603 front main seal...

[Hit Man X]

Seems like a VERY straight forward job here, my only question is do I need the MB front seal installer tool or not?

[sixto]

Seems like the right size socket will do the trick.

Please find out before I replace the one in the block you sent me

Sixto
93 300SD

[Johnhef]

me too mine leaves its mark in every parking spot so I'm going to have to do it soon.

[Hit Man X]

LOL, I have the part already... cost a whole $6. I'll take it with to Sears next week when I go peep for a socket to drive it home with. I'll toss it in the rental program deal.

When I checked out those PDFs... seems like I need some other odd tool to remove the balancer or am I seeing things?



http://mercedes.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Engine/602_603/03-324.pdf

http://mercedes.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Engine/602_603/03-341.pdf

[dmorrison]

Here's my 2 cents on the job.

I HAVE NOT done a 603 front crank seal, But I have done the 617 and they seem about the same.

I did not have the special tool 103 589 00 33 00. To pull the hub. I used a generic run of the mill puller that I got at Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824

I did buy the seal press, tool # 601 589 03 14 00, only for a 617. I do think a proper sized deep socket will work.

However you will need the fly wheel stop to tighten the front crank main bolt to 320NM of torque. Tool # 601 589 00 33 00. The 617 allows you to place a large bolt or rod in the balancers way and tighten against that. I don't see that the 603 will allow it. Not completely sure about this though.

Mark you balancer before removing, not to align it within 1-2 degrees, but so you know that it will not be 180 degrees out when installed. The small cylinders will align it correctly, I pounded them in after aligning the balancer as accurately as I could.

Here was my post on the 617 job.

Replacing the 300TD front crankshaft seal and other front of block oil leaks

Dave

[Hit Man X]

How much did the seal press run ya?

I figured I would crawl under the car and stick a bar between the flexplate and the block, maybe just unbolt the starter (it's easy on 603s). Worst case, I'll buy the flexplate jammer.

The SD needs it too, but not NEARLY as bad as the SDL. It leaks sooooooo much.

[dmorrison]

About $50 from Sir Tool

Dave

[Hit Man X]

Originally Posted by dmorrison

About $50 from Sir Tool

Dave

That's not bad at all!

[dmorrison]

I lied, it was $54 plus shipping.
For the job consider a couple of things.

As I posted I really don't think the seal press tool is necessary. Use a PVC joint section, or a socket, or a pipe that is just the right size. Your just ensuring the seal is completely pressed into the opening and I think you could easily see that.

If your car has a centering bearing. They make a tool to remove it. Mine slipped out with my fingers. The local dealer mechanic just used 2 flat screwdrivers to pry it out if it is stubborn.

I don't think the diagram showed an upper support like on the 617. The aligning tool for this is Mercedes only. But as I posted, this could also be aligned manually if your careful.

Change your oil after the job. Crud will get into the oil pan.

Replace all seals while your there, vacuum pump, access bolts, etc.

I would consider the flywheel stop. The 320 NM ( 236 Ft/Lbs) of torque would really put a strain on a "jambed" flexplate.

Dave

[Hit Man X]

Wait, so I just use that piece of pipe to tap in the seal?

[dmorrison]

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

Wait, so I just use that piece of pipe to tap in the seal?

Pretty much. All the tool has is a center hole that goes over the crank shaft. Then a flat panel perpendicular to the shaft tube to push the seal against the flat front of the block. So if you can find a PVC tube or pipe that is the diameter of the seal that could push the seal into the opening in the block then once lubricated with oil the seal would push into the opening and seal itself. Then the balancer is pressed onto the crank as it is torqued and then the pulley goes on. So the whole setup is set.
Look at the new seal you have. It should have a cross section like this.


| ]{
| ]{
| ]{
_____///

_____
| ]{ \\\
| ]{
| ]{


The angled flaps are what "seals" the seal against the block. So if the seal is inserted into the opening then it should seal completely.
The flat part of the tool I have pushes the seal against the block,
A key to the diagram above is
|= the flat part of the tool
]= the outer diameter of the seal
{= the block of the engine
______

______ = The center section of the seal

///

\\\ = The flaps you see on the center part of the seal that goes into the block section

So if the tool you choose ( pvc, tube, socket ) covers the entire outer part of the seal and pushes the seal into the block opening, then you'll be OK.

I hope this is a good explanation

See the photo below

Dave

[Hit Man X]

Probably making more complex than it really is Thanks for the scoop. Front main and a resealed IP means my SDL will be leak free

[Johnhef]

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

Probably making more complex than it really is Thanks for the scoop. Front main and a resealed IP means my SDL will be leak free

thats what you think!

[Palangi]

Originally Posted by Johnhef

thats what you think!

Yeppers, when they stop leaking oil, it means there is no oil left in it

[Hit Man X]

Size needed is 2-5/16" (2.3125") or 58.73mm