*headslap* Duh. I can't believe I didn't think of that.

Thanks ...

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Well, I've narrowed it down to the alternator belt or pulley. Or at least I'm almost positive. The sound was definitely coming from that area, so I just took the AC belt off in a brilliant process-of-elimination move. Bad news is, after rolling around in the snow fiddling with the other belts, I ran out of time and ability to use my fingers so I didn't try tightening that belt. It really does not feel loose, but we'll see. I'm wondering if it might be the bearing on the alternator pulley or something in the alternator itself. When I first start up the car (and I'm still pretty excited that it starts on one try in this weather!), the battery light comes on and stays on for about 20-30 seconds after it's started.

Everything being wet and icy is killin' me. On a related note, I've been hunting for houses with two-car garages!

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

If the belt seems tight, 1/2 to 1 inch deflect between the pulleys, you have a bearing issue. Good luck and stay warm.

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83 SD

84 CD

It's definitely about 1/2 inch of movement ... I can try tightening it anyway, just to see, but I'm guessing you're right on the bearing. Is that a fairly easy fix? At a glance it looks pretty simple. Of course, dealer won't be open tomorrow to get the bearing. Boo.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Any alternator repair shop should sell you a bearing if required. My test for too loose a belt or bad belt traction is just to reach down and see if you can turn the little fan blades right behind the alternator pully by hand. If you can the belt is either too loose or has little traction. As for separating the belt from the alternator bearing simply. Just take a bar of household soap. Reach in and rub it on the exposed vee portion of the alternator belt. If the squeel stops it is the belt one way or another. The soap is a massive traction aid or belt dressing.

It seems unrequired to state all my tests and proceedures have to be done with the engine off. Just in case.

I was never happy with estimating belt deflection. It is too subjective. Maybe it was fundementally meant for belts in new condition. Also the average vee belt when replaced will stretch. So I slightly overtighten a new belt when installing it. Always reaching down to the alternator fan a week later to make sure it still has good traction. At the same time I examine the deflection just to make sure the belt is not too tight.

The pulleys may be polished smooth and this can make a belt slip and produce a squeal similar to a dry alternator bearing.

The pulleys can be roughed up with some emery paper with the engine stopped.

The fact the battery light stays on for a while would indicate the belt cannot drive the pulley due to slipping,switching all the lights on should make the light stay on longer due to the loading.

It may be the battery is not holding a good charge though or the alternator is only just putting out enough to extinguish the charge lamp.

In this scenario you would find an hour or so of night time driving and the headlamps would suddenly go dim as the power consumption is more than is being put back in by the alternator.

Barry's method of checking for slippage is what has worked for me. Checking for side movement may be the recommended method, the movement depends on how strong your fingers are. Once the belt has slipped for a while, its best only kept as a spare. The soap trick is a good test,We normally use 'dry lube' or Bees wax.
The bearings are a standard size. We get them from a bearing shop, its cheaper.
If it was me, I would first back the belt right off and try spinning the alt by hand, if there was no evidence of bearing problems (spins free with no noise, no side ways movement or end float), you may be able to just tighten the belt a little & see if the problem goes away.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving