Ugh this is just a mess. I should have left well enough alone.

I need to crawl underneath of my car, but there is just so much snowy crap.

I wish I lived in SoCal. Adjusting the bowden cable does very little. I'm just going to let it be until it warms up.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

You haven't done thing to it, it seems it has never operated like it should.

Heres what I think will happen if you keep adjusting the bowden cable, its just going to rev up to a higher RPM and stay there.

Although adjusting the modulator will probably allow you to feel each shift like you should.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

The modulator is responsible for the firmness of the shifting. The bowden cable is responsible for how late or early it shifts.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

So then why would my car just keep revving around 2500 rpm until I get into 4th?

I feel like there is a third item that I am missing.

The snow is also not helping with anything right now. I need to find a dry road to test this on.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

Im not sure why it does that, im not that familar with the 1985 tranny. Could be a torque converter issue.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

I'm not sure either. Sadly the 722.3 trans info on this forum is very vague.

I'm going to have to put this off. Right now I'm back at where I was before, no obvious shifts and the RPMs staying at 2600rpm on full throttle.

This is such a weird vehicle.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

I had to fiddle around with mine (a lot) before I finally "got it right".

You should definitely be able to "feel" all the shifts. If not, then something is wrong. There are some good threads on adjustment (albeit very long and confusing). It really is trial and error as no 2 cars are the same.

I can tell you this... Be sure that the vacuum system is right before adjusting anything in regards to vacuum or you will regret it later.

When I got my car, the Bowden cable was too loose and I did not feel the 1/2 and barely caught the 2/3. The 3/4 was fine. I did quite a bit of driving around back roads, stopping and starting, re-adjusting, etc...

Once I got the cable and vacuum adjustments right, I found out that I had the 2/3 flare. I put the K1 kit in there and now it shifts as it should.

Many thanks again to the forum members that helped me with it. You know who you are.

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AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)

I've seen a lot of your posts previously and I was just about to send you a PM

Out of mere curiosity is my problem similar to yours? The video I made should give you a good idea of what is going on.

My vacuum system is fortunately 100% functional with no leaks as far as I can tell. For kicks I enabled the EGR and ARV systems to see if the increase in available vacuum would do something. It didn't change anything which I figured would have been the case.

It looks like I have a long and winding road ahead of me to solve this. If I leave the system operating like it has been will I be doing any damage to the tranny?

If it is of any consolation when I had my vacuum leak in my passenger door locks the car would shift with countable shifts at certain RPMs.

This leads me to believe it is a vacuum issue.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

Ok, so y'all are telling me that "blue flying saucer" is not the technical term???
you adjust firmness of shift with the vac modulator on back of injection pump from what I understand, and usually stay away from tranny modulator. Also, the '85 tranny isn't THAT much different.....
Hopefully I can tell more on laptop when I get home than on this teeny iPhone...

*edit*
again, there is nothing wrong with a smooth non-jolting shift. Sometimes on my '85 I don't feel the shifts at all, which is a benefit from the famous blue flying saucer.

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Wasn't this the VCV (vacuum control valve) instead? Good point on checking that part too!

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

Yes, "Vacuum Control Valve"!! I knew modulator wasn't correct, but I figured someone would chime in with correct "terminology".
Very important of course!!

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Jimbo, I presume you've seen my wonderful video on the previous page. Is your vehicle similar to what I am seeing?

I'm just worried that these crazy smooths shifts are masking problems.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

It's really hard to tell anything from the video since there isn't a clear shot of both tach and speedo at the same time and we don't know what your foot is doing on the accelerator.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I need a better camera. I'll see if I can find one. Maybe my digital camera will yield better results.

Also I am flooring it. The pedal will not go down any further.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

if the pedal is on the floor and its been like this for years and not a new thing _ adjusting the cable will do nothing ====

one of the valves is stuck MY guess, the governor < it controls at what speed it shifts Based on pressure from the Modulators adjustment and movement ,

adjusting the boden cable did nothing - the cable also controls pressure sooo it COULD also be in the control for the boden cable < what is known in an american car as the downshift control valve ( passing gear ) also

i would do a control pressure test on the trans - their is a spec for what and how much in each and every gear location including neutral

more than likely one of the valves that brings the pressue up so the car will advance to a higher RPM before shifting ( the automatic part of the unit ) is probly stuck or has a broken spring causing it to be in the wrong position and stoping the unit from doing the job the gas pedal is telling it to do -- i might have all of that info if you cant find it on this site - jz