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#1
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The Wiki DIY 617 turbo return tube method is wrong....
I read through the 617 turbo return tube wiki today before I replaced the seals on mine, and discovered that the method of putting the pipes in place in the wiki is a very unwise way to do it.
The wiki recommends attaching hose clamps to the pipe to use to pry against to "shove" the pipe down into the seal. The correct way of doing it is way easier. -Clean up pipe. -Put on new O-rings -Lube lower o-ring and the flange seal with some oil -Slip flange seal over the tube so the end with the o-ring is all the way through -Place pipe into opening on the engine, gently press into place, assist the flange seal into the opening with your fingers (easy) That's it! -Pull lower pipe at an angle and shove the upper pipe into place -Press the two pieces together -Insert new paper gasket at upper pipe -Fasten pipe to turbo Done No prying required. To get it out I used a 1/2" drive extension up through the hole (yes I removed the oil pan, this is highly recommended so you can clean out the opening and prevent junk/old seal chunks from falling into the pan) and pounded it out. If MB intended you to have to forcefully shove the pipe in place it would say so. In reality it takes very little force and is quite easy. My turbo return tube is now completely dry! It is a lot harder to get out than in. Cutting/chipping away the old flange seal is necessary to get it free enough to come out.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#2
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About to go through this process this week, so good timing.
I need some clarification though: -Slip flange seal over the tube so the end with the o-ring is all the way through -Place pipe into opening on the engine, gently press into place, assist the flange seal into the opening with your fingers (easy) That's it! On the first point: 'over the tube' - Where does the flange seal finally end up being? Over the tube and keep sliding it until......? I'm guessing that what you mean is that the flange seal is sitting in the middle of the tube at this point (not it's final resting spot) 'end with the o-ring' - I thought both ends already have o-rings on them at this point? On the second point: I'm guessing that you mean to place the pipe into the opening from the bottom side (underneath) of the oil sump and start to pull the pipe UP from underneath? Then, when the flange seal starts to make its way through the hole, keep pulling the tube up and get the flange seal to finally work its way up until it's seated in the correct spot?
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Chris 1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.) 2018 Honda Civic Sport 2018 Honda CRV LX 2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP) 2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold) 1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired) 1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired) 1976 Porsche 914 (Sold) 1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP) |
#3
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Nope.....the "turbo grommet":
Ends up on the tube itself, so the lower o-ring and flared end are sticking out the bottom and the grommet is simply on the tube itself. Then (from above) you just lower them into the hole on the engine and snug them in place. That's it. Both ends of the lower tube are the same and both have an o-ring. And the tube will only fit into the top of the opening. Here is a schematic of how it all fits together:
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) Last edited by whunter; 12-22-2009 at 09:30 PM. Reason: attached pictures |
#4
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Okay...think I've got it.
Only clarification I need now is in regards to how the "Contoured Sealing Ring" / turbo grommet is seated on the tube before you begin attempting to put the tube in place. Right now, I've got the tube, and both o-rings are in their groove. I've already slid the grommet onto the tube such that it's sitting 'over' one of the o-rings. It appears that on the inside of the grommet, there's a groove where the o-ring should be seated once it's fitted correctly. That's where I have it now. Is this correct? From this point, I should just be able (with the help of of a little oil) to slip the tube (grommet end first) into the "oil pan upper half" drain hole, right? |
#5
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Quote:
So just push the tube farther through the contoured sealing ring until the whole part with the o-ring is through, and that is where it should be. Then place it on the engine and gently push the contoured sealing ring into the opening like in the diagram, then install the upper section, and you're done!
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#6
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Good deal! Really glad I learned this now....rather than later. I was positive that the grommet was 'made' to fit over the o-ring....it sure as heck looks like it should be this way - apparently not though.
I can see now, clearly, in the picture you posted how the tube appears to bottom-out, when inserted into the drain hole, and uses the o-ring to make that sealed connection...which means the grommet HAS to be a little higher up...forming a second seal on the top side of the drain hole. |
#7
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is it really necessary to pull the pan off?
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1981 300SD 512k OM603 |
#8
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No, but you have to be sure that no rubber pieces shear off the old grommet and enter the pan. When I replaced mine I was prepared to pull the pan, but even though the bottom of the grommet came off in the bore, I was able to remove it with needle nose pliers.
I had to seat the lower tube with slight taps before it would seat completely. Once the assembly was completely installed and bolted, I pulled the lower tube up slightly until it mated completely into the upper tube. |
#9
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After doing it with pulling the pan, I am glad I did, you'd be amazed at the amount of dirt in the hole aside from chunks of dried out seal. I spent a while just cleaning up the hole before I put it all back together.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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