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#1
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Help with removing bottom bolt holding exhaust manifold on
Title says it all.
I have all the other bolts off....well, some of the nuts actually were stuck and ended up just spinning the double sided threaded rods out of the block, but in any case, the top side of the job is done. Now, there appears to be a single nut that is attached down where the engine mount arm is, but I'm really not sure how best to go about getting this nut off. So before I spend to much more time trying to figure this out, I'd love to hear from someone in-the-know on how I should proceed.
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Chris 1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.) 2018 Honda Civic Sport 2018 Honda CRV LX 2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP) 2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold) 1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired) 1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired) 1976 Porsche 914 (Sold) 1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP) |
#2
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Is this the nut and bolt that sits on the bottom of the support bracket beneath the manifolds?
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#3
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That sounds like the one, Brian. Never removed it before though. Is it just a nut that I'm looking to spin off of there (like the ones on the top) or is it a bolt?
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#4
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From memory, it's a nut and a bolt. Rusted in place since the vehicle was produced and in a very bad area.
Only solution for me was to use a lot of heat with a propane torch in conjunction with Kroil.............my usual solution for big corrosion problems. My best accomplishment..............removing the following nut from one of the stabilizer bar bushings: Tackling a starter, need suggestions (and sympathy) |
#5
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Have torch...have Kroil.
But, from what direction did you come at it? What did you remove first before you went at it? |
#6
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Quote:
Now that I recall............it is a nut on a stud. Coming up from the bottom, I think you can get a decent shot at it. |
#7
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Isn`t that bracket then attached to one of the 2 nuts that hold on the engine mount arm?
I removed the pre EGR manifolds off 3 78/79 300SD and one 79 300TD, every one a PITA. I fought one for 2 hrs w/o heat or Kroil . The last one I removed the nut on the motor mt arm. 17mm and I worked off the manifolds with the bracket attached. Early on, after the air cleaner and U-Tube removed, I reached from the front, over the alternator, and under/behind the turbo with a 17mm wrench. and from the left (standing in front of the car) reached in with an extention, and maybe a swival (U Joint) and a lot of #%$@&% banging knuckles etc..... it came off. not always though. no matter which way you go about it, it is a bugger to remove. should be a stainless sreel nut and bolt. Kroil is the best penetrant to soak it with.
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#8
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It is a nut and washer on a stud that holds the engine mount arm to the block. I used a 17mm socket with a universal and then some combination of extensions. Access was from above with the air cleaner bracket removed and I think the battery heat shield was removed as well.
I had more trouble getting the nut and washer threaded back on than I did getting it off. Just what you wanted to hear, right? |
#9
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Quote:
As it is right now, I've got it all stripped down to just the unbolted exhaust manifold/turbo sitting there. I was thinking that I might have to just start dismantling the turbo in order to get access from above, but it sounds like it's doable leaving it in-place...either from above or below. Seriously hoping the nut isn't too bad to break free. |
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