how to bleed injectors (no start)
 

I recently replaced the faulty glow plugs on my 83 300D. The same day i also adjusted the valves hoping that it would help my no start problem.
The glow plugs all tested out good on the bench and the relay is sending strong voltage to them all. I am still not getting the light on the dash, but i figure that may be a bulb or wire somewhere.
Anyway, I trimmed down the vaccumn system with a new main hose, the green (dashpot i believe) going to the white plastic on the injection pump, and the other part of that tee going to the transmission. I have already completely removed the egr system and the associated hardware.
When i was done with the glow plugs I cracked teh lines at the injectors to crank the car over and get the air out of the system. The rear two injectors started pouring fuel pretty quickly, and yesterday the middle one was too.
Today i came back and tried to bleed them some more but the rear two are the only ones that will produce fuel at the lines. The front three will absolutely not.
Is there a way to check if fuel is being pumped to them, or if the line is clogged without covering my engine in diesel?
Thanks for any help
Andrew

Maybe there was some fuel in the jumper lines and worked it's to the last injectors in line.
If you removed the hard lines when you did the valve adjustment, it's gonna take a while to get fuel to all the injectors.
Not sure about the gp dash light, hopefully it's just a burnt out bulb.

i did remove them completely when i did the gp's.
I am going to keep trying, kill this battery, then go back inside where it is warm.
:-)

loosen the lines a bit more, wiggle them to break the seal and crank with the pedal to the floor.

I also just remembered, the diesel that is in the car was put in last summer........
The temperature down here has gotten to the mid 20's at night and may be 50 during the day. Is that cold enough to cause summer diesel to gel up and cause this bad of problems? I did put in a diesel additive i picked up at work before it got cold, and the car has started on it before. I am not sure which additive it was though.
Andrew

^ I don't think so.

Tighten all the lines at the IP. I fasten them on all injectors, but one or two turns from tight. Crank until you see bubbles at the tops of all the injectors. Crank them down tight. Start the car.

If that's not happening either something is wrong with (1) your IP (2) your glow plugs or (3) your compression/timing.

Rick

i went out and worked the hand pump for about 20 minutes, cracking the banjo on the filter housing a few times. I opened up the lines and cranked the car and she felt like she was trying to start on two cylinders. I closed them all up and tried it again......... successfully killed my battery just as the car started shaking and vibrating from the engine about to fire.
:-( have to wait til the morning to try again when my battery is charged.
Andrew

The primer pump will get fuel TO the injection pump, not THROUGH it, you've got to crank the engine to use the IP to get fuel to the injectors.

If the motor is starting to jump around a bit & fire on 1 or 2 its not far off starting. You are ding the right thing re-charging the battery over night/between tries.
I hope your next post will be to tell us that its up & running.

Well, it was not easy and it took about 5 tries, but she finally fired up. I had to hold the throttle for about a full minute at about 1/4, then she smoothed out and would idle on her own. She is way smoother than before too. Once warmed up that is. When shes cold........... it would be a good back massager. lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOp0-ROWImI
I am so incredibly happy right now. i just have to fix the radiator, and then i can take it for a test drive. I dont think the neighbors will mind too much.
Thanks for all the help
Andrew

Sorry this post is late. Glad the car started. To help bleed the air out of the injectors (and the complete system), you can also remove the last injector's return line (the plug) while you crank.

Whoo Hoo!