So if you are removing the air filter housing from your car and you happen to attach the hose from the valve cover to the tube coming from the side of the turbo it will shut down the motor. Apparently a bad idea. So the question then is what is the tube next to the turbo and what is the best way to deal with the different tubes and hose. I thought about removing the center piece from the air cleaner housing that they all attach to, but it appears to really like being attached to the housing.

Did get my glow plugs, water pump and thermostat replaced.

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1974 450SL White/Navy Blue

1983 300SD White/Parchment, VDO Boost Guage, 215/60R15 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Positions on 15X7 15 Hole Wheels, Straight Piped, 298K?

2004 Ford Excursion XLT 4X4, 5.4L V8, 285/65R16 BFG AT KO

Yes it is a bad thing to do. You can possibly blow out a seal.

The tube your referring to is to drain the oil collected from the oil separator built into the air box.



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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Post# 30 and 32 of this thread.

Crankcase ventilation/Oil Separator Mod
Crankcase ventilation/Oil Separator Mod






Have a great day.

Thank you gents. So if I "T" the two together but vent it back into the intake, preturbo, would this be safe and effective? It appears that this is the same function as the piece in the original filter housing.

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1974 450SL White/Navy Blue

1983 300SD White/Parchment, VDO Boost Guage, 215/60R15 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Positions on 15X7 15 Hole Wheels, Straight Piped, 298K?

2004 Ford Excursion XLT 4X4, 5.4L V8, 285/65R16 BFG AT KO

Run away diesel, why does it happen?
Run away diesel, why does it happen?

Engine blow-by test, Blow a bag of blow-by
Engine blow-by test, Blow a bag of blow-by

Blow-By curioisty questions
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/188320-blow-curioisty-questions-2.html#post1798266

I did this mod for several reasons and it is one of the best things I have done with this car, along with removing the non-functioning cruise control. It has quieted down the racket from under the hood, made the engine much more accessable, and for reasons I don't understand, has caused the engine to leak MUCH less oil.

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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

So for now I cut the oil seperator out of an old air cleaner housing and reconnected it in the original factory setup. I connected a hose to the outlet pipe and am venting it to the atmosphere for now. Appears to be running well enough. All I have to do now is get all of the air out of the cooling system. Then it is off to the mulifunction switch. My wipers seem to have a mind of their own.

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1974 450SL White/Navy Blue

1983 300SD White/Parchment, VDO Boost Guage, 215/60R15 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Positions on 15X7 15 Hole Wheels, Straight Piped, 298K?

2004 Ford Excursion XLT 4X4, 5.4L V8, 285/65R16 BFG AT KO

It's funny that using an air line filter/separator is mentioned, since that's exactly what this Steeda Motorsports part is:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-3710/?rtype=10
FWIW, catch cans and various other types of separators are a needed item on drag race built engines, you don't want your shiny $10k engine slobbering oil all over itself. The most common version is plumbed into the exhaust, I do mine so I have a 1/2" tube running into the center of the header collector, right where the four pipes merge on the V8 headers. I also run the tube tight along one of the runners to pre-heat the charge, so it burns cleanly.

Looks like I will be dragging her back into the garage again. My temperature is all over the place and it is running closer to 100 than 80 as it used to. The lower radiator hose is cold to the touch at operating temp, even after driving it home from work (16 miles). The temperature outside is in the mid twenties in the morning and the forties during the day so I need to get this straight before things warm up any more. I am figuring the new thermostat is no good so I will have to drain it and change it out. Guess I should have tested it before I put it in. Just got most of the air out of it too.

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1974 450SL White/Navy Blue

1983 300SD White/Parchment, VDO Boost Guage, 215/60R15 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Positions on 15X7 15 Hole Wheels, Straight Piped, 298K?

2004 Ford Excursion XLT 4X4, 5.4L V8, 285/65R16 BFG AT KO

That is a normal situation. I drove my 300 about twenty miles non-stop yesterday in temps. in the low thirties, and when I returned, the cold water return from the radiator was still cold. The thermostat should be installed arrow up. Also, don't rule out the idea that there may still be some air in your system.

Kindly read and understand the following post prior to posting again on this forum.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=127342