me to blow up only the part of his pic I wanted.
Also I do not remember where he got the Press.
The thing is that when you use Generic Tools to do a job you nave to work with more care and have to make a decision if you want to take a chance on the tool or not.
If you see that the Generic Press is not pressing the Ball Joint in straight you have to stop before you cause dmage.

Phil 12-17-2009 12:47 PM

When I did mine I knocked out the old joint the way it shows in the picture posted above but I did my best to suport the steering knuckle so it wouldn't get damaged. To press in the new ball joint I took the knuckle and joint to a local indi shop that had the factory tool and they charged around $25 each but after watching them do it I was glad to pay them.

mobetta 12-17-2009 12:58 PM

I did resort to the torch for removal once. burn the center out of it and hit it w/ a hammer. (consider removing the boot first, and cleaning most of the grease out of the joint- it still stinks so bad you dont want to do this enclosed)

I used the cheeepo press w/ lemforders 18 months(35K)ago, and it did the job, but now the last week or so I am hearing what sounds very much like a squeaking BJ. maybe its not a BJ( too cold to bother looking), maybe its a bad part, maybe I did it wrong, maybe the tool shortened the lifespan.


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