First time valve adjustment. Need advice - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

muleears · #16 12-28-2009, 03:44 AM

Yes, the cam lobe has been at 1:00pm as DG reccommends. Haven't tried the sexy assistant, she hasn't been available when I was swinging my tool!

layback40 · #17 12-28-2009, 06:03 AM

muleears,
when I got my 84 300d I had to back off some of the valve nuts more than 1 turn. Its best to set them on the loose side of the correct gap. They are good at closing the gap them self over time. If they are way too tight before you adjusted them (no gap), chances are if you set the gap correct, they will close up a little in the first few 100 miles.

muleears · #18 12-28-2009, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layback40

muleears,
when I got my 84 300d I had to back off some of the valve nuts more than 1 turn. Its best to set them on the loose side of the correct gap. They are good at closing the gap them self over time. If they are way too tight before you adjusted them (no gap), chances are if you set the gap correct, they will close up a little in the first few 100 miles.

Thanks Layback, thats good to know.

I will try again today after work using the "wedge the screwdriver" method.

micalk · #19 12-28-2009, 09:02 AM

Don't know if anybody answered this question...

Yes, your valves could be so tight that it takes several turns to set the gap properly. I bought an 82 300sd that hadn't had a valve adjustment for 40,000 miles. Several valve required severe adjustments.

muleears · #20 12-28-2009, 09:19 AM

Am I in danger of dropping the valve into the cylinder if I over adjust? How would I know if I am getting close. I guess there would be excessive clearance?

TchTchr · #21 12-28-2009, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muleears

Am I in danger of dropping the valve into the cylinder if I over adjust? How would I know if I am getting close. I guess there would be excessive clearance?

I have wondered that same thing.

tangofox007 · #22 12-28-2009, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muleears

Am I in danger of dropping the valve into the cylinder if I over adjust? How would I know if I am getting close. I guess there would be excessive clearance?

To increase the clearance, you would be screwing the adjusting nut further onto the valve. Turning the nut in the loosening direction would decrease clearance.

vstech · #23 12-28-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muleears

Am I in danger of dropping the valve into the cylinder if I over adjust? How would I know if I am getting close. I guess there would be excessive clearance?

nope. only in danger of dropping a valve if you under adjust.
I've always been able to hold the spring retainer still with my hands. never needed any Tool for it.

tangofox007 · #24 12-28-2009, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

only in danger of dropping a valve if you under adjust.

What phenomenon encourages an "under adjusted" valve to "drop?"

muleears · #25 12-29-2009, 07:49 AM

Well, I've had some moderate success thanks to you all. I was able to hold the valve still with the large flat head screwdriver as suggested. Once I got it still I was able to set the clearance.

Moving on the to intake valve next door I realized that my feeler gauge didn't have a small enough feeler to set the clearance... Trip to autozone today for a new feeler gauge... Instead of quitting I went ahead and adjusted all the exhaust valves. I'll do the intakes when I get the new feeler.

Thanks to all for the help. I couldn't have done it without you.

layback40 · #26 12-29-2009, 08:10 AM

muleears,
I would have just set them with the thinnest one I had. Better loose than tight. The best way to set them is go/no go that is the gauge combination you have next smaller than the required gap should go through easily & the gauge combination you have next bigger than the required gap should not fit. You normally have to use combination's of gauges to get the required thickness.
When you get it all done, make sure you clean the cover and the head where the gasket goes, if you are reusing the cover gasket, clean it free of oil. If it is cracked through the bottom of the groove it will not normally be reusable. I usually put RTV in the groove and a bead of RTV around the head where it will sit. Push the gasket on the cover, clean any excess RTV off particularly on the inside of the cover & place it back on the head. tighten the cover bolts. Leave over night to allow the RTV to set. Then fingers crossed - no oil leaks!!
I am sure you could have done it with out our help!! No need to be that modest !!!

muleears · #27 12-29-2009, 09:04 AM

The smallest feeler I had was .20x mm I thought that was too much since I needed .1mm

layback40 · #28 12-29-2009, 10:01 AM

You are right. If .2 mm went any where near in, it would rattle. if you had .05 & .15 you could do the go/nogo thing.
many back yard guys dont realize that if say a .1 slides in then all you know is that the gap is at least .1 it could be .15 or even .2

tangofox007 · #29 12-29-2009, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layback40

You are right. If .2 mm went any where near in, it would rattle. if you had .05 & .15 you could do the go/nogo thing.
many back yard guys dont realize that if say a .1 slides in then all you know is that the gap is at least .1 it could be .15 or even .2

From all indications, there are some side yard guys who don't fully understand the concept, either. When a feeler gauge is used properly, there is absolutely no need for "the go/no go thing." Especially when the "no go" is 50% thicker than the specified clearance.

micalk · #30 12-29-2009, 11:39 AM

This may point to the ability of the engine to maintain tune with the variance possible with the go-nogo method, and a testament to the true superiority of our beloved diesels!

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