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  #16  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:16 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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OK, the bearings look good and seem to roll smoothly ... but there's a little scoring on the side of the race (not the area that the bearings roll on). I didn't see any noticeable metal traces in the dirty grease. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. Everything else .. cage, rollers, inside of races ... looks good.


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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
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  #17  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:40 PM
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Looks like you have done a good job of cleaning. I wouldnt worry about a few scuff marks on the sides, maybe they were run loose & chattered a bit at some time in the past. Make sure you work the grease well into the bearings, all in & around the cage. Unlike many I like to put a bit of extra grease in the hub over the recommended amount, but thats just me.
When you put it back together make sure you initially over tighten it a little & then back it off. Re check it after you have taken it for a short drive to settle the bearings in.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
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  #18  
Old 01-05-2010, 10:58 PM
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*sigh* ... I used a cylindrical unidentified item to knock the wheel seal in place, and it left very subtle indentations around the metal part of the seal. The seating is perfectly even and the rubber part is unaffected. Tear it out and put in another one? It's pretty mild ... but ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #19  
Old 01-05-2010, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
*sigh* ... I used a cylindrical unidentified item to knock the wheel seal in place, and it left very subtle indentations around the metal part of the seal. The seating is perfectly even and the rubber part is unaffected. Tear it out and put in another one? It's pretty mild ... but ...
I'm just gonna answer my own question ... I can't deal with the rumpled wheel seal. It's definitely boogered on one side. So I just ordered two more wheel seal.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #20  
Old 01-06-2010, 12:22 AM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybob View Post
Originally Posted by Billybob
Place the premeasured amount of grease in a large cheap/thin ziplock bag, and a thoroughly cleaned bearing, zip the bag shut, work the grease into the bearing from outside of the bag with your hands, remove newly greased bearing taking care to wipe excess grease off into the bag, reclose bag and using a straightedge or the edge of a table/bench work the remaining grease into a corner of the bag, snip a small piece of the bag corner off and squeeze the balance of the premeasured grease into the bearing cup! No lost grease, completely packed bearing and clean hands!
Might work but I prefer the palm method and watching the grease emerge the other side.

Clean hands? Are you really a member of this forum???
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1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html
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  #21  
Old 01-06-2010, 12:35 AM
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That seal should be a very standard sized seal, you should be able to get it over the counter at a bearing place. Normally the size is shown on it. It should be quite cheap.

Charles,
Im with you on the grease thing. There is nothing like the feel of grease oozzing between your fingers. You get to try & scrape the grease out from under your finger nails after.
We use moly based grease universally here. 1 grade for everything. I dont care what is recommended, it gets moly !!
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #22  
Old 01-06-2010, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr from Texas View Post
Might work but I prefer the palm method and watching the grease emerge the other side.

Clean hands? Are you really a member of this forum???
By choice I only work about 20 hours a week now, but when I do vehicle owners pay me 1/2 of the $120 an hour labor rate to complete a task like this, to get it done correctly, and to do so efficiently! Using the correct amount of grease as specified by the engineers who've designed these cars ensures that the bearing operates correctly and does not fail prematurely. Failures due to sloppy workmanship or incorrect procedures ultimately cost money to remedy and cost customer confidence.

With regard to clean hands, no one pays me to waste time cleaning grease off my hands before I use them to touch other parts of their vehicles to complete other aspects of tasks I’m getting paid to accomplish.

The German gentleman whose shop I work with has 50 years experience and understands the value of time, efficiency, and quality. In addition to the everyday vehicles such as 108/109/115/116/123/124/126/140/129/201/210/211 chassis cars, I get the opportunity to work on restorations of vehicles such as couple 190 SL’s, 112 Cabriolet, a 61 300d Adenauer, and a recent $150,000 complete ground up restoration of a 66 600 4-Door Pullman. So I’ve had a chance to learn a few things along the way, but I appreciate your humor!

Last edited by Billybob; 01-06-2010 at 01:27 AM.
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  #23  
Old 01-06-2010, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
We use moly based grease universally here. 1 grade for everything. I dont care what is recommended, it gets moly !!
Folks who do care don't use moly grease on roller bearings.
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  #24  
Old 01-06-2010, 01:50 AM
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When I bought my replacement bearings from Phil, I asked about bearing grease. He said they had stopped carrying it (too messy) and, if I recall correctly, suggested the NAPA grease.

As for that seal, you are right, you do want to replace it. I did the same thing when installing mine -- caved it in so bad it was rubbing on the bearing. Can't recall if I used a flat board or stupidly used something too small to seat it. I ended up using a 1/2"-to-2" galvanized pipe adapter to seat the new one because it was large enough to press on only the outside edge. Replacement seated without any denting or caving in.
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  #25  
Old 01-06-2010, 04:20 AM
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tango,
Do you have a sound reason for not using moly with roller bearings?

My decision to use it is partly based on advice of published work of V.M. Faires formally of the U. S. Naval Postgraduate School. I believe you have some sort of past association with the U.S. Navy, maybe you have some more recent information.

I also own the equipment that it is used in and so its my money that I make choices about.

Maybe you could provide some background to your one liners.
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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #26  
Old 01-06-2010, 08:39 AM
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I like NAPA,I'm getting new rotors.Whats nice is theirs are better than stock,and have bearings already pressed in for fronts.
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  #27  
Old 01-06-2010, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
I'm just gonna answer my own question ... I can't deal with the rumpled wheel seal. It's definitely boogered on one side. So I just ordered two more wheel seal.
You beat me to it. They're cheap enough why mess around with it. I'm curious as to what your unidentified cylindrical object was?

Back when I used to have the time and maintained our light duty fleet trucks (LOF, brakes, etc. on pickups, minivans, couple cars) I used the NAPA products and never had any issues with them.
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  #28  
Old 01-06-2010, 10:59 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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Can't really see the damage well enough in the picture, but I wouldn't want to risk the possibility of locking up a front wheel six months from now when you aren't thinking about it. As said above, you should be able to find a seal locally at a bearing supply house.

Rick
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  #29  
Old 01-06-2010, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
tango,
Do you have a sound reason for not using moly with roller bearings?
Molybdenum disulfide grease is well suited for low speed, high load, low tolerance applications where sliding or fretting is involved. The moly additive is a solid which can act as an abrasive in tight tolerance applications. It can also interfere with the circulation of grease in roller bearings. This results in the rollers going dry and sliding instead of rolling.

Some lubricant manufacturers (ie: Castrol and McLube) specifically recommend against the use of their moly grease in wheel bearings.

Last edited by tangofox007; 01-06-2010 at 11:36 AM.
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  #30  
Old 01-11-2010, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tombance View Post
I have a slightly loose front bearing in my W124 that I want to tighten up (Dial guage with magnetic base is on order!) so if you write this up I'll be watching eagerly.
http://savingchase.com/diy-pages/w124-wheel-bearing-mania/
Here is my highly unprofessional writeup with photos. I think I covered most of the bases. It's hard to remember to take pictures as you go along. Makes me really appreciate the effort guys here have put it on making DIY pages!

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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