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  #16  
Old 01-03-2010, 10:23 PM
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Location: South Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Steve,
Preheating is important to make the oil burn faster when it gets into the motor and so reduce the amount of varnish getting to the rings. I agree that one would expect the oil to be heated as it passes through the injectors, however a 10 c increase in temp doubles the speed and intensity of burning. Heating the injector lines is a worthwhile modification.Small changes can make a lot of difference especially when the motor is cold. This is supported by the trial work I have seen done. Replacing with a higher temp thermostat can also help. How much blow-by does your motor have?
I made that last post b4 reading this one.
I would love to learn more from the trial work you have seen done. I was relatively convinced by my own experiment but as stated i am no engineer or scientist. My blow by is ok i guess dont really know what it should be like except in comparison to other cars i have had.
My Merc gets up to temp really really quick never have i had a car that does this have checked that the temp gauge is accurate.

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Steve

1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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  #17  
Old 01-17-2010, 11:03 PM
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Well i have pulled the IP off and injectors out.

All looks good, no abnormal carbon deposits.

The Glow plugs had light sooty carbon that wipped off easy with my finger.

I know she has only done 15,000kms on oil but this look coupled with my oil reports all is looking sweet.
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Peace and Blessings to you and yours

Steve

1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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  #18  
Old 09-07-2010, 10:25 PM
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Location: South Oz
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Well she has been back together for near 5000kms and i am not real happy.

She starts rough for the first 20 secs before lowering rpm and running smooth.
It blows more smoke than before grey white when cold and black when hot.

I can only guess the donk is lower on compression than ideal and the injectors now popping higher pressure means more fuel in.

But for the leaks on the IP i cant help but feel $3k and not really better off is a waste of money.

But she goes and the starting does not seem to change so may just go back to putting oil in her tank.
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Peace and Blessings to you and yours

Steve

1987 /88 300D 178K & Very tidy
WVO RUG Diesel Blend OEM fuel heater thermostat by passed
1991 Nissan Patrol TD42
350k & very rough
WVO RUG Blend return line to cav 296 filter

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  #19  
Old 09-08-2010, 01:09 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88300D View Post
Well she has been back together for near 5000kms and i am not real happy.

She starts rough for the first 20 secs before lowering rpm and running smooth.
It blows more smoke than before grey white when cold and black when hot.

I can only guess the donk is lower on compression than ideal and the injectors now popping higher pressure means more fuel in.

But for the leaks on the IP i cant help but feel $3k and not really better off is a waste of money.

But she goes and the starting does not seem to change so may just go back to putting oil in her tank.
It could be you have some sticking Piston Rings. I do not know what is available in your area but I am sure there must be some favorite that they use.
Marvel MM oil results sticky rings
Origional thread also has + response
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=258757&highlight=Marvel

I did the Marvel Mystery Oil soak on my Volvo that had Gray Hazy smoke. I was very skeptical that it would work but it was cheap and safe to do and it did work.
I put 1/4 cup through each Glow Plug Hole and soaked 7 days and rotated the Engine and repeated it for another three days.
Changed the Oil and took it for a hard fast drive. It took about 3 days and the smoke cleared up.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #20  
Old 09-08-2010, 01:18 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
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Some members have claimed switching to Synthetic Motor Oil freed up their Rings but it took 200-300 miles of driving to get the effect.

In our DIY Section there is instructions on changing the Delivery Valve O-rings on the Fuel Injection Pump if that is where you are leaking. The only special tool needed is the Socket to remov and install the Delivery Valve Holder and a Torque Wrench that goes low enough as there is not so much torque on them.
DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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