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  #1  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:53 PM
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82 300d tach fix

Hey everyone. I just tried this idea on fixing my tach which was not working most of the time. The idea worked great and I'd like to share with everyone here. What I did was this. Unscrew and remove the tach control thing on the driver inside fender. It's got 6 pins that are used. Take little bits of tin foil "about 1/4 inch squares", roll them up and push one rolled up bit in each hole that a pin will go in. Re-install the thing and ta-da. The tach works great!! Doesn't get any easier then that.
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2010, 11:53 PM
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You could also disassemble the socket, and squeeze the connector "sockets" slightly, increasing their contact with the amplifier's pins. The sockets are slotted and smaller in diameter than the pins of the amplifier to create a good connection, over time because of the slots they expand (thus loose).
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300cdman View Post
Hey everyone. I just tried this idea on fixing my tach which was not working most of the time. The idea worked great and I'd like to share with everyone here. What I did was this. Unscrew and remove the tach control thing on the driver inside fender. It's got 6 pins that are used. Take little bits of tin foil "about 1/4 inch squares", roll them up and push one rolled up bit in each hole that a pin will go in. Re-install the thing and ta-da. The tach works great!! Doesn't get any easier then that.
I hate to burst your bubble, but you're just doing a variation of a trick that's been used for nearly 30 years with the same result. It'll fail in a little while.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:18 AM
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I did that but only lasted 2 days.
The main problem is,the wire from the sender on crankshaft.Is old and not long enough.As the vehicle ages the insulation shrinks.What I did was make sure there was slack in that wire going to socket where the Amp screws onto.What happens is the socket pulls away from the amp.
So I used a little super glue gel pulled socket down a little,few drops super glue on socket base.And pushed socket up and held it with channel locks 5 mins.
Now when you screw amp back on,the socket won't be pushed down.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:39 AM
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The foil use is also an old blown fuse temp repair. Just wrap a blown fuse in foil & put it in, gets you going until you can get a replacement. Need to be careful as it takes a fair few amps to blow it. A bit like regular copper wire in a house hold fuse box!! Great if you are welding!!
Now I bet every one will leave a post that its dangerous. I think if it gets you off the side of the road & home its ok.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:01 AM
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300CDMan,

Good deal with your fix, but as stated it might be short lasted. Until it goes south you might look for a replacement trash can amp. That was what was bad on mine. Been working fine since replacem't.
So how is your obdometer, instrument lights, HVAC, and other things working, as you will have more challenges coming up...
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:33 PM
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I have done only two and in both I found that there were cold solder joints on the board. The closing of the socket pushes the board up for a while till it loses contact on the board again. The biggest problem is the time it takes to remove the silicone or rubber like sealer that protects the board. Two hours to clean and ten minutes to fix. I thought that I would be smart and use paint remover to get the stuff off and it dissolved the components on the board, what a bummer. I now drink beer and use a dental pick to remove the stuff carefully.

Robert
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Old 01-03-2010, 02:03 PM
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Contact Techguy, he has what you need.

OM617A Tach Amp

Charlie
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Old 01-03-2010, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Contact Techguy, he has what you need.

OM617A Tach Amp

Charlie
THAT is some excellent information. Not only the thread indicated, but the thread inside that one.
Its too cold to work outside right now ( 17 degrees F), but this is definitely on the "ToDo" list.

Thanks!!!
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