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#1
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Alternator wiring connector - How does it come off?
Feels like a dumb question, but how does the little plastic wiring connector piece come off the back of the alternator? Instinct tells me it should just pull off. But, I'm having a heck of time managing this and I don't want to break the thing apart, in case I'm doing it wrong.
...actually another question about the alternator: I've got the nut off the front, in order to take the pulley off. Should the pulley be very hard to get off? What's a safe way to remove it if it's really tight....w/o damaging it?
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Chris 1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.) 2018 Honda Civic Sport 2018 Honda CRV LX 2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP) 2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold) 1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired) 1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired) 1976 Porsche 914 (Sold) 1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP) |
#2
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Chris,
There is a little wire clip that needs to be moved out of the way. If the plug is still stuck, chances are the the connectors have stuck to the pins. If they have been a bit loose for some time, they arc a bit, this can sort of weld them on. Its a PITA to get it out.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#3
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Yep, pulled the little wire 'holder' out of the way already. So you've confirmed then that it *should* just pull off....at least it should under ideal conditions. Thanks.
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#4
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That little plastic connector can be tough to get out, but it's only held in place by the retaining wire/clip that's obvious. I had to wiggle mine loose with some prying using a small screwdriver.
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#5
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Ditto on the plastic clip. Gentle leverage with a screwdriver might be in order. As for the pulley. A few squirts of PB Blaster and then a bearing seperator should do the trick. Pulled mine off recently without the bearing seperator though. Just squirted with PB, clamped pulley in vice (with wood shims to protect it) and tapped the shaft --- watch that the alt does not drop to the floor if you do it this way. Was pretty careful with the pressure on the pulley with vice. Didn't want to distort the shape. Good luck
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John Schroader bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D "I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin "You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln |
#6
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My car has a post style connector now. I upgraded my alternator last June to an 80A from a Saab.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#7
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pawoSD:
That's what I'm doing too. But I thought that the 80A still used the spade lugs. I thought that it wasn't until you got above 80A that they started using the posts. |
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