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  #1  
Old 01-05-2010, 07:36 PM
Freybird's Avatar
1995 E300D 124
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 18
Unhappy '87 300DT running but won't move

New battery, fuel shut off module, fresh oil and diesel plus a fluid inspection... my car is running again after 2 years under a tree in my front yard!
But the bad news is that some part of the parking brake is engaged. (with the calipers removed, still no go) Niether rear wheel spins.

The brake pedal was released from inside the car, and I can see/feel the cables slack from underneath. (1st pic)

I've removed the bolt holding the cable's bracket to the hub/carrier and the bracket will pivot (drivers side only was attempted), but how is the cable removed? (2nd pic) Should I be able to pull the cable out with that single bolt removed?

I'm wondering if I should cut the cable as close to the hub as possible and replace. Assumming its the cable that's bound, and bound completely at the hub end.
Any info would be helpful,
Thanks in advance,

Tom
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'87 300DT running but won't move-photo1.jpg   '87 300DT running but won't move-photo2.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-05-2010, 07:59 PM
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Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
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The parking brake shoes may be rusted to their drums. They may release if you tap the drums with a hammer. If you could remove the rear disks (& drums) it would fix the problem.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2010, 08:27 PM
Freybird's Avatar
1995 E300D 124
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 18
Thanks layback. With the caliper removed, I hit the drum portion with a metal dead blow hammer with light and moderate force while applying rotating force. I thought perhaps the shoe's would be jarred back in place.
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2010, 08:44 PM
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Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
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Trying to get drown the shoes with water may soften the stuff that is causing the binding too. I did it once by squirting water through the bolt holes. Using oil causes a mess to clean later
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #5  
Old 01-05-2010, 08:52 PM
Freybird's Avatar
1995 E300D 124
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 18
Hmmmm Good idea! I think something like isopropanol may work as well. Currently 23degrees here
Thanks again!
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2010, 09:42 PM
layback40's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
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Maybe warming the drum a little would help
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #7  
Old 01-07-2010, 03:20 PM
Freybird's Avatar
1995 E300D 124
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 18
Thanks again Layback! I'll use a torch. I'll also try to get behind the bracket with a prybar. My fingers are crossed.
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